really?
no one has anything to say
Glowshift gauges are fine I have one of there boost gauges, the even go into 7 color party mode11
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i sure do appreciate it man.
i think i'll go ahead and order these. im wanting to make sure the gauges work fine before i swap my engines
i dont think i could handle the digital reading and red and green light that goes back and forth on a wideband
Dont get that wideband, please buy an innovate LC1, or an AEM Uego.
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Leafy wrote:Dont get that wideband, please buy an innovate LC1, or an AEM Uego.
now this is what i was looking for, someone to question what im am wanting...
please explain
A wideband is a pretty complex sensor and requires a high quality wide band controller to be properly used. Even within the, what I consider, the lower end market,of the LC1 and Ugo you have a pretty big variance as to features and speed of the controller. Sure that wideband kit uses the same sensor as the two above, but they dont describe their controller at all; is it programmable? Can it withstand the head of the engine bay? Is it high quality enough to last 5-10 years? How many outputs does it have and what are the stock output settings? It also doesnt seem to have a warranty of any kind much less a life time one. For 20 bucks more its worth the peace of mind of buying a good wideband.
That said, I have a pro sport boost gauge and I like it, pro sport is supposedly the company that makes the gauges for glow shift. Don't get one of the tinted one, and dont get a mechanical one. Also that cup is useless, you'll need something better, the pro sport pillar pod I have is decent, I have mine Velcro'ed up and it doesnt look that bad.
I would buy this oil pressure gauge
Your text to link here...
and this wide band
Your text to link here...
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
The glowshift gauges and sending unit I have have worked (and still do) for the past 4 or 5+ years. The wideband has to be a new product, because they never had a wideband before when I was looking at EGT's a year or so ago. So, no one here knows how accurate this wideband really is. From What I can tell though, it doesn't appear to have a 0-5V analog output, which is necessary for datalogging. You could probably get around that, though, if you splice into the signal going to the gauge.
Leafy wrote:Dont get that wideband, please buy an innovate LC1, or an AEM Uego.
There are plenty more than just those two. I for one have used the NGK Powerdex for as long as I've had the glowshift gauges. I chose it over others mainly because it supports the stronger/more accurate NGK sensor(comes with the cheap Bosch sensor, though). PLX and Zeitronix were popular choices in the past as well.
I have no signiture
True, the the LC1 and the Ugo are more popular choices and if he had problems, he'd have more people on here be able to help him.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy, Whalesac, thanks for helping. i've did a little research on the two widebands and the one i was looking at. glowshift can keep theirs. i guess the appearance of the gauge is what caught my eye.
so, it boils down to two different widebands, LC1 and Uego...which is better? ...any difference in the two when using with HPT?
what is wrong with an analog gauge compared to a digital gauge?
i can fix a car but all this air/fuel ratio and tunning is new to me...thats why im here, i want to learn
I've never used the aem but the Lc1 is pretty easy to use with hp tuners, I set the 2nd output of the Lc1 to be 0-5 volts 10-17 afr, the innovate can read between like 7 to 21 afr's but you're not really tuning outside of 10-17. You do need a computer with a serial port to program the lc1, or a usb to serial adapter, my laptop doesnt have a serial port so I ended up having to program mine in the house. BUT it needs to be powered to be programmed and the fues is blown on my adjustable powersupply so I ended up rigging some batteries in series to get enough voltage to program it, that was a pain in the ass and I should have just bought a usb to serial adapter.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
