Well after the install a few weeks ago ive noticed something


When i first started my car today the idle was fine

Backed out of my driveway at 1500 RPM or so and then went to take off

When applying the breaks the idle didnt want to drop which made Breaking hard

I romped on it good and it seemed to get better

About 10 mins later at a stop sign she stalled on me 3 times in a row and i had a hard time taking off and is a little hard to get to start

Idle jumps at idle quite a bit

Cant seemt to find any leaks anywhere

Any Input at all is very appreciated as im lost

Thanks

Mine also did this at first. I was told by a mechanic friend that it was probably the pcm adjusting. Its been a while now and the problems seem to have gone away.

If it was indeed that ^^^, if i believe right it would work to unhook ur battery for like 15 minutes and then plug her back in.
I think. Hey, can't hurt, lol.

-Seth

sounds like you have a vacuum leak

i had the same problem too....it just idled at 1500 all the time...i moved the vaccum hoses around several times and unhooked the battery several times.....
i took the manifold off, and put it back on....connected all the hoses, connected the battery, and it was perfect....i dont know what it was...every so often it will idle high, mainly when i first start it up, or if its cold...i think it has something to do with the computer.....

Darren, was the far bolt on the left side of the engine torqued down again, I remember the night I was there we couldnt get a socket on it because i think the alternator bracket or bolt was in the way... if I remember that may need to be re torqued.


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Ya im going to have to deal with that bolt and then re torque those suckers

Thanks for the help guys

Any other input?

Well sounds like you really need to check those bolts and retorque them. Also I might add if your vac lines are not on right it could do it, and also what TB did you use? Cause if you used the 2.4 there are some mods you have to do to the TB to make it work right. Otherwise if you used the 2.3 TB make sure you got the right sensors in there. My ex's z did this kinda thing, but the check engine light came on, and it was the TPS on the TB. It made it take off in 2nd instead of 1st while the light was triped. I hope that helps, but check everything and you will find it..

^^^The only modification done to make the 2.4L TB work is expanding the top left and bottom right bolt holes.


For the alternator bolt, I just took a die grinder to the top of the bolt and cut off the extended threaded part. Now it no longer is in the way of the far left manifold bolt.

I also did the same thing with the two fuel rail bolts.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, March 20, 2007 9:17 PM

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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.

heres a better question... i was told that you just had to "slot" the bolt holes to make the 2.4l tb bolt up. is there anything else i need to handle? thanks.

Thats all I did was make the holes bigger.

Using the 2.3 TB

The weird thing is the car ran mint today

Hmmmmmm....

you need the 2.3 sensors. i had the same problem. works perfect now.




supercharged 2.4L alero
www.cardomain.com/ride/2168613

Yup i am running a 2.3 TPS and a IAC from a 95 Grand AM

Hmm well most forget that NY j-body's website had you move the TPS when using the 2.3 TB. I know a lot of people don't do it, but it does tell you to move and tab a new hole. I can't find the pic's of the page I'm talkin' about to tell you more. I'm sure you can trust me cause I've been around for a few years now...

TRD Cav Fire wrote:Hmm well most forget that NY j-body's website had you move the TPS when using the 2.3 TB. I know a lot of people don't do it, but it does tell you to move and tab a new hole. I can't find the pic's of the page I'm talkin' about to tell you more. I'm sure you can trust me cause I've been around for a few years now...

It doesn't matter. The NY-Jbody writeup was wrong in that sense. I followed that writeup exactly and was still having problems. The problem is the 2.3L TB has a blade that goes into the TPS whereas the 2.4L is shaped like a crescent moon. There is a little play with the 2.4L TPS on the 2.3L TB which doesn't provide accurate throttle position. The 2.3L sensors are what you want.


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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.

well here is a good question. i am getting ready to send my manfiold off to be polished, and what all can i loose on the manifold ot clean it up?

Well if you are a 2.4 then everything on the top of it can go. The only reason why that stuff is there is for the Water/Air/Oil seperater and the map sensor. Most of us just have the vac line go behind the runner and just let the map sensor chill behind a runner unseen. I hope that helps.

The stalling issue is a common one on many HO mani installs, fooling around with hoses, re tightening, switching sensors, many things must be tinkered with to get it to go right.



My Cav
I give up...
i'm buying a VW those people love trees, so they should love eachother too... "Andy"

There is a ground wire that needs to be connected also, if you don't have that connected things go goofy.

with the breather hose, it was suggested to go with an oil catch can by the guy who i picked it up from. if i still route the breather hose to the intake is this needed? from what i read above, i can loose everything on the manifold correct? all of the upright studs/mounting points for things? i am looking to still go with the thread in tps, just for the reason i do plan on boosting in the future, anything else i can look forward to doing now just to get it out of the way?