i've always wondered about having the ss hood, with the ram air to the box, and putting a wai that ende in the box, how it would compare to the IAT of a CAI.
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the cone style filters breathe better , the more you can block the hot air the better
worth it yes , and yes it will be louder when under boost
^ The air going in will sound louder?
I tell you this, when I was N/A and I did the cut out, at WOT there was a tremendous amount of resonance coming from the air-box. After the S/C, it got really quiet as if I didn't have the cut out.
Anybody else on this? Dyno before and after?
Am I in the right section for this or should it had went to the Performance section? I put it here for the simple reason which would extract better power & mpg with the S/C.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Maybe in this section there will be more responses. (?)
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
i think you should get the short ram intake. a cold air would be better in general but with that hood you may as well try to keep it functional
Eat my shift
well you will hear the s/c alot more , not as much the air sucking noise
normally i like having a straighter shot into the tb , and you have a 90 and 40ish and 90/45ish(from the panel filter to the opening) , the more bends you can cut down the better the air flow will be
moving the battery back and running the intake straight into the bumper would be best , but then leaves out your ram air hood , though i dont use the ram air on the g/fs cav , and ive still gotta get the intake into the bumper , and finish the intercooler
not sure youd see much difference on the dyno , but at the track and driving you would , on my g/fs 97 GTP removing the panel filter and air box , leaving the double bend and air box lid netted 15hp on the dyno , but their air box is very restrictive
^yes but so is our's, and like you said, a cone filter breath's a hell of alot better than a panel filter, with the ram air hood you're probly seeing more than enough "cool" air come into your engine bay to negate the benefits of a cai, and the benefits of the cone filter as opposed to the panel are obvious. i'd say go with the short ram, though i'd swap the filter out for a k+n, but that's a matter of opinion.
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The straighter and more direct the airflow to the throttlebody, the more that can be attained through velocity.
As said, the least amount of bends the better the overall flow into the engine.
Just changing out the rubber 's' portion with 3 inch piping will help the flow tremendously.
Eliminate the plenum on top of the engine with another straight pipe and it'll flow nicely for a ram setup.
Just a thought.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
I would say go for a real intake, your ram air, "functional" or not, doesn't do @!#$. Move the battery go stright out and down into the fender area, you will get cooler air from the fog light area and not from the engine bay area.
^^^ please explain that ram air hood doesnt do @!#$.
and it is functional, see the open air box? see the cutout on the hood? that cutout goes directly to the massive hole in the hood scooping up the same quality cool air that is down in the fog light area, except it doesnt have the front bumper blocking air flow. it may not 'ram' the air in as good as say one that directs the air right into a carburetor on a V8 car but it still 'rams' the air nonetheless.
IMO... do the cone filter in the stock airbox. that way you get the best of both world. the functional ram air
i'd do that weapon R setup with the heat shield on it. Adapt the heat shield to block the heat from the engine while trapping the heat from your ram air set up's... kinda like making the wall of the sheet facing themotor
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z yaaaa wrote:^^^ please explain that ram air hood doesnt do @!#$.
and it is functional, see the open air box? see the cutout on the hood? that cutout goes directly to the massive hole in the hood scooping up the same quality cool air that is down in the fog light area, except it doesnt have the front bumper blocking air flow.
I'll make this quick because I'm about to go to bed, I knew if I didn't reply I'd forget. The reason it doesn't do @!#$ is because of the scoop placement. For example, when in a convertible driving down the highway with the top down you can take a piece of paper throw it up and it doesn't get caught in the wind and go flying out the back of the car, its actually the opposite, it goes back a bit and turns and gets sucked back into the interior of the car (I've tried this first hand with a sebring). Just because it appears like it should do something doesn't mean it will actually do it. I can't find a wind tunnel test of cav specifically but the point is the same.
If you look at the way the air travels over the surface of the car you can see the air flow is channeled considerably higher then the hood line, that "massive hole in the hood" is not connected to a scoop that sits high enough off the hood for it to catch much air, let alone to "ram" it into the intake. If you want a "ram air" to actually be effective you need it to stick up alot.
For example this is a truly functional ram air....
this is not....
The aerodynamics of cars in general make extractor type hoods a lot more functional then scoops. That area below the channeled air flow but on top of the hood would be a low pressure area, a hood like the evo hood would allow hot air to be pulled up out of the engine bay by the low pressure and sucked away. A ram air hood wouldn't be completely useless but I think most people greatly over estimate how much it can actually do. I remember reading somewhere about air flow. One thing it said is that gradual bends are a lot better then sharp bends (obviously) and went on to say a single 90* bend has the same restriction as adding 8 feet of straight pipe. Look at the front of the scoop through the hood, through the airbox, through the intake piping to the throttle body and compare that to a straight pipe from the throttle body with a single bend dipping just down inside the fender.... weather the bumper blocks direct flow or not your going to get far more air flow with that setup over the "ram air" setup.
from waht i understand about cars, our cars, and common sense... the best idea in general for us is to simply get a quality short ram, and a heat shield may very well help. But keeping the stock airbox is usually a terrible idea
when i had the RK hood and the stock air box cut out deal, i blocked off the bottom of the air box so the only air the motor got would be from the hood.
I would run the aftermarket intake, as then cool air blows down on the filter, but you will suck in under hood hot air too, but not that much.
you can solve that with water/meth injection. That was the best mod i did when i was s/c'd .
good luck
I would get a short ram, and cut up the stock airbox so it could fit in it and still use the hood for colder air. I have a short ram, and ducting running to the filter to bring in cooler air.
FU Tuning
As of now, I do have the K&N filter in it. When I dynoed my car back in 2004 and I just put in the S/C, I tested a Delco filter with about 10K miles on it and a cleaned/oiled K&N, the K&N actually dropped one full HP. The only reason I keep it, is for cost effectiveness.
But running a long pipe is out of the question. It might work well for others, but not for me. Short ram it is.
Now, it would be an idea to run the Ram-air pickup with the stock box, and use that heat shield as well with the short ram. The question is would there be any space? I really can not plop a cone filter at the end with the stock box, unless I do some major cutting up.
All I have to do is funnel that air coming to the filter and through the heat shield.
Have any of you actually improved in MPG with any of the open filters?
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
