found these on the comp website and they are relatively inexpensive and available immediately

comp #983
Number of Springs Per Valve Single
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 1.250 in.
Coil Bind Height (in) 1.150 in.
Damper Spring Included No
Spring Rate (lbs/in) 410 lbs./in.
Inside Diameter of Outer Spring (in) 0.830 in.


105 lbs at 1.70 inch
290 lbs at 1.25 inch (.450) lift

also going with the arp v6 studs # 100-7201
Base Thread Size M10 x 1.50mm
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Size 3/8-24 in.
Guideplate Locator Shank Yes
Rocker Arm Nut Thread Length (in) 0.580 in.
Effective Stud Length (in) 1.595 in.
Base Thread Length (in) 0.580 in.

and the mr gasket nuts
Rocker Arm Style Stamped steel
Rocker Arm Nut Style Polylock
Rocker Stud Thread Diameter 3/8-24 in.
Minimum Rocker Slot Width (in) 0.603 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 0.603 in.


is that a decent top end setup?

You using the old 2.2? if so, I am interested in this as well.....

yes it is the old 2.2 the springs and nuts are 16 packs so we could split, the studs are 12 packs

Finding the locks and retainers to work with those springs is where you run into the problem. I had a set-up like that using the K-Motion K-700 Springs (very similar apecs), the K-750 10* locks and a set of locks from Manleyfor the 7mm stems and 10* locks. At the time it was the only combo that I could find that would work, though not with the self-aligning rocker arms (which I have). The Comp 983s are a good spring, even for the price most places charge for them, the ease getting them set up to work will be the problem.

Now I'd recommend the Comp Cams 26981 Valve Springs, they are a drop in application, using the stock locks, retainers and spring seats.

Using the stock installed height of 1.71" of the older 2.2 OHV you'ld have a seat pressure of approximately 106.5 lbs, instead of the 110 lbs Comp rates them at 1.7" installed. They are recommended for flat solid or hydraulic and hydraulic roller applications and a max lift of .525" (.535" on the LN2).

This set-up also looks stock, which might be usefull in your application!

i am using the old style 8mm stems on this app and do not need the b-hive...

i was hoping to use the stock retainer and locks on the 983's, these are going on my 1991 head (TBI)

the next head i am building is going to have the oversized valves 7mm stems, the b-hive springs and the arp rocker studs



my biggest question is are the v6 studs going to be tall enough?

madjack do you still want that 2200 cam

Ahh, okay.

Those should work with the older motors.

The installed height should still be the same and the valve stem length and head design didn't change much, so the studs should be fine.

As for the cam, Mike Jones at Jones Cam Designs was abble to move the lobe centers around to get me a good cam profile. Though I might still try to degree one of those cams, to includ getting the angle on the cam position sensor notch.

Only reason I don't already have the cam in my motor is the damned machine shop. It took them a month to tell me they couldn't do it after a ton of excuses. I called around here in Ocala (FL) and none of the shops here could machine the spring seats, they don't have a pilot for the cutter! I eneded up checking a few places up in Gainesville (45 minutes north of here) and the guy I took it to said he would make his own pilot and do it! While I was there he took some of the springs out and we measured the and they were right on spec and my measurements for the installation were dead on. Another good thing I went to him, he checked the valve job that was done and the machine shop that did it left no seat margin! Like they did the top and bottom angles, but forgot to do the middle seat margin angle! I would have eaten up the valves in no time! The surface jog was straight, but I've got to debur the combustion chambers. I definitely won't be going back to the Dip-S#!+s at the first shop any more! I used to work part time at a machine shop ( I'm not a machinest, but I machined my own parts there and I know my way around a machine shop pretty good) and if you let shotty work like that go out, you would be unemployed!

Anyways I'm picking up the reworked head Friday. Now to get the head and cam in!

So Madjack is in Ocala, FL! fukkn pimp im in summerfield/belleview. I go to the k-mart on saturday nights. you go up there?


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

i see.

we are sending one of our race cams back to have it get the hardened coating so we can run the solid lifters

we were the fastest car on the track this past satursay andsomething happened and both rocker studs on #2 ripped the threads right out of the head, never had that happen before

Bob:

Ouch, that's not good!

