Since i installed my turbo I had to relocate my battery to the trunk of my car and im noticing the voltage hasnt been the same since and I was thinking of running a grounding kit to for the MPG and to keep the voltage up more but my battery is in my trunk. Heres my idea......run a wire from the battery to the vehicles frame or chasis......then do all my wiring under the hood like connecting it to the TB, strut towers, alternator, tranny, engine and so forth. Do this sound like a sensible idea to achieve what im looking for. The vehicle is running off a optima yellow top and when i push the clutch in the rpms drop to like 500 and seems like its going to die on me then it jumps back up suddenly. I have the battery gounded to the chassis as of now.

you know its funny you bring this up. I was going to post something eventually. I have a really shiity voltage signal to. I belive the fix is to just get a capacitor. I dont know.


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

you might just want to upgrade your wires and ring terminals, solder all the ends onto a 4 gauge wire with a propane torch. do alternator, battery, and block... should be good.

also where is your battery grounded, make sure its not on a small piece that has like 1 @!#$ty spot weld. and you probly know this alredy but sand er down real good, and use a screw/bolt that conducts electricity.

We had similar problems on our 98, so being a smartass I drove up to the welding shop and got some high arc welding cables. The kind of cables that can take 300 amps, and smile.

That solved the battery problem, and a batcap stiffened the front end voltages.

I ran 4 gauge from my trunk to under the hood and just used a scosche distribution block to make the 4 gauge split into an 8 gauge to the fuses and an 8 gauge to the starter. For the ground I also ran 4 gauge from the trunk up to under the hood and just used it to replace the stock one to the chassis and then on to the engine. No splitting/reducing for the negative. I have had absolutely no issues. Maybe that could help?

ps. I have the optima red top.

STREET ANTIX, it's coming...

Blue Splash wrote:the voltage hasnt been the same since

What was it before and what is it now?

streetantixz24 has an alright idea, but I think it would be easier and make more sense to run a wire from the battery in the trunk to the engine bay at a grounding point, like on the battery tray where it use to be, or possibly to the grounding point on the front of the tranny, then run all of the wires from there.

when i relocated my battery to the trunk i also used an optima yellow and ran 4 gauge wire. also used 2 distrubution blocks in the engine. oddly enough starts and runs way better than ever before. if you are running your system when you drive, try turning off your stereo system and drive it around and see if your still having the same problem.

could also try upgrading the alt to a higher amp output

http://www.helpelijah.com

I relocated my battery to my trunk..

I ran the power wire up front to the engine bay- used a solid dist. block for the alternator, starter, fusebox etc.. I grounded the battery in the trunk.

I noticed the voltage was pretty low for the car when idling- actually around 12.3.. I think my HO alternator has something to do w/ the low voltage too- doesnt seem to work that great @ idle..

I used HPtuners & bumped the idle up to 800 instead of 600, and now the car shows around 14.4 @ idle.

Im going to try something different w/ the ground wire in the trunk...

Would it hurt to have multiple grounds off the batt?

It wouldnt hurt to have a thousand grounds, the more the grounds, the better.

Right now i have a power wire from the alternator to the battery in the trunk and a seperate wire from the fuse box to the battery in the trunk. IM going to run the large wire to a DB block in then engine bay and then run from the db block to the fuse box, alternator, and starter. Im then going to run a 4 gauge from the negative on the battery to a DB block with a bunch of outs and run to the engine, tranny, TB, and strut tower. That should be sufficient enough im thinking. IM running alot of electrical in my car such as 3 gauges, white face gauges, dvd screen, headunit, and dvd player so ill need all the power i can get plus i wanna get better gas milage too because of the turbo and boost.

I have my battery wire going to my starter and whatever else the stock one went to. Grounded the battery in the trunk. Literally used a 1ft piece of wire to do that. Also grounded it near where the battery tray was before. Basically I have 3 total grounds in the main system. I get 14.3-14.7 on startup gradually going down to 13.7 and holding. Remember too that I have a battery cutoff as well so that is another spot for a voltage drop.

Don't know why everyone else has issues. Especially after everyone said I did it wrong. LOL.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

I ran the welding cable back from the stock battery to the stock points, and never had a problem. I have like 30lbs of cable, but the 4ga. wasn't working so well for me...



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

We run into a similar problem /w mustangs when re relocate to the trunk. The chassis has resistance greater than the wire used for ground previously. And your engine NEEDS to be grounded... its a good idea to run 2 gauge wire for the neg as well as the pos side up to the engine comparment.

If you car doesn't get ground properly you'll start having odd problems, and will through various check engine lights for sensors that arnt' really bad... just not grounded properly.

yeah, I was running into the same problem with the ground, so what I did was reground my motor like three times and then I grounded the battery to the chassis three times. Once from the top terminal and twice from the side terminal.

Scott



When I boost, you boost, we boost
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