I did have a 2000 sunfire sedan with the 2200SFI.

Now, I have a 1994 GMC Sonoma 2.2L with a 5 speed. I know I'm "on the wrong forum" but you guys seem to know the most about 2.2s and performance, so I figured I'd ask here.
And yes, I've tried S10Forum and stuff.

I have to put a clutch in my truck , and I plan on rebuilding it sometime. It has 221,801 kms on it right now, and it runs just as good as the 2000 sunfire I had, with 99,000kms.

It doesn't knock or anything.

Doesn't burn oil or coolant.

I had initially planned on turbocharging my truck. However I got ripped off on a Mitsubishi TD05H on eBay, and am still trying to get my money back.

I would like to do some modifications to the engine. Not right away, but later when I get the trucks exterior done and the clutch in.

I seen something on here about 350 rocker arm conversion. Whats involved with that?

There was some website that sold performance parts for the 2.2, its j-body perfomance or something??

What else can I do? If I go to put pistons and rings and stuff in it, should I get an aftermarket cam?

There was a thread on here once about a guy with a vette going to build a 3.8V6 supercharger kit for the 2.2, did it ever pan out? I cannot find the thread.
I think supercharging would be a easier route to go. I have some ideas on how to get more fuel into the truck.

I know its a truck but...

Alright guys... You helped me, so let's show the same for this guy. Okay?

To get the ball rollin', here's a few favored mods so far:

Doug Anderson's Guide to the history & make-up of the LN2.

Changing the studs & installing Crane narrow-body gold 1.6 rockers (Listed under: 2.2L/2200 Rocker Mod).

Following the GM 2.0L Build Guide for certain tweaks that apply to the LN2 since it's based on the same block, such as the double-roller timing-chain mod.

Installing the Milodon P/N M-98 oil-pump (Stock replacement for the '90-'93 LN2) for increased oil-pressure.

Modifying LN2 lifters by replacing the two internal springs with the ones from LT-1 or LS1 lifters (Found here under: LN2/LT-1 Lifter Mod) for increased RPM valvetrain stablity.

Eagle rods (If you get crazy with dynamic compression).

Having a cam grinder regrinding your cam with a new profile. The base-circle is the same as hydra-roller Small-block Chevy cams, the stock lobe profile is much like the same found in '87-'95 GM 8th VIN-character "K" 5.7L truck/van engines, but the Lobe Displacement/separation Angle is more like a Big-block Chevy or Chevy "Stovebolt" I-6, so any lobe shape you'd find for a hydraulic-roller SBC will do (Within reason). And the most you could have the LSA/LDA changed is about 1*.

There's only one supercharger kit I've ever seen for the LN2 for use in an S-truck, but it's costly and, to tell the truth, blowers aren't the way to go with boostin' a small-displacement engine as they take about 33% of the engine's power to turn alone. A good turbo takes only about 5%, and that can be compensated for by turnin'-up the boost a bit. Try TurboS10.com to see what they have, which is alot since they're dedicated to the idea.

And (Please don't get upset with me on this one, guys) try S10Planet.com (The only other forum I subscribe to) for anything else that you may be curious about pertaining to your truck.

This is about all I can think of... Anyone else have any help to add?


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

^^^I think you start every thread you make the same......


Anyways to answer your questions:
Rocker arms are unbolt, and install new. Adjust properly, and possible valve cover modification to make them fit. They do make some noise just so you know.

JBP (J-body performance) does sell parts, through thier authorised retailers, also Howell Automotive, IPP, Summit Racing, Turbo Tech, A+ Performance, All kinds of places offer parts.

As far as I know the blower kit is yet to be complete. RSM/Z-spec also made a charger kit for the 2200, but has been long gone, you might still be able to find one on e-bay or something, but I wouldnt recomend it.

Do the 2.2 S-trucks have the cast intake mani, and side feed injectors? If so, if you are going to do much in the way of performance mods, look into the top feed conversion.