Which head was that on and what spring were you using?

You might want to go ahead and Heli-Coil all the stud. The threads are actually stronger with the Heli-Coils, since they have a larger contact area than the stock threads. This is commonly done with aluminum heads that are using higher spring rates.

Oedwards:

I don't go out there too often. We are trying to get the monthly meets going here again though. The meets are the Saturday of the third full week of each month, that would be the 27th this month. We meet at the Chic-fi-lay on SR200. We'll usually post up a thread in the SouthEast Regional Forums.

Hell yea dude, I will defiantly have to bring my cavy out.. If i could get it to stop eating cv axles.


- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs

we are going to heli coil them this week, those were stock springs, woops

we are installing the good springs this week as well


tore it apart today no damage to pistons/rods/valves/ or head found 3 collapsed lifters though. the clips and springs are completely gonenow i gotta tear the oil pan off to find the parts

I went to Fastenal and got some internal C-Clips to replace the wire retainer clips. I forgot which ones I got, IIRC, they were the 5/8", the 16mm weren't in stock, they need to be special ordered. Those were on the hydraulic rollers, though they are probably the same on the flat tappet lifters.

hopefully this is the last week with hydraulics, the cam should be back in to run the solid's next week

If you don't ind, what kind of numbers did you have on the hydraulic to be the fastest!?!

I can only imagine what you'll do with the solids!!

Careful, you might end up like Raymond Soos did! No one wanting to race because you out class them!!

I also realize it's not just the motor, but the chassis and the drive train that make a car fast, so you definitely must have a good set-up!

well we had some different people drive my car at the end of last year, we put like 6 different drivers in it

every single one said that our car had the most power they have ever seen but the gearing was all wrong

so this winter i built a trans, brought our final gear from a 5.17 to a 5.84 (raised it 1400 RPM at teh end of the striaghts) and that has been the ticket to sucess. of course you have seen our chassis is built good and i have a college degree in race cars and have just about mastered FWD oval track setups

last weekend on a 1/4 mile high bank oval we were turning 15.7 second laps with the 99 bottom end, 92 head, our .450 cam... carb and distributor

this week we are taking the weber redline 32/36 DGV (175 CFM) off and putting on a barry grant holley 500 HAHAHAHAHAHA let er fly

Will you be on the same 1/4 mile high bank track? I think the 350 might be a bit more resposive, though the 500 will have all the top end you could want! Either way, sounds like fun!

we are off this weekend, mgiht go race my old track, a 3/8 mile flat track, next weekend is a 1/3 mile medium bank

got it together and running last night, new sbc lifters and valve springs, i just heli coiled the studs that pulled out for now. runs good, lets see if it lasts

If you access, I'd love to hear and see it running! Raymond Soos' sounded great at 8k rpm, now to hear at a more reasonable (Yeah Right!) rpm.

spun a rod bearing on lap 4, at least i think i did, it is knocking awful loud, we will pull it apart tomorrow

ARRRG! Was this on another stock bottom end? If so I can scan the pages of the build guide and get them posted up.

Before that what kind of rpm were you turning?

BTW, I've found one hardcopy if you wish, Number 20 on this list(if it's still there!). I did a search for "Chevrolet Power Catalog 6th Edition" this is the one published in 1988, the later edition didn't have the 2.0L build in it.

this is a bone stock 99 bottom end that has my race cam and flat tappet lifters in it. motor had 1xx,xxx, miles on it.

we have a custom shaved race crank we will pull out of our race motor and toss that in,

we were only turning 6200

#4 rod bearing is gone, looks like there was smome crap left over from the lifters exploding last week, i thought i got it all but i missed some, it is almost all back together

I cant wait to see you get this stuff figured out. Power and durability would be fun! The only LN2 I have right now is in a buick im trying to sell lol. But eventually I would like a cavy with the LN2 and a 5spd. Its easier to make power in the DOHCs(in the works in building 2 now), I want a challenge. Hopefully soon after the other 2 builds Im going to get an LN2 from the junkyard and start a build up, Ill get the car later. Anyways good luck I cant wait to see the results. I love reading about these engines for some reason.