Hey guys,
I'm going to be running the N2MB WOT/2-Step Box for next year, if you haven't heard of it check it out by searching in google. They are all the rage with the SRT-4 kids and other factory turbo cars.
Yes I know my car is not turbo'd....not the point and not needed to benefit from the features.
Anyways, with that out of the way.....quick question.
The box needs to reference a clutch position switch, the same kind that is usually hand in hand with cruise control so that it kicks you out of cruise as soon as you try and push the clutch in.
Do we have one of these? My car was a base model so I don't have cruise but I am wondering if all the cars have this switch anyways or if it is just the models with cruise.
I know of the neutral safety switch on the firewall that makes sure the clutch is depressed before you can start the car...but I can't see that being the same one that is used for the cruise set-up.
Any info would be greatly appreciated guys! Thanks!
PS. I will do a little write up on the install too if you guys want....I know Eco guys need the hardened gears to run this tho so I'm not sure how many will really benefit...but I'll do it anyways.
Yep looked into this last year, forgot all about it lolz
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Yes they do all have a clutch position switch?
I have been speaking to Jon @ N2MB and he said someone has installed it on a 2004 Cavalier before but he had cruise control, and he got the signal from one of the connectors on the cruise module.
That however doesn't really help me....lol
I know its a different beast but my 99 Z has only 1 clutch switch. It is a factory A/C car.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
couldn't you theoretically make some sort of clutch switch for it? Maybe using 2 contacts or something?
LE61T PTE6262 Powered 
the cruise cancel switch on the cav is the same switch that prevents the car from starting, use the neon how to on n2mb's page
http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox2-stepfeature2
the cam position sensor is pin f (brown/white) on the icm connector for ecos, power for the icm is pin a (pink), tps signal is pin c on the tps sensor plug (dark blue), pin a (brown) is the cruise control release signal on the clutch pedal position sensor
ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs
o ya and i have always wondered why do eco guys need hardened oil pump gears
ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs
OK thanks Fluffy.
Have you installed one this way before?
These are the vehicle specific instruction I received from Jon @ N2MB
The specific wires for your car as follows:
WOT Box YELLOW wire would connect to one of the fuel injector negative wires, for example with injector #1, it would be a BLACK wire at the injector or a BLACK wire at pin 51 of the PCM.
WOT Box BLUE wire connects to Throttle position sensor pin #C, DARK BLUE or pin #31 at the ECU (also DARK BLUE)
WOT Box GREEN wire connects to cruise control clutch switch pin #B, BROWN / WHITE or pin #D at the cruise control module ( also BROWN / WHITE)
Now, for the WOT Box RED / BLACK, it looks like you only have one ignition coil power wire, so you will just cut the PINK wire at the coil or at the ignition module fuse. You will be left with two halves of the wire. Connect the coil side of the PINK wire to the WOT Box BLACK wire of the RED / BLACK pair. Connect the fuse side of the PINK wire to the WOT Box RED of the RED / BLACK pair. That way the power is going through the WOT Box, like an inline switch.
Differences being the yellow wire going to Injector black wire and the cruise switch being a brown/white wire at pin#B not a brown wire at pin#A
Not trying to prove you wrong or anything....just wanted some clarification.
Thanks man.
Fluffy wrote:o ya and i have always wondered why do eco guys need hardened oil pump gears
Bouncing a 2-step or rev limiter shatters the gears. The oil pump gear is driven off the crank pulley, and its keyed into it. So that key way expands from the sudden change in RPM weakens the metal and eventually shatters the gear.
newt wrote:Yes they do all have a clutch position switch?
I have been speaking to Jon @ N2MB and he said someone has installed it on a 2004 Cavalier before but he had cruise control, and he got the signal from one of the connectors on the cruise module.
That however doesn't really help me....lol
What Fluffy was saying was that the cruise disable uses the start safety switch on the clutch. So your car has it whether you have cruise or not. To test if it's working or not, simply try to start your car without pushing the clutch pedal down. Without pressing the pedal down it won't start. If you look up there under the dash you'll see the switch. I'm wanting to think that it's nothing more than a simple normally open switch.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
newt wrote:OK thanks Fluffy.
