These cars always seem to overheat. I've installed an after market temp gauge to see just how hot. 220 HOT!
My fan does run, but only after it gets really hot. The fan also shuts off once I turn the key off.Fortunately my radiator cap was spitting antifreeze at this temp, or I may have lost a head gasket....again.

The radiator is good and had a new water pump when the new engine was installed ~ 40,000 miles ago. This has always ran hot.

I have only come up with 2 ideas.
1) remove the A/C condenser. It is huge and is right in front of the tiny radiator. This would allow much more air flow to the radiator and engine.

2) Modify the front area to allow for a custom/larger aluminum radiator.

I would love to start driving this thing when the temperature is above 70 degrees outside.

I have found someone to replace my floors for what I think is a reasonable price, so the overheating issue needs to be addressed.

Thanks for any help...

Ok yours is not turbo right.So you said the radiator is good.Was it pressure tested or cleaned by shop removed from the car.Seriously if this is the original (will assume it is) it probably has blocked or restricted areas inside it,even if it LOOKS clean from the top.My recommend replace the radiator with a new one,auto zone sells spectra and are plastic casings with aluminum(bought for my 87 truck).My rad was toast blocked up and crap that no cleaner would remove ever.Second replace your heater core! A restricted heater core reduces coolant flow.Being you have a new pump is good,and new upper/lower hoses I assume.I know my 2.0 kicks the fan about 200 or so and runs fine.No run hot ever.I would bet money your radiator and heater core are too blame because poor circulation thru BOTH of these will heat up the temps regardless of a new wp and therm and or rad cap.Check around with advance auto,oreillys and napa and see if they have a aluminum style rad,bc I know design varies on construction of these and the plastic case is ok,but alum is better.Do these checks and def replace the 2 items bc it can and will make ALL the difference.My truck actually cools better,heats up better in cold with the new rad,htr core,and mine has a fan clutch.My trk is a 2.2 carb with AC and temp diff is nite and day.

Wow Ron, you just assumed and then said you would bet on your assumptions, really?
I've had the car for 26 years and more than 300,000 miles, No, it isn't sporting the original radiator.
The car operates perfect in the cooler months. The heater blows HOT even when it is -15 below zero (or colder)
I have a few other ideas I'll work on in the next few months.

Interesting. From what you have said I would swap out the t-stat cap - it should not leak, even when overheating, that is what your bottle is for. These cars were designed to run hotter than normal cars for emissions purposes. When was the last time it was good? What changed? After the cap I would start small with a basic pressure test. The caps both on the radiator and t-stat housing are prone to failure when pressurized. You will have to pressure test from the radiator cap on the side of the radiator unless you find a pressure tester that will fit the t-stat housing. I never had luck with that. My T-stat cap has been replaced a few times. I have added a product called "water wetter" to fresh antifreeze and water mix with good results in both my bird and camaro.

Another option for "key off" cooling is to install a fan timer like the turbo cars have. My fan runs for 5 minutes after shutdown if the temp switch is closed. I can help you with that as I just had to move mine.

You've had it for 26 years, so please don't beat me up if I suggest you pull the T-Stat and go for a spin. Full flow might get you a temporary get by till cold weather settles in. Just an old country boy's idea

I've thought about puling the thermostat. I installed a newly rebuilt engine ~ 5 years ago. New pistons, rings, cam, rebuilt head, oil pump, water pump, the whole deal. The radiator was just installed prior to this. The fan and switch were working correctly.
Within 20,000 miles, the car overheated and blew a head gasket.
It may have been hot that day, but really, I'd like to be able to drive this car without checking the weather.

The radiator is tiny! What about buying one of the all aluminum radiators and having 2 more rows added to it, and adding high speed duel fans?

Once the floors get repaired, I'll be digging into this completly.
Paul, I'm very intrested in the turbo fan timer. where do i find the parts for this?

Thanks everyone, This is getting frustrating since the car always seems to overheat. That's probablly why it has all the rust, it has been a great winter car.

