Orlen Brown wrote:Very nice catch Bill!!
Surprising it doesn't have the Turbo, but that'll make life a lot less complicated as you go about the repairs/restro.
Just curious when you replaced the hydraulic compensator and cam follower if you pulled the cam carrier or used the special tool.
Factory recommends pulling the head and replacing the head gasket and head bolts if cam carrier is removed.
Legend has it these engines are zero tolerance, although I've never read anything to testify to that in the Factory Manuals.
Thanks for the comments guys,
Orlen I used the special Kent Moore spring compressor tool to replace the cam follower and hydraulic compensator. I originally bought head bolts and thought I would have to take off the cam carrier which I wasn't too enthused about disturbing the head gasket which had been replace 50K ago before I bought the car. Which by the way, the car came with $6,600 dollars worth of receipts to showing its history of care of maintenance. Anyway, on a whim, I did an ebay search for the kent moore tool number found the lever part of the spring compressor for $17 with shipping which I figured my dad and I could make, but knew that even though the tool would probably used only once, it was much more appealing since we didn't have to engineer the tool before making it, so I sprung and bought it. Then I copied a ton of picts of the fixture base and my dad made that part to fit the car with having to take off the alternator because at that time, I didn't know how laborious that task was. I sure am glad I spent the money to buy the kent moore spring compressor, rather than have to take off the cam carrier. It was well worth the redirected route by saving time and not disturbing the replaced head gasket work done which was not leaking. I also bought a well used timing belt tension gauge off of ebay for $17 with shipping. So even though I have $35 invested in tools I think I will probably only use once in my lifetime, I figure that's about the same investment as having a mechanic do the job, but now I own the tools and like being in control of my own destiny. Besides, I figure this way I can help out a friend or be able to redo the job again if need be some day. A technical note. I had a difficult time getting the compensator out of the hole, so dad made a tool to help with that. He bent a piece of metal into a 90 degree "L" shape, then cut a big slot in the end that slides under the bulb / head of the compensator so that the compensator could be lifted up out of the bore hole much easier with more leverage and grip. It worked super slick. I love working my dad.....he is the best tool in this boys toy box. My dad is 64 and I am 43. Working with him is a great way to spend my Saturdays.
Anyway, I would recommend investing the kent moore spring compressor tools if they can be purchased for the same or cheaper price than a mechanics time. The job takes time and patience to get the compensator out and get the button the cam follower rides in all aligned properly, but I did the job in a few hours and was so glad I avoided the issue of antifreeze mess everywhere and the cost of a head gasket and then there is the task of tearing the end of the motor all apart to take off the timing belt which I would avoid if I had the choice. Now I just replaced the timing belt 3 weeks ago and the water pump to since that job only cost me $28 for the timing belt, water pump, new water pump bolts and power steering fluid. Definitely buy the spring compressor tools to avoid the other tear down hassles and maintenance costs unless they are planned in your future anyway. Just my opinion and insight.
As for the big dent. I will have to post picts how that got smoothed out soon. Dad and I didn't have to put a single hole in the car or do any welding to get it to the point it will only take a moderate skimming of putty, but considering it was a crater, I know we did a surprisingly super job of moving the metal back into place and getting the door jam to go back into place too. I bought a $100 harbor freight stud gun which helped at the end of the repair, but we moved most of the metal into place with a long digging iron for leverage.
The cars have no rot in the bottom. The sunbird has the most rot of the 3, but is the nicest in the bottom. The bird has a spot of cancer around the wheel about 4" long on the drivers side by the big dent. The drivers door bottom is rotted out because when the water ran inside the door, it could not get out the drain holes due to some extra rust coating sprayed in it years ago which dried up, cracked in the middle to have the water lay in the crack and rot the door bottom because it could not escape. The skin is the best of the 3 cars. The converts have sweet bottoms and not rot at all. They just have super creased driver door skin lower halves and large dents around the cars. The white Z, appears to have sat the longest in a damp area with flaky rust on tubing and tubing fittings which makes me cringe thinking of how the brake job is going to probably turn into a task of replacing metal brake lines and fuel lines too. Some day I would like that car to be a triple black car with silver skirting.
thanks for the interest and hope to keep updating