I switched over to synthetic oil (Mobile 1) about 10,000km go after going boosted. When I changed my oil (regular oil) after going boosted. I drained the oil in the car and there was probably about 4 litres drained out of the car. So not much was burnt during the 5000km between the oil change.
Yesterday is the second oil change I have done since being boosted. When I drained the oil yesterday there was probably about 3 Litres give or take there that I drained out of the car. So it seems to have burnt ALOT more oil. This is something that I wasnt to aware of.
The car just rolled over 140,000km and I only usually check my oil 1-2 times between oil changes and it's been fine. But stupid me I didnt check it this time b/c I figured that mobile 1 oil is better then regular oil so it shouldnt burn as much.
The car has run regular 5w-30 GM oil since new(i got it changed at the dealer drive through every 5000km) but have started to do it myself with mobile 1 since going boosted with a GM filter. I figured running synthetic would be better since being boosted and protect the motor better.
When i switched over to synthetic I did a engine flush and everything before pouring in the synthetic oil. The oil was clean and almost looked like water it was so clean. But after changing it yesterday and doing a startup test then shutting it off to check the oil it wasnt as clean. More yellow in color.
My dad said that if you synthetic you should run it since day one when the car is new. If not it will burn it a little faster. But I guess my question is. Am I waisting my money on running synthetic? I wasnt aware my car was burning that much oil between oil changes.
Any input would be appriciated.
Oil doesn't "burn" per say. You are probably losing oil because you don't have a restrictor in your oil feed line and you are blowing oil past the seals and into the exhaust. You theoretically shouldn't lose any oil over the course of an oil change, minus the little bit that slips past your rings as they wear out.
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Shifted wrote: You theoretically shouldn't lose any oil over the course of an oil change, minus the little bit that slips past your rings as they wear out.
I laughed when I read this.. you are completely 100% right but its funny because VW (and a few other companies) say its normal to loose 1 qt every 1000 miles... which with a little simple math......
Take a 1.8T engine
4.5 qts + 5000 mile oil change interval - 1qt every 1000 miles = real bad things
LOL
anywyas back on topic
Darkstars wrote:Shifted wrote: You theoretically shouldn't lose any oil over the course of an oil change, minus the little bit that slips past your rings as they wear out.
I laughed when I read this.. you are completely 100% right but its funny because VW (and a few other companies) say its normal to loose 1 qt every 1000 miles... which with a little simple math......
Take a 1.8T engine
4.5 qts + 5000 mile oil change interval - 1qt every 1000 miles = real bad things
LOL
anywyas back on topic
That's funny. I literally started lol ing as i read that comment.
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to my understanding switching to synthetic won't hurt an engine thats high mileage,, its switching back to conventional oil after running synthetic that can hurt seals,, but i believe synthetic oils are smaller on the molecular level than a conventional oil,,, maybe this is causing you to lose oil,, bad rings+smaller oil molecules=more oil is being lost
So was it bad switching to synthetic? I thought I was doing my motor a favor after becoming boosted. Should I switch back?
Also another reason I wanted to go synthetic is b/c at my apartment I dont have a plug-in. So when it gets cold out like -25 celcius w/wind chill feeling like -30 . It would make the car start a little easier then conventional 5w-30 then hearing the errrrrr errrr errrr bang bang bang until the oil gets flowing on the cold winter mornings.
Should I switch back? It has only been 10,000km on mobile 1.
Regards,
Synthetic is unquestionable better then convential. The moecules are not smaller becasue its synthetic, thats based on the viscosity (0-40, 5-30, 10-30, 5-20, etc. etc.) Synthetic is more uniform in molucule size, all moliculous are the same, convential is natural so the molucles vary in size, some are smaller then they should be. Synthetic holds up beat to heat and breakdown then convential... the only advantage to conventual is that its cheaper, synthetic is better in every other aspect. Its common for synthetics to have more additives and detergents then convential as well (common = not always, just generally speaking)
As far as switching back and forth... they make synthetic blend, which is just that, a blend of synthetic and non synthetic.... so obviously you can switch back and forth.
to answer your question somewhat simply, no car engine should be burning oil. Something is wrong and I highly doubt it has anything to do with switching to synthetic. You just went turbo so I would check your turbo feed and return lines for leakage. If thats good and you bought a used turbo it might be what shifted said and your turbo needs to be rebuilt. If everything in your turbo system checks out I would check the engine block for signs of oil dripping down, that could indicate a bad gasket or crank seal. Finally if everything else seems ok, then it's probably wear on your pistons and you might need a rebuild.
