i just traded my 87 iroc-z for a 99 z24 with the 2.4 LD9 im new to the tuner car thing and i wanna make alot of power and go as fast as i can with all bolt ons for now i read alot on here already about the ho and w41 cam swaps and intakes and this is all new to me and i gotta admit im a lil confused lol! im to used to L98 tpi Ls1 etc talk lol so i want all you guys to give me a hand here and lead me in the right direction of makin alot of power and go fast in this lil car my buddys 87 lx 5.0 runs a 13.28 i wanna try and keep up if i can with out boost, please clarify what cars and witch parts i need to get these parts from and what i need to do to try and get this done id really be greatful for the help you guys im a little lost at the moment lol thanks everyone! and yes ima newb to the site as well be easy on me plz lol
oh and im down for head work i can port and im can get another head to get worked on how far can i mill it down etc? id love to have big cams and high compression no boost and run a 14 that would be sweet! but idk if its posible. and i plan on doin a 5 speed swap its an auto as of now, thanks agin!
13.2 is doable... but.. .you'll need to invest some serious $$ in the motor...
you need HO or larger cams with modified cam housings and ho lifters (or you can get the intake housing modified and use the HO exhaust housing)
you should get high comp domed pistons
you need HO valve springs (to rev up to 7500 RPM w/o as bad of a risk of valve float)
you should get stainless valves (1mm is a bonus)
you should do the 2.3 oil pump swap
you need a nice header, like rons.
you need to get it tuned (hptuners)
im sure im forgetting a few things, which im sure others will add to.
what can i acomplish with out goin into the block tho? ill mess with head and stuff but for short term rite now i dont wanna junk into the block yet
Check out some of the profiles in the quad 4 N/A section of this link to see what they did to achieve their numbers
Best 1/4 Mile Times
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
And you could check out the top whp in the racing section also for answers thats the best i can do cause idk anything about the 2.4
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
Cavi2Sunfire wrote:Check out some of the profiles in the quad 4 N/A section of this link to see what they did to achieve their numbers
Best 1/4 Mile Times
everyone on there from my time and above modified the block...
damn this is brain racking lol so what if i mill head down as far as i can have a cam custom ground do a port job bigger valves port the stock LD9 intake do a header full 2.5in exhaust with a thrust chamberd muffler with tip out at 45 b4 pass rear tire cold air do a custom tune or chip biiger injectors a 5 speed swap coil conversion with hot ignition stuff some weight reduction underdrive pullys good front tires billet flywheel ac delete, were do ya think that would put me at?
what do these LD9's go for at junk yards cuz if i have too il go ahead and buy one put it on the stand and start building it slowly but shurly
no chips are available... you have to tune...
custom cams... you may want to check other threads, people are having very hard times finding blanks...
you plan to port the plastic intake manifold?
LSJ injectors are nice... but you will need to immediately change the injector constant in the tune to get the car running.
the head can only be milled to .020 - .030... with my build, the .020 mill + .030 cometic gasket (stock GM gaskets are .046) = .020 valve to piston clearance.
i'll tell you a secret... there are about 300 bolts that holds the head on... if you are willing to take the head off, its not too much more work to pull the motor, these blocks are cake to work on...
anywhere from 100 to 400 dollars in my area.
i havnt even popped the hood lol didnt know it was plastic my bad and if the ho motor has the better cam then why doesnt everyone just switch heads insted of makin all the mods to make the cams work? and jbp makes cams are the worth the money?
JBP is dead. dont worry about them.
best thing i can tell you for a basically free mod is to do weight reduction. our cars are heavy bastards. ditch all non-essentials and you'll be decently fast with a bone stock motor.
our motors need high compression to produce the real beastly numbers. you can deck the block a bit as well as the head and install the flatter faced ss valves to get you to about 10:1 compression, which is going to help but no where near as much as a nice set of domed pistons will get ya.
basically, if you want an un-reliable, mediocre engine stick with the stock bottom end, if you want to run with the big boys you're gonna need to get in there and do work.