Theres plenty you can do, a quick search here will surely yeild some good results.

^Yes, John... They do use the cast intake/side-feed injector setup. The only (Supposed) difference from the J-cars of the same years is in the runner length (Trucks: Longer. J-cars: Shorter. W-cars: ?).


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

can you put in the lightweight crank pully in those s-10's? Thats a simple, mod. for about $100 that nets some gains. probably next best bang for your buck will be those rocker rollers.

If you are going to start performance mods, you probably need to decide now if you want a little or a lot more power. Because, no need in buying headers, or intakes if you will eventually go turbo since they will need changed again.

Someone chime in, but I think the stock pistons on the 2.2 ohv can take maybe 4-5 psi safely. I know 7-8 has been done before, but since i haven't seen it with my own eyes, i don't want to recommend something that causes you to blow your motor.

And if you plan to do turbo, your biggest hurdle will be changing those side feed injectors to top feed ones. I did it on my car, and had to get it custom machined since there is no 'kit' for that. Here is a link to my post i made a LONG time ago showing the outcome.

Link to thread here: Top feed conversion completed. PICS!!

Lovely work in that link, VT. But lets just say for the moment that Gearstix don't have the bucks for a turbo, and he can't get the work done for a top-feed conversion... What can he do then? (BTW: Also think in terms of ruling-out any conversion to a later OBD system, so flash-tuning may be outta the question).

There seems to be a bit of confusion about if the truck-trim LN2 can use the same lightened crank-pulley as the J-car's, but personally I don't see GM making enough efforts on it's "econobox" engines for there to be different ones from one car to another. So, yeah... Go with one. Just be sure to use the corresponding alternator pulley to prevent undercharging.

As for compression, I think the biggest hurdle found on the '94 S-truck trim LN2 is a total lack of Knock-Sensor (The J-cars got it, and did the W-cars). For some reason GM felt it neccessary to omit it on the truck versions that year because (And I'm only making an educated guess here) between a copression of 8.89:1, an aluminum head, a vacuum-solenoid controled EGR system & a 4.10 gear ratio (With the automatics, and the towing package) it seemed that all was done that could be done to insure it'd be fine on 87-octane (Not!) while seeing the type of duty a 4-cyl truck may see by a "bought-new" owner. Of course, once it saw duty under the foot of a ignorant owner ("I changed the oil 30,000mi ago!") all becomes of no-help as it flat-out refuses to be pushed too hard by bucking from the high level of detonation it sees on anything less than 90-octane points. That's just my experience with it, so swaping-in tighter slugs (Higher compression pistons) will just exassberate it (Make it worse) without a PROM (Programable Read-Only Memory) reprogram. Same goes for installing a turbo, since a turbo just pumps more air in & all that air results in a tighter compression when it's compressed.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

Nickelin Dimer wrote:There seems to be a bit of confusion about if the truck-trim LN2 can use the same lightened crank-pulley as the J-car's, but personally I don't see GM making enough efforts on it's "econobox" engines for there to be different ones from one car to another. So, yeah... Go with one. Just be sure to use the corresponding alternator pulley to prevent undercharging.

I believe there was one that was the same diameter, just lightened. That would be what I would go with so you don't have to mess with different belt sizes, and alternator pulleys, etc, but it's probably also less of a hp gain.

As I say that, i went and tried to find a link. I thought the RK sport one was not underdrive, but it is based on their install instructions.

And the ASP one, sold here based on the description is also underdrive, but the description also says more power to rear wheels, which the cavalier and sunfire are front wheel drive, so that might be a generic description.

Maybe someone can chime in who has bought one. I do remember maybe 2 years ago finding one that was simply lightened. Can't find it now.

ASP pulley is the same one RKSport sold, so did Mantapart, and from what I've seen J-Tuners/Cav-Conn was also. It IS underdriven.
I've heard of people using the S10 pulley before with no problems.
I wouldn't worry too much about it being underdriven, unless you have high electrical requirements, weak arms, or a sub-par cooling system.




