I am finally starting my build thread. I bought my 01 Z in 2005 and it was stock. Over the years I have had many ideas for the car ranging from a full turbo build to selling the car. But for the last two years I have been working toward an all motor build. And its finally getting close to completion. Block will be going to the machine shop in the coming weeks to get over bored and weight taken off the crank.
Build consists of:
Fetter's block, already has 2.3 oil pump swap
Miller oil pan
Jet Titanium Quad4 rods
11.5 or 12:1 compression, not sure on the overbore yet
W41 cams modified for the LD9 power steering and the CPS pad added
McMoney's adjustable cam gears
Crank weight reduction
HO Valve Springs
TI spring retainers
1mm oversized SS valves
35mm "light weight" lifters
ARP Main and Head studs
LSJ Injectors
Ron's long tube header
Extrude honed HO manifold
2.3 TB bored to 60mm
OBX LSD, been rebuilt
Bully Stage 3 clutch
Lightened stock flywheel
2.2 MSD coil conversion (already installed)
Light weight crank and alt pulleys (crank installed)
Coatings:
The piston tops and combustion chamber will be coated with a Thermal Barrier Coating
The piston skirts will be with an anti friction coating
Header will be ceramic coated
Various other parts will be powder coated
I'm sure I have forgotten something but questions and comments welcome.
Picture time:
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Very cool stuff! Can't wait to see it up and running.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Where did you get your obx lsd?
looks like a great build!! i have just a couple questions or concerns.
first it appears that your using an LD9 block? so i assume your using the ld9 crank , with quad4 rods? personally, i would advise against this..but i dont want to argue about it.
second, and maybe i just overlooked it.. but wheres the head work !! all this money invested i expect to see head work? what head are you even using??!!! i KNOW brad is going to push for the ld9 head
with all the work being put into this i expect to see some real head and valve work done.
also i see your getting "crank weight reduction" , the ld9 crank is already pretty light..focus on the knife edge , and settle with the weight reduction that comes with it.
just my .02
I remember Brad, still looking for a machinest.
Brody check out the thread about rebuilding the OBX, the guy who put it up bought the LSD and rebuilt it for me.
Scott - I am using those rods bc they are lighter and slightly increase my r/s. The head is LD9 and of course will have the proper work done to it. On the crank I'm not going to go crazy and recently have been thinkIng of only knife edging. Been waiting to talk with a machinest about the matter.
Also forgot to mention the head I got has bronze guides.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
lol scott... why advise against using 2.3 rods? one MAJOR reason for the 2.3 rods.. they are titanium and very light. and you know as well as anybody our components (and know the LD9 crank aint light LOL) are heavy as hell.
compare our @!#$ to hondas (yes the company that has 9 second streetable all motor cars) and you'll see why i always push for lighter and lighter. a honda crank is like a micro machine compared to ours. hell even the rocket parts lightweight forged crank is heavier than a honda's id bet...
and i know i preach a lot about honda but we cant afford to be ignorant. they have it going on and make the power n/a. its as simple as that.
they key to a really FAST n/a motor is lightweight compnents. it needs to be light and nimble in order to rev up to the higher power range it needs to be at. to really move. of course the torque of our big beasts is going to get the brick moving but one thing ours lack is the faster rev capability.
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
Looking good man! Enjoy the diff!
I always wondered what you had goin on.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I'll be watching this one closely...
I ended up knife edging 3lbs off the crank... i didn't want to gut it too much more considering how light the crank is to begin with (i know brad has a guy that will take like 20lbs off of it)
Maybe i missed it but i don't see what bearings you are running. I'd suggest Clevite 77 bearings.
I'd also advise that your HO Springs are GM and not Sealed Power. I wouldn't feel safe revving sealed power past 7000 RPM and with your cams, i'd tune up to at least 7200 if not 7500.
As for head work, are you planning a full port and polish?
brad, i realize they are titanium, and yes i would love to have that strength and light weight. But it also means he will need to slim the rod in order to get them to fit the crank. correct? i have talked to several people and companies..one being eagle(cus they made mine) and everyone suggested against it. eagle flat out said "dont do it" . theres 3 things i dont like to fail on my motor. crank,rods,pistons. ( or anything in between)
so i chose peace of mind over alittle weight.
as far as the crank the LD9 is already MUCH lighter than the quad crank, knife edge it and its even less.
Stop comparing parts to other platforms and simply focus on IMPROVING the one the one your working on. Thats the key to a good build. Sure you can still tricks and tips from other platforms but if your comparing youll usually just end up disappointed.....or breaking something.
My HO's are sealed power valve springs from rock auto. I have gone back and forth on the springs many times. I might be going with the Crower springs Cory posted about on FB if my Ti retainers work with them. I'm ordering Clevite bearings this weekend. Head will be full port and polish.
