please help me out, needs to go to danbury ct. willing to pick up if close by
Posted in your other thread. I have a full l61 head here in Boston. Pm me if interested, I'd be willing to meet somewhere as long as its not 200 miles away.
"In Oldskool we trust"
I have a head with a fairly fresh valve job. Do you need the whole complete head with rockers, cams, and lash adjusters?
whole thing headwise, all of them bent
so the explanation is there was not enough oil to keep tension on the timing chain. i can get the head redone with new valves and a 3 angle valve job for about 200 including parts from a friend and buy a new timing set or i can buy a engine from the jy. thoughts?
My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:so the explanation is there was not enough oil to keep tension on the timing chain. i can get the head redone with new valves and a 3 angle valve job for about 200 including parts from a friend and buy a new timing set or i can buy a engine from the jy. thoughts?
why not buy a head on ebay?
or, pony up for the $80 tool to replace the bent valves and fix the head you have?
bent valves doesn't ALWAYS mean you need a valve job.
I've replaced valves in a pinch and got engines running without a valve job OR lapping in the past.
but, it depends on how bad the damage is. Obviously if the actual seat is damaged then you're screwed.
but if the damage is isolated to the valve, just swap them out and enjoy your life until you're ready to dump cash on a built head
DaFlyinSkwirl (Pj) wrote:My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:so the explanation is there was not enough oil to keep tension on the timing chain. i can get the head redone with new valves and a 3 angle valve job for about 200 including parts from a friend and buy a new timing set or i can buy a engine from the jy. thoughts?
why not buy a head on ebay?
or, pony up for the $80 tool to replace the bent valves and fix the head you have?
bent valves doesn't ALWAYS mean you need a valve job.
I've replaced valves in a pinch and got engines running without a valve job OR lapping in the past.
but, it depends on how bad the damage is. Obviously if the actual seat is damaged then you're screwed.
but if the damage is isolated to the valve, just swap them out and enjoy your life until you're ready to dump cash on a built head
PJ,
They are going to pull the pan to see if the engine is worth any effort at this point. Make sure bearings etc are good. If it is I was just going to have the valves swapped out but the guy who does the head work offered to do it while he was in there so no extra cost. I have not gone up to look at the engine because of my school and work schedule, but if the engine is toast the idea is to pull it throw another in and build the original engine for some boost.
i am honestly about to just throw te f&cking 3500 in this and call it a day
This sounds like bad news. Was something wrong with the head?
"In Oldskool we trust"
Does this mean you don't want my springs? Lol just playing guy that sucks about what happened, I hope you can fix it. The springs aren't going anywhere. I'd rather you get the car fixed, once you get stuff all said and done hit me up, I'll hold them for ya. =?
Straight lines are over-rated In My Opinion =]
Y3llowCav wrote:This sounds like bad news. Was something wrong with the head?
the head needed to be decked and some valve seats were rough. i do appreciate you shipping it out so quickly though bro.
I am not sure what to do with this now. i am in the car a total of 2100 and honestly i am not sure if fixing the engine and selling it would even get my money back at this point. i know i would like to keep the wiring harness and trans set up for the vert so i could go 00+ for tuning and throw either an eco or my 3500 in that but it seems like such a friggin waste to get this far into it and not have it run. good thing i didn't sell my subaru yet...
My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:the head needed to be decked and some valve seats were rough. i do appreciate you shipping it out so quickly though bro.
Man that sucks. I never ran it but I didn't think it was
that bad. Well, let me know if there's anything else I can do..
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:My Z is Slow (Mike) wrote:the head needed to be decked and some valve seats were rough. i do appreciate you shipping it out so quickly though bro.
Man that sucks. I never ran it but I didn't think it was that bad. Well, let me know if there's anything else I can do..
Coming from the owner of a 230 bhp cavi. =D
Straight lines are over-rated In My Opinion =]
Isn't bhp the same whp??? Idk I suck with with engines, I drive. 8)
Straight lines are over-rated In My Opinion =]
Lmao anywho... hope things get better Slow =]
Straight lines are over-rated In My Opinion =]
BHP is different because of how it is measured. Think BSHP brake specific hp.
WHP is the actual to wheels number.
I think I may finish the engine in my garage since the labor is killer. Throw this &itch together, drive it to make sure everything works then cut loses and throw the whole thing in my vert. The 4 dr harness should give the ability to lower the back windows in the vert using the 4dr window switch. A boosted vert sounds more fun than the v6 idea, except for having to use premium of course.
Then take the shell and run it over with a bull dozer or something and send it to the jy.
Shoulda taken my advice from the get go sir.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, May 05, 2013 9:20 AM
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Jeffie @ Driving Force Fabs wrote:Shoulda taken my advice from the get go sir.
That advice came after the fact if I recall. Either way it is what it is now.