Was curious where you installed your aftermarket temp gauge. Was discussing that the other day regarding the location to install the bulb. Seems that both sensors on bottom of T-Stat housing affect the computer in one way or another. Where did you install yours?
Also , you might could run a switch to your fan from your dash, run your fan more as you needed it too.

If you mean the actual gauge, it is right above and right of my right knee as I sit in the drivers seat.
I did try to run the fan through a toggle. I was always worried about not turning it on or off. I never did get it wired to turn on/off with the key, just never got to it again. I think it would still be hot enough in the winter months to just leave the fan on all through the year..

I am trying to figure out where to mount the pick-up under the hood for a mechanical temp gauge, was wondering where you mounted yours at? I've just got idiot lights in mine. :-(

I just have the electrical type gauge, not mechanical...It's what I happened to have..

Ok. You have an aftermarket temperature gauge. It is an electrical aftermarket temperature gauge. You mounted the face of the gauge right above and right of your right knee as you sit in the drivers seat. Where did you hook it up to the engine?

Iowa (Kent)-

It would be easiest to look for a 1.8 or 2.0 turbo car in a yard and just pull the combo fan relay and timer. On the 84s they are on the driver side fender, on later years it moved back to the firewall. Thats the project I just did . You will have to splice in an extra hot line, but heck, with the waterproof splices they sell now, even guys like me can do electrical projects properly

If you look at my "thinking out of the box" post, the last pic shows the driver side inner fender and the cooling fan and turbo timer is right there.

A bigger radiator would help the problem, but I am a big fan of putting something back to "last known good" through undoing anything that changed. Your car should work stock. If not, a installing a larger radiator may just mask an underlying problem.

Iowa I eat my words on my rambling!!!!I now reread some things,and tend to agree with paul hold off on the rad upgrade till you get things right.The only thing I could see with 1st hdgkt maybe a bad fit this can happen on any ride.But if it is still running warmer on hot days maybe something else is factoring in to cause it.Aside from a rad cap or thermostat.Maybe your head is causing the issue,hard to say unless u pull off.Idk interesting it is.

Couple of questions for you.You said the car always ran hot,even before the rebuild correct.Just wondering did you get the engine bored any,like .030 over or just get it cleaned up.Asking some mechanics on my end who know there stuff no ? and seeing if there recommends can help you out.I def want to erase my over thinking and not paying attention comments.Alright

Orlen,
The sending unit is directly below the distributor, on the head.
Paul,
I'll start looking for the pieces you've mentioned. I'll need to start pulling J body parts, rather than G body, since I've now started an unintended new project. I removed my interior today. The floors will be getting replaced in 2 weeks. That leads to the obvious need for new seat upholstery. Then replace the drivers side rusty fender (Already have a nice one), The 5 year old carpet will then look bad and will need replaced. It's amazing how faded it is in the areas not protected by the floor mats.
Noticed today that I still have the Pontiac rear speakers installed.
Ron,
Sorry about the misunderstanding. I've been on the other Pontiac sites too much. They get excited if you have the wrong shade of black undercoating or the wrong textured valve stem cap.
The rebuilt engine was purchased from The Engine Shop in Pennsylvania, so Im not sure about the bore. New pistons, rings, cam, bearings, oil pump, water pump, bearings, rebuilt head etc.. Then the head was replaced again shortly after. Resurfaced or replaced, I'm not really sure.

I'll check the rotation of the fan, maybe that got messed up. The car was totaled in the front about 15 years ago, so who knows.
Maybe the fan is just getting weak? I will try a new aluminum rad once the floors get done. It's getting cool enough now to actually work/drive on it.
Thanks for all of the help...

