Well I was cruzing through the performance section again and found another guy asking about WAI / CAI and everyone likes to cry about the fact that they still have to get pipped through a hot engine bay. Very true...
Well A long time ago I posted my direct throttle body intake system with hood scoop to feed cold air but never did a write up on it so here is the link to my photo bucket folder with the info.
The one flaw I had to address was at stoplights and stop and go traffice the heat from the exhaust manifold would heat the filters metal parts up and had to be cooled back off at speeds so I made a heat shield for it using home depot parts and some high heat paint, Next step to the system is a heat plat over the entire exhaust area to divert it all around to the sides.
But for less the a hundred buck (way less then a AEM Brute Force system) it does the trick. Its for a LN2 95 but the same concept can be used on a later model unit, plus the intake postion on LD9's takes care of the exhaust headers heat!
I plan on doing some more work to perfect the idea so send your thoughts on by and I see if they might work!
TRUE COLD AIR INTAKE
http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org
And the htis just keep on coming...........
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Hope you like hydro-lock...
the heat from the header probably has nothing to do with why the filter gets stupid hot. the problem is that you have you're filter sitting directly on top of your valve cover. its practically resting on the damn thing. nope, no heat coming off that at all. its only the top of the engine..
the only benefit from having a setup like that would be an increased throttle response, due to the extremely short tube. but any performance increase from colder air is completely negated by the fact that the filter is resting on top of the engine. i'd be willing to bet your IAT's are higher than that of a bone stock LN2 with the rubber tube and factory air box. that and the whole driving in the rain thing. it takes a lot of water to hydro-lock an engine so thats not really a worry, but i know i wouldn't want my air coming through a soaking wet filter on rainy days.
oh my.
LMAO
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
is that a turbo??????????????????? lolz!
Nice write up.........
"Straight roads are for fast cars, turns are for fast drivers"-Colin McRae
The theory is right, but that needs some work, seal it off in the scoop completely.... and eh a few more things too lol
It wouldn't hydrolock, however I bet you will rust out the metal mesh in that filter in less than year.
Pontiac Fiero powered by L61/LE5 Ecotec "Innovation is a new level of performance"
DICE PD aka ecotecfiero wrote:The theory is right, but that needs some work, seal it off in the scoop completely.... and eh a few more things too lol
It wouldn't hydrolock, however I bet you will rust out the metal mesh in that filter in less than year.
idk, on my cavy, i drove it around with no ront bumper. i have an LN2 with a full true CAI from AEM, the one with the filter in the bumper.
and without the bumper, the filter is 100% exposed. and my car would idle ruff as hell, and the exhaust would sputter like no other. it seemed like if i kept driving i would kill the engine. i think it could be POSSIBLE but prolly hard to do.
... or you could swap in a 2.4 N/A ... do the HO mani Swap... (Of course build the motor N/A to be able to utilize the HO Mani), relocate battery, put filter directly off on throttle body...
it'll be about as cold as putting yours on top of a hot motor, with 0 tube.
I am being sarcastic... i only have this setup on my car right now because i havent yet had a chance to get a custom pipe to go from HO Mani, down in to fender, considering the relocated battery.
This is a joke right? Please tell me this is a joke!
all of david diaz's threads are jokes
Speedline02 (GME Chat!!) wrote:... or you could swap in a 2.4 N/A ... do the HO mani Swap... (Of course build the motor N/A to be able to utilize the HO Mani), relocate battery, put filter directly off on throttle body...
it'll be about as cold as putting yours on top of a hot motor, with 0 tube.
I am being sarcastic... i only have this setup on my car right now because i havent yet had a chance to get a custom pipe to go from HO Mani, down in to fender, considering the relocated battery.
How about something like this:
Its a temporary solution until the turbo goes in.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Bbbbbwwwwwwaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahahahhhhaahhahahaahahaha
This is awesome...
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
i took this pic while still dropping in the motor, so excuse the rats nest... this is what i am working with
this one kinda shows where the battery sits
i removed the washer tank, what i need is a tube to go up over the chassis frame and then back down and at an angle through the hole down in to the fender where its protected by the fender liner
Ebay has nice looking intakes for under $50
... Even if you intake slightly out performs an ebay intake, I'd still rather have a nice looking intake than an extra 0.5hp.
Finally... For once, somebody actually grasps the concept of a FAI. And the advantages of locating the inlet above the fender-line. Not to mention the advantages of a short length. Some research needs to be done on what the under-hood temperatures really are at that location, and better sealing & flowing system needs to be developed, but you've definitely got the right idea there so-far. Work on locating the inlet away from the boundary-layer air that's generated along the hood's surface at-speed while you're at it & you'll have the system that Chrysler engineers developed for their Pro-Stock racing program in the early-'70s that's still in-use today.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
So youre cutting to surface area of the filter in half but burying it into a piece of PVC (I think). Good idea.
And you live in the Southwest. How many degrees is the outside temperature different from under the hood? Its not really COLD AIR when its 110 degrees out.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 08, 2010 6:43 PM
TheSundownFire (GME Chat) wrote:So youre cutting to surface area of the filter in half but burying it into a piece of PVC (I think). Good idea.
And you live in the Southwest. How many degrees is the outside temperature different from under the hood? Its not really COLD AIR when its 110 degrees out.
Doesn't matter the air temp because the air is being scooped in so rapidly by the car that it will actually compress the air and create small levels of boost! The faster he drives the more air his engine will take in, which will make him faster, which will bring in more air, which will make him faster.... HOLY @!#$ HE HAS INFINITE HORSEPOWER!
Guys, the point is it's actually feeding fresh air to the engine... Not just giving it a new way of drawing it in, like all these aftermarket setups do. True, it needs some work (Like I said)... But a least it shows he actually grasped the concept of FAI/CAI. Not just simply bought & perhaps even mildly modified something (Like I've seen some do) and installed it, bragging the whole-time "How much better it is". Or poo-pooing a sound, proven design concept... No matter how crude his attempt at it was.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Nickelin Dimer wrote:Guys, the point is it's actually feeding fresh air to the engine... Not just giving it a new way of drawing it in, like all these aftermarket setups do. True, it needs some work (Like I said)... But a least it shows he actually grasped the concept of FAI/CAI. Not just simply bought & perhaps even mildly modified something (Like I've seen some do) and installed it, bragging the whole-time "How much better it is". Or poo-pooing a sound, proven design concept... No matter how crude his attempt at it was.
I understand you want to give the guy credit for his idea, but there already are after market hoods that tunnel air to the filter, so its not like hes about to discover something that hasn't been done. Granted out of all his mods, this one makes the most sense. But it makes much more sense to buy a fiberglass or c/f hood that already does this AND looks good. Sure its more money (although used hoods can be found for $150-$200, hillariously about what a brand name CAI costs), but you also save weight and improve the appearance of the car.
Nice to see someone giving advice instead of all the flames.
I would consider fresh air intake to come from inside the fenderwell which air is fed through the headlight and other areas.
I've researched the wai/ cai temperature difference from underhood in several locations to actual feeding from the fenderwell.
Everything is disputable except for my temperature gauge (which I still have on the car for reference to the IAT) that gave eye opening results with each setup.
The ram air theory really doesn't work unless you're going at a speed worthy of faster air our of car compared to what your cfm is going into your intake plenum.
It's pretty rare that it ever rams air in as everybody has a notion that it does.
Good concept there David but it still needs a little bit of work.
Rain will have it's effect on the intake if it's heavy enough and some driveability issues will result from this setup.
Good luck man.
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Thank you Dave and JBO! 