What are comparable crank weights, LD9, Quad, Eco, K series? Again I am going to consult the machinest on his recommendation for the crank work. I should have that nailed down early next week.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
I do not recall exactly what style retainer you have, but they are designed specifically for a 2.3 spring as GM intended. I have doubts about them working with to many aftermarket springs. Just a heads up.
scott (section8cav) wrote:brad, i realize they are titanium, and yes i would love to have that strength and light weight. But it also means he will need to slim the rod in order to get them to fit the crank. correct? i have talked to several people and companies..one being eagle(cus they made mine) and everyone suggested against it. eagle flat out said "dont do it" . theres 3 things i dont like to fail on my motor. crank,rods,pistons. ( or anything in between)
so i chose peace of mind over alittle weight.
as far as the crank the LD9 is already MUCH lighter than the quad crank, knife edge it and its even less. Stop comparing parts to other platforms and simply focus on IMPROVING the one the one your working on. Thats the key to a good build. Sure you can still tricks and tips from other platforms but if your comparing youll usually just end up disappointed.....or breaking something.
lol am i not trying to improve on our platform? how is simply looking at how others get it done a bad thing, man? and im sure eagle never machined down a set of jet titanium 2.3 rods before lol.. but tim at mantapart has and has ran them to 10,000 rpm. pretty sure id believe someone thats actually done it versus someone that sells chinese made products. not trying to dog eagle at all but they have been proven to work this way. ive shown them to a couple engine builders, they said there is nothing wrong with cutting them down to fit it just needs to be precise.
kyle, my crank is only like 6 pounds lighter than stock.
looked up crank weights... (just a rough google search on most)
stock quad 4 = 47-1/2 pounds
rocket parts "lightweight" forged quad 4 crank = 41.5 pounds
stock LD9 = 43 pounds
(my gutted and knife edged LD9 crank weighs 37 pounds, jay's gutted LD9 crank weighs 37.5 pounds)
stock K20 crank = 39.6 pounds
stock B16a crank = 33 pounds
Knife edged GSR Crank = 24.25 pounds
eagle chromoly GSR crank = 29 pounds
so, in review... my GUTTED AND KNIFE EDGED LD9 crank weighs 37 pounds... and a stock.. yes, STOCK B16A (one of the most common honda engines, came in the usdm civic si's) weighs 33 pounds.
see what i mean?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, February 09, 2012 5:36 PM
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
first of all....using mantapart as a reference will only put you in the dog house
other than that, as i said before, you do what you want, i wont argue about it. we BOTH know its a better rod ratio and is lighter.
i just wish you would have put a better knife edge on that crank rather than focusing on just weight loss.
Scott I didn't see your post before my last one. I will agree that those are the components I don't want to break and I thank you for voicing your concern but I highly doubt taking 0.174" off a titanium rod is going to compromise its strength in a way I would ever have to worry about in my build.
Clyde, the style I have is specifically designed for the 2.3 spring and 2.4 valves. The only instance I have read/heard about the sealed power springs failing were on higher lift / duration (thus higher rpm) cams on turbo motors. I have been operating under the hope in addition to lower rpm, because I am using as many light weight valve train components as possible the sealed power springs would work fine. Hoping something will work isn't my style but the only alternative has been the VW DVS set up but thats more money to spend and I think overkill. Real GM HO springs should work for me right? Anyone have GM HO springs they want to sell me?
Brad - Thanks for the info, I didn't realize ours was that heavy compared to our competition. I guess it will be interesting to hear what the machinist has to say.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
lol scott. i love you... pure homo.
ho springs will be just fine for you and w41 cams, shawn. as part of blueprinting ur setup i would make sure all the spring seats and valve seats are all the same height, too. this will help the engine work together better. this is what we did on pauls head.. his valves were all over the place when we cut the seats for the 1mm over valves. had to actually put shims under the springs to bring the seat pressure back up.
if you want a bit more seat pressure just add some shims to ur setup. i dont know how much you can get away with on ho springs without getting coilbind at max lift but iirc there is some room to play there... just look into it.
Come join us over on the Olds Quad 4 and Twin Cam Facebook group!
I feel you on the spring setup. Dont get me wrong, i love my DVS setup..but its alota extra work and money. I think youll be fine with those springs. just gotta find a set.
Brad and Scott when you say HO springs you mean GM or the sealed power ones I have? IIRC my set up will have a max travel to coil bind of .481 -.410 lift leaves .071 travel. There is some room for chiming to raise the seat pressure. I'll be sure to bring it up with the machinest.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
4 years no problem? this the same guy that just smashed pistons to his head?
Just saw this thread. Looks awesome! Good luck with it all, and I'll be keepin' an eye on this one.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
Wheres the pics of the other parts
Buy my stuff!!! CLICK
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Fetter - Your contribution is at my dad's shop still in the crate. I don't have pics.
Think I found my machinest, going to talk with him Monday.
For the springs I might just bite the bullet and get GM HO valve springs, going to confult machinest first.
I guess I forgot pics of the cams, engine mounts and other misc parts.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