The synthetic is probably cleaning out the old oil that was clogging the leaks.
MIne leaks badly, threw the drain plug, and the pan and one side (by the gasket up top). I placed a new gasket on the pan, and a new plug, and boom problem solved
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Answer: synthetic oil will not burn faster than conventional oil. The opposite is true.
darestie wrote:to answer your question somewhat simply, no car engine should be burning oil. Something is wrong and I highly doubt it has anything to do with switching to synthetic. You just went turbo so I would check your turbo feed and return lines for leakage. If thats good and you bought a used turbo it might be what shifted said and your turbo needs to be rebuilt. If everything in your turbo system checks out I would check the engine block for signs of oil dripping down, that could indicate a bad gasket or crank seal. Finally if everything else seems ok, then it's probably wear on your pistons and you might need a rebuild.
Im not running turbo. Im running the GM S/C kit. I dont have any leaks under the car. Oil pan and plug do not leak. I make sure of that with every oil change. I take a good look under the car for leaks.
Your probably getting oil blow by on the rings. Like stated above many times.
Do a compression test, and see if you have any bad rings.
Synthetic or Conventional oil....can be blended, switch back and forth, and any combination there of.
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Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
imo compression tests are kidna useless, they show if there is a problem and that about it, compression test wont tell you anythign about the problem.
Cylinder leak down test is the way to, if anythign is leaking out of the cylinder from anywhere a leakdown test with show where its going
GM says it normal to use a qt every 3000 MI. ( at least in SI it does.) i use 1-2 every 3-5 K... i usaly have M1 15W50 in it to help keep it down (my valve seals dont like me)
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Darkstars wrote:imo compression tests are kidna useless, they show if there is a problem and that about it, compression test wont tell you anythign about the problem.
Cylinder leak down test is the way to, if anythign is leaking out of the cylinder from anywhere a leakdown test with show where its going
Yes but it a quick and dirty way to say...Hey something is @!#$ up or not before you put forth more effort.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- LD9 wrote:Darkstars wrote:imo compression tests are kidna useless, they show if there is a problem and that about it, compression test wont tell you anythign about the problem.
Cylinder leak down test is the way to, if anythign is leaking out of the cylinder from anywhere a leakdown test with show where its going
Yes but it a quick and dirty way to say...Hey something is @!#$ up or not before you put forth more effort.
not trying to be a smart ass or anything becasue this is a legitmate question..... have you ever done a leak down test?
with a compression tester, you basically take the spark plug out, thread in the adapter, hook it up to the gauge and crank the motor over
leakdown test it hooks up just like a compression tester, but you put the cylinder on TDC compression, then you hold the crank with a socket on the bolt (if need be) and hook up compressed air.
The compression test is quick and easy but the leak down test only adds on literally a couple minuets to the work required on each cylinder.
Obviously there is no right or wrong here, its a matter of opinion but I'd rather to the far better test and spend an extra 10 minuets total of my time.
Taetsch Z-24 wrote:GM says it normal to use a qt every 3000 MI. ( at least in SI it does.) i use 1-2 every 3-5 K... i usaly have M1 15W50 in it to help keep it down (my valve seals dont like me)
Chris
i started running mobil1 when i got my car too and i also use a qt. every few k's.. i also have small oil build up around the cam-covers(ld9)
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The way I always learned it was that due to the molecular structure of synthetic it'll lubricate better because all the molecules are the same size. Basically, on the molecular level it doesn't clump up like regular oil. The downside of this is if you have cracks in seals and rings and such, synthetic can find it's way through easier. So, on an engine with higher miles that's been run on regular oil all of it's life, and then starts burning synthetic after it's put in..... i'd say it's natural.
