does the royal purple oil seriously add horsepower, how?
If that works how does the royal purple transmission fluid work ?
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
No.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Royal Purple is designed for race applications, and probably isn't the best thing to put in your Cavalier. Just stick with a nice synthetic.
I thought they had one for race apps and one for street apps too?
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
I've not seen it, but I've also not looked, so I guess there could be.
I actualy just switched to royal purple from mobile 1, and I can honestly say the car does seem to run smoother. I mainly just wanted to try it out, and I know alot of you wont believe it but it seems to make the car run better.
Im not saying that it added horsepower, just saying the motor seems to run a bit better. And alot of you will say its not worth it but Im trying to keep my motor in the best of shape, and hell its only a few dollars more per oil change so why not.
http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/auto.html
Motor Oil» Royal Purple Motor Oil is specially formulated multi-viscosity and straight grades for use in gasoline and diesel engines of all types - from cars and trucks to SUVs, motorcycles and boats. API / ILSAC Certified.
Racing Oil» Royal Purple XPR - Extreme Performance and Racing Oil A family of oils formulated to produce winning results on the race track and is safe enough to use in your daily commuter car.
and so on.. if you go to the page posted above you will see all of the products that royal purple offers. To me the motor oil is non race applications while the racing oil is for race applications as you stated.
I'll try it out soon. I'm at about 48,500 and i'd switch around 50,000 miles. I'll repost later.
Also if you check the page they show pictures of the engine inside magnified to show unsmooth surfaces then it shows how bad it can get, and then it of course shows a extremely smooth surface intended to show that royal purple works, but go figure, everyone builds there product up.
I'll letcha know. I might change oil sooner just to see how it actually works. If that works i'd switch the transmission fluid as well. Taking care of a car is the #1 priority !!
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
Royal Purple is crap. I am one of the many turbo guys who gave it a try and found that it cokes up extremely bad, extremely fast. It won't touch my engine any time soon.
M1 FTW in the engine and trans.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
RFOGALX wrote:does the royal purple oil seriously add horsepower, how?
Yes you will have more HP(this has been throughly DYNO-Proven again and again) - you won't "make more HP," just loose less though engine friction. That also has a effect of helping your economy.
RFOGALX wrote:If that works how does the royal purple transmission fluid work ?
It works exactly like any other ATF works. It probably lubricates things better. I have no experience with the RP ATF fluid, so I cannot specifically comment or confirm except to say that I'd expect alot from it given my other experiences with it. RP also offers "Purple Ice" which is a nice radiator additive too. They offer really any lubricant you could want(gear lube, chassis lube, etc) but who know if those would do much for you. Doubtful.
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Royal Purple is crap. I am one of the many turbo guys who gave it a try and found that it cokes up extremely bad, extremely fast. It won't touch my engine any time soon.
M1 FTW in the engine and trans.
You're #$%&ing crazy. Maybe you used the race-only application(It specifically says that it is intended for ONE RACE ONLY - then you must change it!!). If you cannot read - that is your own fault. Of course that is an assumption on my part.
I use the standard Royal Purple intended for long term(15K miles) street use. It is the best motor oil I've ever used. It last a long time, lubricates great, transfers heat more effectively, reduces friction considerably(this is where claims of increased horsepower and economy come in - your engine doesn't actually produce more power but rather loses less HP through friction - which effectively gives you more usable HP and better economy).
It reduces engine internal wear through MUCH higher load capacity. It eliminates dry starts since it actually stays on metal surfaces(yes I tested this - it works). There IS a slight (aka not huge) power increase in using it - and I was actually switching from Mobile 1(I used it when it still was a true synthetic). I'm sure the difference is even greater switching from standard oil. It does also tend to keep your engine internals cleaner(however because of this you may want to change your oil sooner than usual after first switching to it if you have alot of miles when switching because it will clean things that have been accumulating).
I've even accidentally found success with it in unusual ways. My brother had an old Chevy Celebrity with a 2.5L OHV (aka Iron Duke) Somehow he managed to get a slightly bent push rod(which for some reason he never decided to replace). That made his engine rather noisy. Anyways one day he wanted to change his oil and i had some RP on hand so I let him use it. While no substitute for actual mechanical repair - it made his push rod inaudible(the stuff has a crazy load bearing capacity lol).
