I was working on the car a bit today. I thought I had a coolant leak but nothing came out today....
Spending time cleaning and making sure things are "right" to drive a bit. I ran into a couple of things that I wanted to run by you guys:
1) Outer CV boot seems to have lost its clamp on the big end - giving a nice grease mess. Any tips to share on replacement?
2) PS front LCA will no longer take grease. I replaced the nipple on it and no dice. I am thinking of just doing both LCAs and enjoying the refreshed suspension. I was under the car starting to clean them and thought I might as well defer that until I decide.
3) Temp gauge is making the car look cooler than it is. I had tstat open (180 degree aftermarket stat) and fan kick on and the temp gauge never registered above 160... This seems to be new. The heat works awesome!!!
Provided no leaks will prolly road test again this week and get it up to the quarter wash. So much remains to do, but it is time to drive. I have a show at GM on the 24th that I have to be ready to attend.
Once the Outer CV tosses out the grease, it is basically a time bomb(especially under the torque you are making) I checked AutoZone , with your specs it'll hit you $60 +$10 core w/Lifetime Warranty. Beats a tow bill....LoL Don't wait till you hear the "Click of Death"
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This is interesting, the site says 30mm nuts. Mine has 29mm. This cv boot clamp departure seems to have happened after I replaced the wheel bearing 12 months before the teardown. Here is a dumb question. Does the nut size drive the spline size or vise versa? The reason I ask is the new wheel bearing went on very easily and I am starting to suspect I have a problem there...
You sir have a remanufactured cv axle. They just jumble what ever parts they can and throw them togeather. I had that issue and I returned 4 axles because they were selling me remans with smaller diameter axles when I wanted manual axles that were thicker. I took a micrometer with. I ended up ordering GM axles for $120 a side. I couldn't use remans due to making custom hybrid axles for my swap. Any other stock car would never notice a difference. Also they should slide in the hub easily if they are clean.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Sounds like she is on her way!
http://www.autotalk.com/pictures/data/1536/medium/2005_Chevrolet_Cavalier_Xtreme_002_autotalk_com_.jpg
My axle nut is a 30mm and I do have NEW axles both sides for sunny yet to be done.I did buy me slide hammer kit about a year ago and will do my axles once I finish the rear end work planned this summer at some point.At least you can procede with yours as I am playing catch up from working on my nephews car for two months.
Advance carries brand new axles and they will run you about $60 each with no core. You can repair that axle if you have the special pliers for re- clamping the axle boot.
Now the fun part on risk vs reward and decision support. I am thinking replace the whole thing to get the right size in there will take the following parts:
Replace Axle - roughly $86 plus tax
1) reman axle - $69
2) axle seal - might as well - $10 - can u just use a socket to drive it in?
3) 30 mm deep socket - $6
Replace the band only - $46 plus tax
1) band kit - $16
2) band tool - $30
Keep in mind this band has been off for a couple of years, but not many miles. No clicking noises. What do you guys think?
Well no noise it good.Not leaking for a long time good there as well.Idk since I am going new as I have said parts and no leaks either or noise.Might be worth the time to refresh things if your wallet can handle it and have that covered.
You can use a socket to drive it in but I believe it will have to be bigger than a 30mm. I lke using either a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet extension and just work it in a little at a time so it goes in straight. Also there are 2 different style clamps that are used in cv axles. One is reusable; the other is not and they use different style pliers to secure them. If you go that route make sure you get the right tool for the clamp.
The Grease that has been lost in the CV joint has to be replaced when repairing the boot. If you don't get enough in there it isn't going to properly lubricate the cage & balls. I tried to do a repair like that many years ago in my younger daze on a K-Car. I put too much grease back in and didn't know it. Was so proud of my repair till I went for a spin and the excess grease blew out the replaced boot all over again. That was the last time I ever clowned around with CV Joints. I'd recommend getting an Axle & Lifetime Warranty and let the folks at the store eat the bill if you ever have problems again.
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Paul,
Let me check with Tom after the holiday weekend and see if we've got some of what you need in our "vast" inventory of parts. As Orlen and Kevin did for me, maybe we can save you some "bones" and get you on the road a bit soon/.
Walt
All I did was buy 3 or 4 inch hose clamps. Problem solved. I did this 2 years ago and tightened them with a ratchet.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Rob-
I am now thinking I will take your approach to fix it for now and do my lca and axle at the same time on the DS when I get the parts together. It all breaks and it all should all be replaced, but I can't swing paying for it all right now.
So may projects, so little time...
Crap. Boot itself is split. Mystery coolant leak still here. Finished balance of cleaning and reassembly. Fixed ps belt squeal and hood gap. Done for today.
By some prothane bushings for the control arms. They are very good. I also used zero lash end links for my sway bars. The bushings are I live $60 for the front control arms and sway bars. Just look at energy suspension. Prothane ones are stiffer.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Yep the Prothane Bushings are good!! Put a set on the Ranger Sway Bar. (Sway Bar on Twin I Beam Front Suspension?!?!) they really tightened things up!! Nice prices too!!
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/
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Paul it sounds like you need to pressure test your cooling system. If you don't have the tool you can rent it at advance auto parts. See if you can pressurize it to 15 psi. If you can't then you have a good sized leak. If it can sustain a decent amount of pressure you should be able to find your mystery leak.
I have Camaro Superfest this weekend. I went road racing at Waterford Hills with my Camaro and went to the COPO Build Facility in Oxford. I am coming out of my slump.
Thanks for hanging with me - I will get this all sorted out.
