Head work - Performance Forum

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Head work
Saturday, March 18, 2006 8:54 PM
Well i was thinking of gettin some Head work done. I was thinkin sending it out for a port and polish and gettin them to mill it for some 1mm oversized valves. Then some roller rockers and springs. Anyone have all this done? How much did it cost u about? Should i also get a cam for it and what kinda rockers should i get? The engine is goin to be turboed sometime dont know when.


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto

Re: Head work
Saturday, March 18, 2006 9:55 PM
Milling the head has nothing to do with putting bigger (oversized) valves in. Milling the head is the process of shortening the cylinder head to attempt to raise the compression. That might not be such a good idea anyways because of your timing chain.

Also, if you're going to go and replace them camshaft, I would replace your pistons and rods as well since you have to basically take apart your motor.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

Re: Head work
Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:01 PM
NJHK (The Turbo Negro) wrote:Milling the head has nothing to do with putting bigger (oversized) valves in. Milling the head is the process of shortening the cylinder head to attempt to raise the compression. That might not be such a good idea anyways because of your timing chain.

Also, if you're going to go and replace them camshaft, I would replace your pistons and rods as well since you have to basically take apart your motor.


Not so much.
You have to machine the valve seats out 1mm.
Milling the head is primarily for straightening the surface of the head. Raising the compression is a side effect. And he has an OHV engine. So the timing chain tension would not be effected.

Also, you don't have to take apart the engine to change a camshaft. If anything (I'm no expert on the ohv) you'd have to remove the engine to get access to the cam. You might want to change the internals anyways, the stock ohv bottom end isn't that strong.



Re: Head work
Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:15 PM
crap that kind slipped my mind... cams in the block not the head, what the hell was i thinkin?? anyways yea the seats gotta be bored, milled, cut bigger for the valves. what kinda affect will i see with bigger vavles, port and polish, roller rockers, and new springs?


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Re: Head work
Saturday, March 18, 2006 10:16 PM
teh Sunfires... (Tom) wrote:
NJHK (The Turbo Negro) wrote:Milling the head has nothing to do with putting bigger (oversized) valves in. Milling the head is the process of shortening the cylinder head to attempt to raise the compression. That might not be such a good idea anyways because of your timing chain.

Also, if you're going to go and replace them camshaft, I would replace your pistons and rods as well since you have to basically take apart your motor.


Not so much.
You have to machine the valve seats out 1mm.
Milling the head is primarily for straightening the surface of the head. Raising the compression is a side effect. And he has an OHV engine. So the timing chain tension would not be effected.

Also, you don't have to take apart the engine to change a camshaft. If anything (I'm no expert on the ohv) you'd have to remove the engine to get access to the cam. You might want to change the internals anyways, the stock ohv bottom end isn't that strong.


Ok, wasn't sure about the timing chain issue on the OHVs, that's why I said "might".

Thanks for the correction.



www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837

Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 6:26 AM
Alright, I swear these exact things are being discussed in like 10 other threads, but...
If you're going turbo (really doing it, not just blowing smoke), don't worry about any of that. An NA cam grind will make your turbo take an eternity to spool, the cost vs benefits of 1mm oversized valves is rediculous when you can just turn up the boost (probably around $500, which is what I was quoted for new valve seats plus the cost of the valves), and as far as springs go, you're pretty much SOL. You can try the JBP setup, but it won't work with self-guided rockers, so you would have to fabricate some guideplates, which may trigger the knock sensor under pushrod deflection. If you REALLY want new valvesprings, send me a PM. I think I know of something that will work, but all the machine work would cost quite a bit. If you just go with some 1.6:1 roller rockers on a stock valvetrain, it would probably be your best bet for a turbo motor.
Now, headwork, good idea. Polish up those combustion chambers to help combat preignition under boost, deshroud the valves for better flow, polish the exhaust runners, and then leave it alone Luckily boosted motors don't need to be that technical



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 7:33 AM
so i should just get p&p and stock valves and 1.6:1 roller rockers and leave it alone? What kinda affect will i see with this


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 7:12 PM
anyone???


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 9:10 PM
P&P w/ stainless valves (they will take the added heat better) & 1.6:1 rockers. You might get a little kick in the pants with this, but nothing fantasmic (you're not going to see great gains on an NA LN2...not a streetable one anyway). Add the boost and feel the POWER.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 10:23 PM
boost is possible by the end of this summer.... 2 jobs can do wonders


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Re: Head work
Sunday, March 19, 2006 11:19 PM
ok so whats the difference from the JP0548 - CompCams 1.6:1 Magnum Roller Rockers for (2.2L LN2) and the JP0549 - CompCams 1.6:1 Stud Mounted Extrude Honed Aluminum Rockers for (2.2L LN2) besides the $200 difference? and should i go ahead and up grade the lifters and pushrods while im at it??


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto

Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 6:43 AM
One is made from aluminim, the other is steel, and the aluminum ones have needle bearing fulcrums for reduced friction. Check out the recent thread about roller rockers for info on how to get the good ones for ~$100. Upgraded lifters won't be necessary with stock springs and a stock cam. Upgraded pushrods would be a good idea, but you can get them much cheaper by having them custom made by Crane.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 1:33 PM
What post cant find it?? and how come they are cheaper if cran custom makes them?


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 3:11 PM
Here.

Re: 2.2/2200 OHV Rocker Arm List

Type that in the search. I don't know how to make the link work.



Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 3:44 PM
Josh, the valve seats have enough material for the 1mm os valves.

The SI 1mm Stainless Steel Valves will work. Karo, from Car Customs will help you if you have any questions.

As far as any questions concerning the roller rockers see my thread here.

Hope this helps!





Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 6:09 PM
MadJack wrote:Josh, the valve seats have enough material for the 1mm os valves.
Well, I'll be...Happen to know if they have enough material for +2mm
Ryan Shissler wrote:how come they are cheaper if cran custom makes them?
Because JBP makes $$$ off of things they sell, their stuff will always be more expensive becuase you now have to pay the middle-man.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
Re: Head work
Monday, March 20, 2006 6:17 PM
true true


1998 Sunfire, 2.2L auto
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