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
not trying to be a jerk but instead of asking a million questions right now just search around read some threads youll probley get a lot of answers and learn a lot that way
cody nobbs wrote:i havnt even popped the hood lol didnt know it was plastic my bad and if the ho motor has the better cam then why doesnt everyone just switch heads insted of makin all the mods to make the cams work? and jbp makes cams are the worth the money?
the head swap is a bit more work IMO... things don't exactly line up and modifications will be needed to made. (i don't remember exactly what, but i beleive it involves redrilling passages... someone correct me here).... you'll also have to switch up or cap off the power steering, as the LD9 its directly cam driven, and prior to the 95 2.3, it was belt driven off the cam. the intake manifold runners are different (LD9 = b shaped, HO = oval shaped), so you'll need the HO mani or an adaptor spacer .
its much simpler modifying the HO intake cam, and modifying the Intake cam housing, and just using the HO exhaust cam housing, as well as getting the bigger lash adjusters for them, and swapping to the bigger valve springs.
In my opinion....I would go with...
W41 Cams or larger, HO cam towers, HO lifters, and HO retainers.
96-98 Head, Smaller combustion camber, rather than 99-02 heads. I wouldn't bother with the LG0/HO head. The LD9 heads can have a LOT of porting done to them as well, with out getting into the water jackets.
99 flat top pistons, or higher compression from wiseco pistons. They will go up to 14:1, but are $750 if I remember correctly for a set. Karo at carcustoms can order a set through wiseco for you.
2.3 oil pump swap, to remove rotation mass, and provide better oiling, don't forget the extended oil pan or talk to Brad, Zyaaa about his oil pick up adapters.
According to GM you are not supposed to deck the head or the block more than 0.010". Or a total of no more than 0.020".
HO/LG0 crank pulley, or one of mine. Unorthadox made a great crank pulley as well, but they are almost all long gone now.
HPTuners is pretty much required to tune everything. Most people cannot tune a j-body correctly with HPTuners, even if they are well versed with in on other GMs.
Ron header is you best bet for power, DC's isn't bad, and Pacesetter Ceramic coated one is ok
A larger throttle body would help with all the added breathing.
You could probably get by with the M45 supercharger injectors, and a racetronix fuel pump.
If you do not want to get into the block. You better get into weight reduction. Lightweight rims and tires. Lighten everything...
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
The problem with the intake cam that people aren't actually saying is that the 2.4 power steering won't work with it unless modified. The 2.3 pump won't fit with a 2.4 head. You could do what I did and ditch the power steering and just bolt the 2.3 intake tower on. If you put on an 086 head(best 2.3 head) you'll get bigger valves and 11.37-1 compression but valve clearance is iffy with ho cams and 2.3 head on 2.4 block. Some claim to have done it but no one has actually measured. Some gasket matching with a dremel is required for this setup. You'll also need 2.3 ho intake and exhaust manifolds or a rons header. Some of the coolant plumbing is different too but nothing major. I wpuld think with a good tune, larer injectors, pnp, some weight reduction(nothing too crazy) you could see some good numbers with the stock bottom end and mid 13s with a built bottom end.
z yaaaa wrote:JBP is dead. dont worry about them.
best thing i can tell you for a basically free mod is to do [b]weight reduction. our cars are heavy bastards. ditch all non-essentials and you'll be decently fast with a bone stock motor.
our motors need high compression to produce the real beastly numbers. you can deck the block a bit as well as the head and install the flatter faced ss valves to get you to about 10:1 compression, which is going to help but no where near as much as a nice set of domed pistons will get ya.
basically, if you want an un-reliable, mediocre engine stick with the stock bottom end, if you want to run with the big boys you're gonna need to get in there and do work.
This.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCFBLIVUNfc
big improvements were made from weight reduction.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
^^^ LMFAO
i dont know whats funnier... the fact he thinks his 95 cavalier is a 94 grand am, the fact he sounds stoned out of his mind, his 'blackcent' for being a white boy, or the fact he thinks its amazing it starts up first time ALL @!#$IN DAY! yeah... its supposed to? so what.
lol
If it takes forever.... I will die trying. Underdog Racing