11 speaker JL Audio stereo setup for sale:
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/audio/52021/

Wow lots of info.
I had originally planned on going with a 6.2L diesel conversion but I don't really feel like messing with it, its alot of work.
I've read a few topics on S10Forum about people asking if they can use cavalier 2.2s in there s-series, trucks, I think its possible but you have to do some kind of cooling mod or something.

As for computer tuning for my truck, I can send the computer into
http://www.wait4meperformance.com/

My truck has a metal intake manifold.

I will have a rather decent size stereo, (2500-3000+ watts depending on what amp I buy) so I will be running a 200-250 amp alternator. I know this will be added drag on the 2.2.

I had originally planned on turbocharging it, and using two additional injectors for added fuel (it was some kinda product I was shown on S10Forum, could probably find what it was called) but I got ripped off on the Mitsubishi TD05H I bought on ebay. I don't really feel like spending 1000s on a turbo. Plus I'd need to make a exhaust manifold that will work with the turbo.. (and a cavy turbo manifold wont work due to steering shaft)

I emailed JBP about what I had planned to do, and what he would reccomend.. but no email back yet.

I don't know where I could get the cam reground. I know my city has no machine shop.

I'm thinking of pulling the engine out when I go to do the clutch. I would really like to take the exhaust manifold off and such, and paint the block.
However my auto shop teacher said don't pull the engine apart until I have to.

My truck has a 3.73 rear end. I migt swap it out to a Ford Explorer 8.8 4x4 rear end so the axle shafts are equal length, and get one with a posi.

"Doug Anderson's Guide to the history & make-up of the LN2." and "GM 2.0L Build Guide" are these books?

I'm just trying to make it more powerful. I would do a V8 conversion but the price of gas sucks. Plus I'm sure the 2.2 would be cheaper to run than a V8.

If I could only make it sound better. I'd like to have a low rumble, not a high rasp. I've seen a few videos on youtube, one exhaust I like the setup but when he reved it up it started popping and stuff when the engine was winding down... I didn't like that too much. Most of the exhaust is off the truck. The exhaust manifold is there, and theres a pipe that goes to the cat. The rest I took off cause the cat and muffler are shot.

Ive got a '94 automatic w/ the towing-package 4.10 gears, and it makes a good difference in performance compared to whatever the standard gears are. You don't need to swap a Ford axle in, either. Just install the limited-slip differential from a 4th-gen F-body (Camaro, Firebird), preferably the Zexel-Torsen type as opposed to the locker, and you'll be fine.

As for the cooling-system deal, when the LN2 was put into the S-truck a slightly different head-gasket was used to redirect coolant so it didn't flow straight from the waterpump output to the thermostat, and so it would thuroughly cool the engine properly. The difference was a few blocked passages at one end of the gasket. The pre-'98 J-car version had them at the bellhousing end (Where the transaxle bolts up) and the truck version had them had the crank-snout end (Where the pully bolts up). A simple change to the proper gasket, corresponding to application of the engine (J-car vs. S-truck) corrects this, as well as location of the thermostat housing on the head (Same deal). The heads from J-car to S-truck are the same. Just be sure to check Doug Anderson's guide to learn when & how. Oh yeah, and the manifolds are different between the truck & car apps too.

And those guides have links, if someone would be kind enough to put them up since I can't. Speaking of links, try these sites:

Turbos10.com: For ready-made turbo kits for the S-truck up to 600hp.

s10planet.com: For others who build & love the S-truck.

As for the exhaust, just install a 2" (In/Out) Walker Dynomax "Turbo" muffler with an offset outlet. I did that on my truck & it made a good difference in sound & performance (Deeper, lil' better low-end & mileage).

Also: check-out a thread here titled "Building a Better LN2". Many here are posting their build-ups of this engine & it's becoming a source of suggestions & guidelines for how to.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".