My buddy had an old riding lawn mover. If you tried to put this POS thing in gear without near full throttle, you would always kill it. One day I came over and he had just accidentally rolled it down a hill - lol. Anyways he managed to dump its oil in the process and asked if I had any. I did of course - RP. We actually wasted the best motor oil that you can buy(IMO) on a old junky riding lawn mower. And much to our surprise... It instantly sounded and performed different. You could actually put it in gear with nearly no throttle at all and it did fine. It accelerated better and all that. It just plain worked ALOT better. But I guess riders(esp this thing) don't make a ton of HP to start with - so a little improvement is quite noticeable. Of course the engine being quite old would have naturally had a lot of internal friction - friction to loose - so that probably helped alot as well.
It's the only oil I'm ever gonna use.
As for you mentioning it for turbo use - well it can stand alot higher temps than dino oil can - so you won't have to worry about it cooking in your turbocharger(of course using a turbo timer should take care of this as well). I have used it in turbo applications(my own included obviously) and can testify no problems with its use. One could even theorize(I have no proof of this) that it could even help to spool your turbo a little faster since it does result in less friction between moving parts. I'll have to put that theory to the test some day(on someone else's turbo car - my cars will use nothing but RP so I'll have no basis for comparison).
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:It won't touch my engine any time soon.
Top eight finalists used Royal Purple oil in their engine - maybe they know a little something that you don't.
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
ok, you are compareing royal purple to oil that is already burned out in your lawn mower. of course there will bean improvement. as far as the top eight finalst thing. I am willing to bet it has something to do with sponsership.
also, by quoting anything on thier advertisement, you are a tool. of course a company will tell you ANYTHING to get you to buy. just like all those intakes that gaurantee a 20hp increase and that retarted tornado thing that guarantees a gas milage increase.
I have tried royal purple, red line, synthetic, regular oil with lucas additives, slick 50, and the no name stuff you can get for like a dollar a quart.
I to would feel a little bit if a difference. but track times NEVER showed it. and if I would lf lost a race before the fancy oil, I would of lost it after to.
I have also ran motors on the cheap @!#$ for over 220,000miles.
so honestly, I would rather just stick to the cheap @!#$. I have tried almost every other combination, and I just don't see the purpose.
------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------
when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
motor oil is motor oil. do some work better than others, i think so. do synthetics protect better than dino oil, i believe so.
i have been running castrol syntec in mine sine i have had it. do i think its freed up horsepower... i dont know. the motor has alot of miles on it so i want to take care of it as best i can, so i put the good stuff in it.
my boss data logged his truck before and after an oil change. went from normal dino oil to syntec and there was a power increase logged. i still take it with a bit of a grain of salt as there can be alot of different factors that change between log runs. regardless i believe there is a slight increase in a gain to be had.
regardless of what type of oil you use, synthetic or dino, changing it on time is always the best thing you can do. changing it frequently and on time is a better solution than putting in synthetic and race application oil over dino oil.
thats my opinion at least.
1997 RedR - ZedR
I use it and it works great for me. And yes it says on everybottle one race application. I only run about 50 laps on a 3rd mile so i strech it out every other week and it works great. Never had a problem. And it's the only racing oil I use anymore.
RP is not a bad oil, I used it before and came to the conclusion I'm not using it again unless it is free. I used 5w30 and when I checked the oil, i noticed that i had to add every so often (something I never had to do before). Turns out I was not the only one, my friend's Ls1 Firebird notice oil burn up too.
I'm liking Q-S & Pennzoil synthetics.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Bastardking3000 wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Royal Purple is crap. I am one of the many turbo guys who gave it a try and found that it cokes up extremely bad, extremely fast. It won't touch my engine any time soon.
M1 FTW in the engine and trans.
You're #$%&ing crazy. Maybe you used the race-only application(It specifically says that it is intended for ONE RACE ONLY - then you must change it!!). If you cannot read - that is your own fault. Of course that is an assumption on my part.
No...I didn't use the race stuff moron. I think it is quite obvious that I can read. Maybe it's the fact that RP burns up extremely fast in high heat applications, like turbo cars.
Oh and as for your top 8 guys, apparently you can't read at all. That's from a Royal Purple sponsored event and posted on the Royal Purple website.
God your nieve if you think anything found there can be believed. Maybe you need to learn to read, especially independent reviews. People like you are a companies best friend. You believe all their lies and then spread it as gospel. You must also believe that the turbonator works too. Right?
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Bastardking3000 wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Royal Purple is crap. I am one of the many turbo guys who gave it a try and found that it cokes up extremely bad, extremely fast. It won't touch my engine any time soon.
M1 FTW in the engine and trans.
You're #$%&ing crazy. Maybe you used the race-only application(It specifically says that it is intended for ONE RACE ONLY - then you must change it!!). If you cannot read - that is your own fault. Of course that is an assumption on my part.
