i ressently done the swap for a intake 2.3lt on my 2.4tl .. everythings is running weel , even for the cel light , but there's one thing ... When I was starting my engine with the original intake the rpm was running up intl it got to 2000 rpm ... but with the intake of the 2.3 it's running up to 3000 rpm .... is threre a way to get it back to 2000 rpm with this intake or it's normal ? thanks in advance for the reply
well first off that swap in my opinion isn't worth the trouble. the gains i saw when i did it were minimal at best. but for it to work right you have to be certain
that there are no vacum leaks. and you HAVE to use an adapter flange. that should solve the idle problem
dumbest mod ever wait it's not a mod it's just dumb putting that heavy aluminum manifold on the 2.4 head is so dumb WOW
well thanks for the reply jacob ... did you make the swap ???? I will see it at the tracks next week ... i did 15.74 whit my PCM control modul and with a exausth .. thats it
Seemed to make a difference in my motor. As far as your problem I would check for vaccum leaks.
smokeysyoa .. I have no leak that's for sure ... but I ask just for the fun ... because my car is running very well with this swap,,, no cel on... and I like the sound of my car ... anyway if you have some tips let me know
Honestly, you need to fix whatever problem was making it idle at 2000 rpm before the manifold swap. It shouldn't have been higher than 1000, no matter what. Still shouldn't be, you have/had/have vacuum leaks somewhere, and/or a bad idle air control valve.
yeah... ive done the swap... when my engine is cold it idles at 1100 RPM... when it gets to operating temp it idles at 800 - 900 ...
Check for vaccum leaks, and make sure you plugged the big port on the bottom... according to quad4forums.com its useless...
what TB are you running... the best one to use is off a 95 Quad 4 LO 2.3 (95 Cavy Z, 95 Sunfire GT, 95 Grand Am, Etc...)
You also need to have an adaptor flange, and 2 gaskets... go
http://www.quad4forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3252
and see if you have everything on the list.... (you need to sign up if you don't already have a quad4forums account)
then go
http://www.quad4forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11595
and read up on that thread (my thread on the installation, and questions asked and answered)
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 24, 2007 7:06 AM
what I meen is only when I start my engine ... it goes down after and run around 900- 1000
For the tb it came with the intake . The guy that sold me the intake told me that it came from a Beretta GTZ .. I can I see with kind of tb is on my intake ... I notice that's a bigger one .. but is it a LO or HO ?
i'll post pics
All tbs are 56 MM except the 2.4 one which is 52 mm
There are 4 TBs in question here... the 2.4 one can work but will need heavy modifications so its doubtful that is the one you have...
The one on the left is the Stock 2.4 - the right is 95 2.3 (there was never an HO TB in 95... only this one) ... as you can see the 95 TB is the closest one to the 2.4 one...
if you do have the one on the right... (or any tb that is not the stock 2.4 one) you use the sensors made for that TB, and not your 2.4 ones....
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Also do you have the phenolic adapter illustrated here?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Monday, September 24, 2007 1:21 PM
- Attachments
- throttle bodys.jpg (35k)
I have the good tb it was fitting well ... but I din't put the phenolic adapter ... is it suppose to make a difference ??
if you notice ... your head has B shaped ports
Notice the how it curves in at the top...
the 2.3 HO mani has oval ports
----
The adapter up close looks like this
It transitions the air flow from oval to B shaped... it also keeps the intake Mani cooler by not allowing heat to transfer at the contact point...
your right ... were can I by this and for how mutch
alright .. thanks a lot for the info ... I just opened a acount on quad4forum ... I will maybe see you there
i am IMCensored1 over there...
Yeah,
The HO manifold needs a little TLC on the ports to get things to line up.
Here's mine,
Otherwise, the spacers are the way to go.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Mastin where did you get that flange? Did you just modify the 2.3 one or make a whole new one?
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Actually,
I bought it from Kevin 'secret cam' Bordeaux.
Then our buddy Paul N/A Madness, sand blasted the internals, shaved and polished it up for me.
Not sure who did the work, but they hacked off the whole front end on the mani, and welded in that whole section.
It reminded me what Induction Dynamics did with their $1200 monster manifold.
Kicker now is getting it on the car.
I the pipes and SMG tb ready to go on the car.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
i'd still use a spacer because of the heat transfer... the stock 2.4 Mani is plastic and inherently resistant to heat... the spacer is plastic and also resistant to heat and doesn't transfer as much to the metal manifold, keeping it cooler
I want to get rid of my spacer b/c I want to smooth out the transition and I want to P&P the head. You really can't open up the spacer without messing with all the transition stuff.
Mastin what gasket are you using? My biggest problem is its hard to open up the head without a gasket to work off of. At least the way I know of porting and port matching. Anyone have any insight? I am going N/A so managing the airflow into the engine is very important, at least more important then FI guys.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
Well,
For the manifold, I"m using the 2.3L gaskets, really sharp kitchen scissors, and a lot of dremeling.
As for the head,
I guess the biggest problem comes with the upper part of the intake opening, because the injector sits right behind it.
And if ya take away too much material then some real issues come up.
The other part is, the ports are about as large as you wanna go, if you use the 2.4L intake gasket anyway.
I think most just make it smooth, then scuff it slightly to help with the mixing or whatever the terminology for it is.
Or like when I had my original HO mani, just port down on the bottom portion and left the humps alone.
So, there's really no gasket you can put on there and use to port that I know of,
Just gonna have to kinda make marks on where you want to get to, grind away slowly and get the results you need.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Yea, I think I am just going to smooth out the transitions and call it good. Its been a while since I had the HO mani off my car, so I don't remember how well they matched up and how well the spacer matched the head. Thanks for the help.
PSN ID: Phatchance249
I had the same Prob. all the vac. lines were tight and sealed . if your using the adapters check thos gaskets the gasket that was beteween the adapter and the head was crack so i had to replace it and it solved the prob.
its still suck in are so its vac leak idk if this will help you or not but it help me.
99z for 2015.. I'm back bitches
for my car I didn't use the adaptor ... I spook with my friend who did the swap with me ( is a mechanic ) and told me that is normal ..its the iac that control this with the computer ... At first I'd use the iac from the tb 2.4 lt ..and it was worst .. but with the 2.3 iac its better and seem to get better everyday ... seem that the computer is getting the new iac
