Okay well I decided to rebuild my LD9. I jacked up the HO and noticed the water pump is leaking through its weep hole . So I started to get to it then decided I might aswell rebuild this HO. Well I will be needing all the help I can get. My cousin is lending me a cherry picker from his work and I plan to buy an engine stand at autozone. So far I gotton is I removed the passenger side engine mount and having a lil trouble getting the dam exhaust pipe off the exhaust manifold. I removed the intake manifold right now just to get something done till I get the pulley puller to remove the crank pulley. Or should I just wait till I get the LD9 out of the engine bay and on a stand? How many engine mounts are there I see two, and should I pull it out with the tranny? again i need all the help i can get, on with the pics.
this is what i have done so far. Is it normal to have oil around the intake ports? Any experts in rebuilding the HO please help? thankz
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There are two motor mounts on the passenger side of the car one upper and one lower dog bone and two tranny mounts on the passenger side on the tranny. i like to pull them with the tranny still on just makes it a little easier in the long run.
Just leave the crank pulley on tell you get the engine out it alot easyer working on and engine when its out of the car.
Yes its perfectly normal to have oil in your intake ports it comes from the pcv positive crank case ventilation nothing to worry about.
what are your plans for the new engine? boost N/A are you going with the HO or LD9?
A good saws-all will have its way with that exhaust pipe.......
^^^ if you putting exhaust on anyways that's how i would go at it.
Im cutting at it with a hack saw but I quess it needs a new blade cause I gave up after a while. I plan to go boosted but not now at least, I will be installing the pacesetter headers with a magnaflow hi flow cat and a megan m-gt muffler, already ordered the HO intake manifold from mantapart just waiting to get it, already got the 56mm tbody, not sure on what cams I should get. Also lighter crank and alternator pulley (dont have any more stereo mods cause I ripped out my amp and wires cause I want Zoom not Boom
) B&M shift plus, and as for the internals like pistons of bore size not sure cause I really dont know. About how much does it run to get a machine shop to work on the block by this I mean bore and install overbore size pistons and other stuff. New to rebuilding to please help I want to learn, thankz
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crank work boring and honing along with line bore and having the crank and rings gaped pistons installed should run about $400-$500. that's is if you not having anything special done.
not bad, now what is a good place to get some valve relief pistons, eagle rods, (and I do plan on going turbo sometime) and where can I get some good lift cams other than the secret cams or modifying the HO cams?
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I hear karo a carcustom is great help.... just tell him what your plans are and he can get the right pistons made for you.
So I should take the tranny out along with the engine?
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DOHC_tuner wrote:So I should take the tranny out along with the engine?
yes it is teh eazier.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
- (1) 2.4L on an engine stand (1) blown trans (2) good quad trans (1) eco trans = party
okay well how many mounts are there and where are they?
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bump>>>
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For an auto, it isn't necessary to pull the trans too. You just drop the oil pan and unscrew the 3 torque converter bolts.
Remove the Engine to Trans bolts,
Remove the upper and lower engine mounts
Remove the trans to engine mount on the passenger side (I believe there are 3 bolts on the trans and 3 on the block)
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
you can get away with you droping the oil pan as well. Just a little more difficult to get to but can be done. Helped a friend do it with there auto. It was allot easier to take the motor minus tranny with the auto. Standard is a little different because you just have a cv shaft run from pass to the tranny unlike auto. I'm watching and listening in on this post. I'm doing the similar cept mine isn't a HO. And I'm trying to determine what is causing me to burn oil when it hadn't been burning oil. So Wouldn't mind knowing what you have spent as you go along since other people I have seen post info hasn't really thrown any prices out with what they recommend. But thinking the same as you with going boost in the future but want something with extra ponies for the time being til I get the money for the boost.
Brian Whalen wrote:For an auto, it isn't necessary to pull the trans too. You just drop the oil pan and unscrew the 3 torque converter bolts.
Remove the Engine to Trans bolts,
Remove the upper and lower engine mounts
Remove the trans to engine mount on the passenger side (I believe there are 3 bolts on the trans and 3 on the block)
Okay thankz, now Im new to this so bare with me you mean drop the engine oil pan right and where are the 3 torque converter bolts?
Again just to clarify its a Alero with the Twin CAm not the HO, I plan to drop in some HO parts. Now I do plan to go boost so whats the safest psi level to go on boost on a stock tranny?
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where can I get a light flywheel for my LD9 Auto?
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On an auto, there isn't a flywheel. It's called a flex plate...and there is no one that I'm aware of that makes lighter flex plates for the 4t40e or 4t45e.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
Brian Whalen wrote:On an auto, there isn't a flywheel. It's called a flex plate...and there is no one that I'm aware of that makes lighter flex plates for the 4t40e or 4t45e.
You sure cause doesnt the starter spin the flywheel unless im wrong and considered a flexplate with teeth.
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It is a FLEX PLATE, it isnt a flywheel, it doesnt have a contact surface, and it is light as he)) anyway. Nobody makes a lighter flexplate. Buy a standard and buy a lighter flywheel.
Yeah Im thinking of going 5 speed. I was going to try and get it from mantapart but they still havent shipped my HO intake manifold and its been 4 weeks. Where else can I get a 5 speed Getrag tranny. Also since my Alero is a 99 do I have to get the Iszuzu 5 speed or can I still get the Getrag? thankz
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Am I suppose to remove the red bolts or the blue bolts to free the engine? Well I removed all the red bolts so now how do I free the engine, do i pry it to the pass side away from the tranny or what?
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5speed isuzu/ 2.4 engine removal. Theres one mount next to the coolant thingy. Another under that mounts near the oil pan... it looks like a dog bone. Next get the 2 tranny mounts. **auto has differnt mounts im not familar with** One is under the master cylinder and another on the opposite side under/near battery. Make sure to support it nice. I like to take it out with the axles... So you have to take the wheel off and undo a few thing I cant remember. And walla. I took mine out the bottom since I didnt have a engine puller. If you do it like that make sure you have about 3 floor jacks and decent jack stands. Mine slammed on the ground from about a foot. Nothing broke but becareful. ***Try at own RISK!!!!***
thankz for the info but yeah mines an auto and a 2.4L Alero so it doesnt have the dogbone mount. Right now I just removed 2 bolts on the flywheel, I heard it was 3 but all I found was 2, so now do I pry it to the side? I already removed all the bolts that hold the engine to anything else.
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