No...I didn't use the race stuff moron. I think it is quite obvious that I can read. Maybe it's the fact that RP burns up extremely fast in high heat applications, like turbo cars.
Oh and as for your top 8 guys, apparently you can't read at all. That's from a Royal Purple sponsored event and posted on the Royal Purple website.
God your nieve if you think anything found there can be believed. Maybe you need to learn to read, especially independent reviews. People like you are a companies best friend. You believe all their lies and then spread it as gospel. You must also believe that the turbonator works too. Right?
The Turbonator doesn't work, WHAT!?!?!? What about the Easter Bunny?
___________________________________________________________________
Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Downpipe w/ Cutout | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:
God your nieve if you think anything found there can be believed. Maybe you need to learn to read, especially independent reviews. People like you are a companies best friend. You believe all their lies and then spread it as gospel. You must also believe that the turbonator works too. Right?
BLASPHEMY!!!!
BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------
when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Bastardking3000 wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Royal Purple is crap. I am one of the many turbo guys who gave it a try and found that it cokes up extremely bad, extremely fast. It won't touch my engine any time soon.
M1 FTW in the engine and trans.
You're #$%&ing crazy. Maybe you used the race-only application(It specifically says that it is intended for ONE RACE ONLY - then you must change it!!). If you cannot read - that is your own fault. Of course that is an assumption on my part.
No...I didn't use the race stuff moron. I think it is quite obvious that I can read. Maybe it's the fact that RP burns up extremely fast in high heat applications, like turbo cars.
It burns up fast in turbo cars? Can you provide any evidence to back this up?... Didn't think so. You must think that you're the only guy to ever have turbocharged a car. I've never had this problem on any vehicle of mine or anyone elses vehicle that I've boosted. As for high heat production - that is a direct function of how much power you are making though internal combustion. I can't help but think that the guys in that competition - making more power than you or I can dream of making - are also producing more heat with their engines than you or I.
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Oh and as for your top 8 guys, apparently you can't read at all. That's from a Royal Purple sponsored event and posted on the Royal Purple website.
God your nieve if you think anything found there can be believed. Maybe you need to learn to read, especially independent reviews. People like you are a companies best friend. You believe all their lies and then spread it as gospel. You must also believe that the turbonator works too. Right?
No I still think that YOU need to learn to read. That was a
Popular Hot Rodding event - with money on the line... awarded to the winners from Popular Hot Rodding. If your're one of those contestents - I think you're gonna use whatever damm oil that you think works the best. The first and second place where 1pt apart. There gonna use every advantage for every HP they can get. As it where - the "top 8 finalists" all happened to be using RP, not necessarily every contestant.
Also - RP is PROVEN to work. The "tornado" is PROVEN to not work. There in lies the difference. I'm not buying something simply because of what it says online thank you.
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:RP is not a bad oil, I used it before and came to the conclusion I'm not using it again unless it is free. I used 5w30 and when I checked the oil, i noticed that i had to add every so often (something I never had to do before). Turns out I was not the only one, my friend's Ls1 Firebird notice oil burn up too.
I'm liking Q-S & Pennzoil synthetics.
Yes you will loose oil at first if your oil seals are accustomed to conventional and you switch to sythetic. But that will change with time.
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
OHV notec wrote:
You do realize that chart is comparing different oil weights for different oils? Really its better to compare 10w30 to 10w30 or 0w30 to 0w30 etc etc. I'd also like to see some other things on that chart such as film strength, friction coefficients, NOACK volatility, and oxidation resistance.
Also, out of curiousity where did that chart originate?
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
Bastardking3000 wrote:OHV notec wrote:
You do realize that chart is comparing different oil weights for different oils? Really its better to compare 10w30 to 10w30 or 0w30 to 0w30 etc etc. I'd also like to see some other things on that chart such as film strength, friction coefficients, NOACK volatility, and oxidation resistance.
Also, out of curiousity where did that chart originate?
Yes, the different weights bugs me too, but although it will help in some categories, it will only hurt in others. I got the info from a DSM message board and made the chart, don't remember where the tests were performed. However, there's plenty of info
here (numerical comparisons start at pg 151) if you feel like making some comparisons.
I'm not taking any sides here, because I'm not a chemist or materials engineer, but I do have a couple common sense observations:
The guy whos boss made back to back pulls and saw a gain, gains would have been seen by putting in the same brand and type that was in there before, seeing as new oil will obviously be better than old used junk...
