here is the final hybrid mix of the 2 throttle bodies I ended up with
2.3 TB body, arm, plate, stop arm, ring, TPS
2.4 throttle wheel (or rotor if you will) and cruise arm, drilled a hole for the last sensor and used piece of pipe identical to that of other small sensor.
2 bolts to intake manifold, stock throttle bracket, all sensors hooked up.
Started up fine, then if I don't try to snap the throttle shut sometimes it'll stay revving at 3k.
If i turn on the AC the revs start going wayyy up... can't hear a whistling though
Half the time it will try to incrase in revs unless I force it down by going up a gear or into 5th, then when I push in clutch instead of revs dropping it just stays where it last ways or slowly rises.
Car pulls noticably (though not tons) harder (also have short ram and motor mounts) and can squeal the tires longer into second gear but the 3k-4k rev sticking thing is reallllly annoying so if anyone knows any ways to fix the vacuum leak, much appreciated! I'm gonna try sealing the throttle body to the intake manifold better... if that doesn't work I'm going to have my throttle body bored and use a better 56mm plate. My 56mm plate (because the guy who was 'helping' me take it out of the throttle body) tried forcing the arm out without taking the plate out, so it has kind of a little opening at the end and isn't in totally striaght, although it closes fully no problem...
I would say the amount of work needed to finagle these parts together is understated in most threads. Definitely no "direct bolt on" like most ebay sellers will claim, and "20hp to the wheels!!!" should be obviously a bad exaggeration.
I'll figure it all out tomorrow when i get an intake manifold from the 2200 and a 2.3 56mm TB. its pissing me off.
yeah they look pretty much the same, I don't know what JB welding is so my sensor tube is just gasket sealed into place, but it's in there tight enough that I didn't even need to seal it. Here's what I did to get the wheel from my TB onto the other throttle body arm. (I tried using the 2.4 arm as well but it didn't take to the plate due to the way we slightly deformed the plate on accident...) and the 2.4 arm is a bit too long for the throttle body, especially if you wanna use the 2.4 TPS... plus only one bolt would hold on it the 2.3 body...
take TPS off (2 bolts)
take throttle plate out (2 bolts right on the arm, then tilt and push plate should come right out)
push arm out from TPS side (if bearings come out just pop 'em back in, I've seen some TBs where the bearings were held in nicely and some where they kept falling out...)
now with arm out of tb (get the other one out too)
the arm is flattened onto the cruise arm (or just onto the wheel depending on your tb, my cruise arm on the new tb i bought was bent like hell... great ebay description didn't mention that...) so the arm is just flattened over whichever piece is at the end, so grind it off and take everything off with some amount of wiggling.
when you grind the flattened part of... it may require substantial coercing to get it to finally separate from the cruise arm...
So you've got everything off both arms, you need to assemble the 2.3 arm with the following, drop them onto it in order, useless ring piece with the inside facing the tps side of the arm (from either), stop arm from 2.3tb make sure it's set up to touch the adjustable screw (ALTHOUGH, mine had been stripped horribly!) on the tb, then the throttle wheel (check orientation), then the cruise arm (or not) and use a "ballpeen?" ballping? hammer's round end to nail the hell out of the arm which should flatten some of it around the cruise arm and hold it in place (mine's not even that snug, it works fine)
then after you've figured out if you're gonna T the sensor port or drill a new one...
make sure bearings are in, put spring on arm, slide arm in, reattach 56mm throttle plate, reattach 2.3 tps (its actually got a spring in it so if you forget to put the spring from your old tb its no big deal)
make sure your biggest sensor port is attached (2 bolts... yours looks like the one that was on my 2.4, it faces down, the one i got with the 2.3tb faced up which didn't work for my wiring so i switched them, mine was cleaner too)...
those are the parts I'm fairly sure I got right, I don't want to try to give advice on bolting a throttle body to an intake manifold with 2 bolts because I have a vacuum leak so it clearly isn't as solid as people claim. I still have to put some gasket sealer on it, but it didn't throw a Check Engine Light or anything and I did the "15 minute obdII full scan driving procedure" thing from the NY j-body site....
so good luck. I scoffed at people who said "have your tb bored to 56mm and just use the big plate" but that would've been so much easier...
check the 2.3's IAC at all? It could be bad.
hm.... the IAT sensor? isn' that in the intake tube? if you mean the big sensor you can take off the throttle body, I'm using the one from my 2.4tb
IAC stands for idle air control valve and it opens/closes allowing air into the intake manifold to control the idle speed. First thing I would do is fix the vacuum leak since it is going to wreak havoc with the idle.
Jesse D wrote:hm.... the IAT sensor? isn' that in the intake tube? if you mean the big sensor you can take off the throttle body, I'm using the one from my 2.4tb
IAC not IAT. The IAC from the 2.3 isnt the same as the 2.4's, get one from a 2.3 LD2 (93 Achieve is what mine is from), guarentee it'll work better, I'd also get a TPS for the 2.3 as well, modifying the 2.4's sensors doesnt work as well. Again, i have a TPS from the Achieva, as well as the IAC, no issues, and i've had the TB for well over a month, no CEL, and works great.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, July 18, 2006 7:10 PM
Like I told you in the last thread (not sure if you read it or not) but save yourself some time and a big headache and go to a machine shop. Give them a stock TB and a 2.3 throttle plate. Ask them to bore out the stocker to 56mm so the 2.3 throttle plate fits. It should only cost you 1 or 2 hours of labor. Then you get a drill press, and drill out 2 holes on the stock tb so you can bolt it to the HO manifold. You also have to drill out the holes on the throttle cable bracket, and tap one hole so you can bolt the bracket to the tb.
You need a drill press and a tap and die set. If you don't have these the machine shop could do it easily.
This way you can bolt your stock TB to the HO, use all your stock sensors, and still have cruise, along with the benefits of bigger TB. If you are using your stock manifold, then just do the porting and bolt it up. You won't have any problems.
Sask GM Performance (formerly SaskJbody) president
Jesse D wrote:y (I tried using the 2.4 arm as well but it didn't take to the plate due to the way we slightly deformed the plate on accident...)
I'm guessing that's contributing to your high idle.
Sask GM Performance (formerly SaskJbody) president
). I intend to drop it on when I have some time, but here are some pics of it. Take a look and let me know if it's the same one you got.