Have you installed one this way before?
These are the vehicle specific instruction I received from Jon @ N2MB
The specific wires for your car as follows:
WOT Box YELLOW wire would connect to one of the fuel injector negative wires, for example with injector #1, it would be a BLACK wire at the injector or a BLACK wire at pin 51 of the PCM.
WOT Box BLUE wire connects to Throttle position sensor pin #C, DARK BLUE or pin #31 at the ECU (also DARK BLUE)
WOT Box GREEN wire connects to cruise control clutch switch pin #B, BROWN / WHITE or pin #D at the cruise control module ( also BROWN / WHITE)
Now, for the WOT Box RED / BLACK, it looks like you only have one ignition coil power wire, so you will just cut the PINK wire at the coil or at the ignition module fuse. You will be left with two halves of the wire. Connect the coil side of the PINK wire to the WOT Box BLACK wire of the RED / BLACK pair. Connect the fuse side of the PINK wire to the WOT Box RED of the RED / BLACK pair. That way the power is going through the WOT Box, like an inline switch.
Differences being the yellow wire going to Injector black wire and the cruise switch being a brown/white wire at pin#B not a brown wire at pin#A
Not trying to prove you wrong or anything....just wanted some clarification.
Thanks man.
no your fine, i'm using a 6212 box from msd (not exactly the same. he basically is saying since the eco technically doesnt have a cam sensor to use the no1 injector for a cam signal. pins a and b are the same on the cpp, just pins a is used for cruise and pin b is the cpp signal. that will work the same
newt wrote:Fluffy wrote:o ya and i have always wondered why do eco guys need hardened oil pump gears
Bouncing a 2-step or rev limiter shatters the gears. The oil pump gear is driven off the crank pulley, and its keyed into it. So that key way expands from the sudden change in RPM weakens the metal and eventually shatters the gear.
that makes very good since.... time for hardened pump gears (
)
ʇı ɹǝʍo7 | ǝcoMonstǝrs
OK perfect......issue solved then, thank you very much! I'm not very good with wiring or electronics, not sure why, so I wanted to be sure before I tackled it.
Yes, hardened gears are a must, its in the build book and I believe it was Skunk that blew his gears but running a 2-step without hardened gears.
yeah i dont see how though... curt set his 2 step to like 2500 RPM lol
seems like a good idea. i do know N/A cars LOVE 2 step setups. urs will be a whole different beast out of the hole.
Underdog Racing
Ya the factory gears blow, I cringe everytime I hit my 7700rpm limiter, and that is ONE of the reasons...lol
i dont have clutch position switch =/ i started my car in gear once...bang right into my neighbors car...no damage but i was sure embarressed LOL
I 2-stepped the skwirl for a long time with regular gears.
prolonged use of a 2 step is what makes the gear shatter.. like when you sit on the line and hold it at the limiter before the launch
.....like I used to do
IDK how I didn't shatter gears lol I have a set of hardened ones now
95LsCoupe - That sucks....FYI if you ever go to the drag strip they tech for that....your car starts without the clutch in, you don't race.
PJ - Ya I've bounced off the limiter quite a few times in the burnout box for a good period of time, I was always worried they would blow up. So I'm just gonna upgrade and then not have to worry about it.
Plus now I cant just hold it off the limiter in the burnout box, trying to do 2nd gear burnouts and having to peddle it to avoid hitting the limiter sucks. It ends up just getting extra traction and pulling you out of the box.
I bracket race a lot, so trying to watch what you are launching at and trying to watch the tree come down isn't the easiest thing in the world...end up over-reving/under-reving a lot. 2-step will solve that issue.
If this has been installed pics would be nice
I'm gonna order one later today lol
13.1 @ 115
And how much different would the wiring be to put it on a auto?? Because I won't be buying the no lift shift feature
13.1 @ 115
I was looking into this until I went with the bee*r. The bee*r allows you to put the 2 step on your ebrake or on a button.
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
i thought this allowed for a button also?
13.1 @ 115
Mike what do you need a 2step for?
Your an Auto lol
the way you guys are talking i has t go to clutch
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
