well my engine decided to go bang! when i was driving, then I was forced to drive home at 15 MPH with a loud clanking/knocking sound coming from my engine. The lower end was opened up, and from what i can see, the timing chain tensioner broke, and the crankshaft looks "beat " up. so im guessing theres a bent rod or something, becase the engine does run, and all 4 pistons move, it just has that loud knock and dies everytime i brake. so anyway, I have taken it off the streets until I have it fixed, needless to say my whole engine is porbably going to have to come apart.
so my question is this, what are some things I can do for performance while everythig is apart? I realize performance is not cheap, but can someone give me a list listing cheapest to most expensive modifications I can do to it? I am not performance oriented a all, so im just going to take it to a shop and have them install/do whatever they can do to it, but I need to know what to tell them to do and an average price so I dont get ripped off. thanks beforehand.
oh im talkin about the 2.2 OHV... not the 2200 or eco..
The 3400 V6 will bolt to your tranny.
SHOoff wrote:The 3400 V6 will bolt to your tranny.
and thats just about anything that will "bolt" up lol
no im not trying to be all fast either. I just want a little more acceleration and to take advantage of my motor being apart....
SHOoff wrote:The 3400 V6 will bolt to your tranny.
That's about all it'll just bolt to. I imagine everything else is a custon job like the 3800 is. Worth every penny, though.
If you want to drop the cash you can pretty much do anything to an LN2, it's just a matter of what you want, how much you want to spend, and how creative you can be.
well im just looking to take advantage of my engine being apart. I dont want boost or anything that far. all i want is to replace parts that I already need to replace, with better performance parts. I know i dont need "performance' rods since im not trying to go fast either. but can I do anything about the crankshaft? what about oil pump? basically im just looking to upgrade rather then replacing everything with stock parts again..
Check out
this thread, the fourth post down on page 12. Just follow the that as a guide and build as your budget allows. If you can afford Eagle rods and forged pistons, you can go that route, or you can do stock rods and pistons (just get them balanced). The specs on the cam came out as the best for a mild to moderate build. When you talk to Crane, to get your cam done, they'll give you directions on what info they'll need for your regrind.
On a side note, there in Orlando, you have one of the best engine shops around,
Autoshop Racing Engines. They were the 2005 Engine Masters Champions and a top finishers this year also. They can do just about any engine you want. If you need the tech help and/or can afford them, or just some top notch machine work, give them a try. I haven't called them yet, but I'm looking into having them do my head, mainly because of their flow bench capabilities. I can do a P&P myself, but I can't get that last little bit of power out of the head like they can.
Hey, Jack I checked out your post and I was wondering what kind of cost one would be looking at if they did the rebuild themselves? I'm going to have to rebuild my engine before too long. 193K mikes and she's starting to show her age. I was pretty much finished building this car but this got me thinking since I have to rebuild anyway, might as well do this.
It all depends on the parts used, the machine shop costs and just how much of the work you can do yourself. The more you can do yourself, the less it will cost. Are you going to use the stock rods? (Polished beams, shot peened, resized and balanced, to have this done, you can buy the stronger (and lighter?) Eagle rods for about the same cost. I had access to the equipment to do this for mine.) Are you going to use forged, hyperutectic or cast pistons? What type of rings sre you going to use? Molly or cast, Total Seal are standared gap, File fit or pre-gapped?
If your just going to run the motor N/A as listed, you will do fine with a hyperutectic piston and a pre-gapped molly ring set (I used Hastings pre-gapped molly), just get the motor balanced. If you decide to add a 50+HP shot of nitrous or boost it, use the Eagle rods and file fit rings on a forged piston.
Don't forget to figure in the cost of any special tool you might get and how often you would use it. Take rod and piston balancing for example, is it worth buying a digital scale and rod balancing fixture to do one motor? No, but if you already have them or access to them, that's another story.
You normally get what you pay for, but it doesn't mean you'll have a cr@&&y motor just because you didn't pay alot.
Makes sense. Basically I'm going to do everything myself except for any machining. I've considered buying a shortblock and going from there by using my stock head and rebuilding that - I can have a P&P with new valves, 3-angle, etc for $300 or less - one of the guys in my local club had his V6 done and it was something like $350 I think. But if I can rebuild cheaper than the shortblock, all the better. I like working on engines so it's no big deal.
I have access to all the tools to do the rebuild, most of which I have and what I don't, my friends have, as we all do our own engine work. The build I'm looking at is basically everything like you listed on a stock motor, and tuned with HPT to get the most out of it. This wasn't something I was going to do but I figure the paintball season will wind down towards September and over the winter I can get this done if all goes well.