I'd also like to comment on the "8 of the top 10"...All they have to do is sponsor everyone who places in the top 10 the previous year, and if you think the builders will turn down $10k or so from company A to use their oil which may possibly lose them 1-2 hp from company B's you're nuts.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:RP is not a bad oil, I used it before and came to the conclusion I'm not using it again unless it is free. I used 5w30 and when I checked the oil, i noticed that i had to add every so often (something I never had to do before). Turns out I was not the only one, my friend's Ls1 Firebird notice oil burn up too.
I'm liking Q-S & Pennzoil synthetics.
Yes you will loose oil at first if your oil seals are accustomed to conventional and you switch to sythetic. But that will change with time.
You (should) not loose oil with switch over, unless you redline through every gear. Also, who said I was using convectional oil? I've been using Mobil-1since 1000 miles. I used RP at about 15K mile interval. Also my engine does not burn oil, when I put in R-P it did and so did my friend's Firebird w/Ls1. Those were my experiences with this oil. My conclusion is written on the quote.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
you know, if I was to come up with my own brand of oil, weather it was better than brand X or not, doctor up a few tests to make mine look a little better, pay off some scientist to say it works, drop huge sponsorships on some racers to just say that they use it.....
and even give it a cool color and put it in a cool container, mabey with holograhs on the front or something.....
not only would I make millions, but I would have people like Bastardking3000 swining from my nuts all day long.
this is starting to remoind me of a conversation I overheard on a bus one day. this guy had just baught a 2008 dodge ram full size and was talking about putting 24" rims on it and had half the people on the bus mesmorised about how much he knew about synthetics. but in reality, all you would have to do is read some of the ads in motortrend and you would already know everything he was talking about. kind of made me sick. I diddn't even open my mouth just cause I diddn't want to have to deal with the bull@!#$.
point still stands, I have run motors well over 200k miles on cheap conventional. and I have never experienced a measurable difference in preformance from RP or anything else for that matter
------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------
when you beat someone in a civic people wine and make excuses
when you beat someone in a cavalier they pull over and check under thier hoods
i use royal purple porducts they are the @!#$ i will not use any thing
but royal purple in my 95 Z24 HO
NUTCASE . wrote:you know, if I was to come up with my own brand of oil, weather it was better than brand X or not, doctor up a few tests to make mine look a little better, pay off some scientist to say it works, drop huge sponsorships on some racers to just say that they use it.....
and even give it a cool color and put it in a cool container, mabey with holograhs on the front or something.....
not only would I make millions, but I would have people like Bastardking3000 swining from my nuts all day long.
I think not. Your gay fantasies of my hands all over your nuts aside(not that I can blame you - I am a powerful man-magnet
) - I'm not as easily swayed by ads and self-promotions as you may think. Assuming such things will accomplish nothing except to reassure yourself that you're right about what you believe.
I love the line of thinking that you seem to have -
SURELY any test that reveals something positive about any product has clearly been funded by that products manufacturer and the results have been altered. No uninterested party ever does real unbiased independent testing. There is no such thing as a actual good product in any field.
^^^^^^^^
Following this kind of "logic," surely Hahn Racecraft's claims about engines with their turbo kits making more HP than the same engine in stock configuration - such claims are clearly BS. Anyone supporting this conclusion with any DYNO results has clearly been bribed by Hahn Racecraft. Obviously, their turbo kits do nothing else besides create cool turbocharger-related sound effects. They may even cause your car to be slower than stock - but you'll never know that since any and all testimony or testing of their products has all been falsified.
NUTCASE . wrote:point still stands, I have run motors well over 200k miles on cheap conventional. and I have never experienced a measurable difference in preformance from RP or anything else for that matter
Well who knows how far it could have gone on synthetics? But of course that depends heavily on what actually eventually goes wrong on the motor. Obviously no motor oil can protect areas that are not lubricated by them. And of course in time metal stress will take its toll no matter what. Yes you CAN run some motors for many miles with regular oil - provided you stay on top of regular changes. But that doesn't mean that you couldn't potentially take them further with a premium oil. Furthermore you might also be able to take even less reliable engines further than otherwise possible - depending on what usually goes wrong with them.
Maybe you haven't seen any difference between motor oils, but I have. It's not a substantial power difference - but it exists. I would never buy RP for such a small gain - the cost is simply not justifiable for such small gains IMO. But much more noticeable is the economy improvement. Aside from that - I buy it for the additional protection that it offers. Besides the additional film strength - say what you will about conventional oils being just as good - they cannot prevent a dry start unless you recently had the car running(and thus oil is still everywhere you would ever want it to be) - but royal purple stays on all engine surfaces(which I personally confirmed - but
surely RP is paying me to say this) so it can. Dry starts cause more wear than basically everything else combined(assuming normally driven engines of course).
I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?