Well the ? about bore was bc if the cylinder walls are thinner it could make the car run a touch warmer based on what I have asked and got comments on from the mechanics I know.Also There is a product made that is a coolant called evans coolant.This product is NOT to mixed with water or any antifreeze period.It can make your boiling point higher and is VERY effective.You do have to totally flush your system and literally blow out ALL the water/freeze and get it as clean as possible before this can be added to the system.I learned about from my trucking show on xm this guy KNOWS his stuff and the shop he works with does this.This is primarily used in diesel trucks(big class 8).BTW it is not cheap.I may find the link sometime to pop up here so you can look at it and see if that might be better for you.Granted your fan maybe sucking wind,that is totally possible,and check oriellys they sell some alum applications at least for mazda trks (I own) friends of mine got there new rads from them and they are ALL aluminum.Something to consider that may be a almost exact fit.Cool and pop some pics of that floor when it is done!!

Thanks so much for the temp gauge location!! I read your reply and ran right out to see for myself.....sure enough, there is yet another sensor location right where you told me. That makes 3 temp sensor locations on my 1.8. What on earth did GM need with 3 of them for?!?!
Hopefully, Paul94Z28 can jump in and help me out. He's good with the Pontiac - Brazil Engines like what we have.
I'm kinda of a fan of your idea of removing that AC Condenser , especially if your AC is not usable. I read that you had extensive damage on the front end 15 years ago , and if those fins are bent on either side of that condenser, it'll really block your air flow, even with a good fan. I tossed out the AC components on my old '86 Wagon, and if it didn't make my car run cooler, it my me feel better driving it anyways. I replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostat all at the same time, and it runs nice and cool now .At least I know I'm getting all the air I can. If I remember , I thinks that thing comes out from the bottom, at least on my chevy, so you might get R up on jackstands when you get started. But I know you got the floorboards project going on now.
Anyways, removing the condenser is a money-less project , and you can eliminate that as a culprit in your journey!! :-)
Keep us informed on you headway!! :-)

Kent-

I wil scan the service manual procedures and email them to you if you would like. I already PM'd Orlen to the 3 sensors.

Sure Paul,
Anything you could send me would be a big help.
I would love to keep the A/C, so the condenser will stay for awhile.
The car was totally rebuilt after the wreck. There are still wrinkles on each inner fender, but thats it.
I never did see the damage, since I was living out of state and my mother was driving the car (it was still hers).
I drop the car off next week for the floor work. They said it would only take a couple days.
I'm looking for a good heat/sound deadener before I put in the new carpet.....I used FatMat on my truck, but I can't tell if it is quieter, since I have an exhaust leak at the manifold.

Kent - I sent you the shop manual pages. Orlen - I need your email...

Been having problems with mine running hot before the engine swap (radiator is 2 years old). Still had same problem with new engine and new t-stat. Thanks to this post I knew where the relay was (on driver side fender wall). Replaced that with the donor car relay and fan NOW COMES ON and the car actually runs cool now. Thanks to Paul!

Old relay on left and replacement relay on right

Relays seem to be a scourge .
A buddy recently acquired a nice 2nd gen Z24. Got to talking to him and found out he'd gotten it for FREE!! :-O The previous owner had a strange intermittent shut down problem; had to get out and disconnect the battery , hook it back up and then it would start back up again. The fuel pump had been replaced. To make a long story short, it wound up being the fuel pump relay.
Just thought if anyone else had those symptoms they could give it a try. Makes a really good case to scarf up every relay you can on next time you at the salvage yard!!
I noticed in the factory manual pages that Paul sent me the coolant fan switch isn't supposed to close until you reach 238* F .....that's way too high in my opinion. Especially with an automatic transmission. The coolant at that temp could cook the fluid and shorten its lifespan.

Yep, my relay has been changed a few times. The fan does come on, but man it runs hot. My floors should be "finished" by the time I get back from vacation. It's cool enough now to go on some road tips.......

Well, thought mine was fixed too. I took it out this afternoon and stopped at my daughters field hockey game and don't you just know there is coolant leaking from the cap and motor is real hot. Got home and swapped caps and same thing. If I think back this problem started about two years ago when I replaced the radiator. Possible bad radiator? Also the temp light does not come on and if I leave it idling the coolant fan comes on????