ask the person you bought it from?
you have to splice into your middle map sensor wire going to the map sensor plug. it is the green wire.
so you cut that wire and run one cut end to the simulator's white wire, and then the other wire off the simulator run back to the maps sensor plug.
something like that, not sure if i got my wire colors correct. if you hook it up like that and u get a check engine light, swap the wire colors and that should take care of it.
i got a EGR simulator for sale if anyone is interested - e mail me.
DOESN'T ANYBODY USE THE SEARCH BUTTON ANYMORE!!!!!!!!!!!
Iv'e psoted this many times and nobody ever searches EGR SIM!!!!!!!
honda's are gay and over rated/modified.
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what year do you have?? I've never seen a 4 wire map, are you sure its your map??
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did you just put the tb on?? I had to use both sensors form my 2.4 tb, it idled rough and spuratic untill i put the 2.4 tps sensor on and it idles smooth. I don't think you are splicing in the right sensor. the map sensor shouldn't be attached to the tb. the map sensor has 3 wires and a small hose that runs from the sensor to the manifold. do you have an HO mani too. if you need me to I can post pics of a map sensor. yes there is two on the tb but those aren't what you tap into.
Oh and on a side note, if you don't find anything when you search try searching under archives you'll find just want you want to know.
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Boardorgohome wrote:i have a 96 2.4 and the 2.3 TB.....its the sensor right on top of the TB because i believe the one on the other side across from the throttle cable wheel is the TPS.
sounds like he had it wired to the IAC motor...... thats on the T/B....... the MAP sensor is on the manifold......
NEWBS.......
and the EGR sim was made for the 3.8l S/C engine, so the values it gives the ECM might not be 100% correct for our aplication.
best bet is to either make a relocation bracket like URWEAK and keep the EGR....... or go back to the ghetto vacuum trick I had going back in the day.....
......or if your really handy, wire in a 99 ECM and be done with it.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
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before or after you hacked up the IAC wires
but like I said..... it should keep the EGR code away, but your car will run a bit goofy from it..... You do know that the EGR code doesnt effect the way the car runs, right? Just keep it plugged in, and it shouldnt even turn on the coolant fan......
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Boardorgohome wrote:my car ran fine without any of the sensor/simulator junk. But it wont pass emissions.....99 ecu it is
Omg, it won't pass emissions. I thought you knew somebody....
if you go with the 99+ ecu then you have to install a 99+ knock sensor in which you have to weld on a larger nut or something to be able to screw the knock sensor in. I had the egr sim hooked up to my car. it ran pretty good but it ran alot better with a higher octane. I've heard that when the cel is on it could pull timing and heart performance, but I have never confirmed it. I can feel a difference between have it on and off.
newbs will never learn.
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when you switch to the 99 ECM.... look at the wire pins...... you can use one of the EGR wires (since you wont be using it anymore) as the 2nd Knock sensor wire, so you dont have to run another wire from the ECM out........ and since you have a 96, you have 3 ECM plugs..... and the 99 has only 2. You need to cut and splice the new one in.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
eh, Sunfires... (Tom) wrote:Boardorgohome wrote:my car ran fine without any of the sensor/simulator junk. But it wont pass emissions.....99 ecu it is
Omg, it won't pass emissions. I thought you knew somebody....
as far as not having a cat and taking off the egr he doesnt care....but with my year they hook up to your ecu....therfore doesnt matter if its his car even, if the ecu has a cel it wont pass....end of story
on a second note, you can shove the noob comment up your ass....i hooked up to the wrong sensor...then i fixed it and cleared my codes. the car still runs like junk with the simulator on and im 100% sure it was on right the final time. someone already said it was for the wrong car, i'll hook up the egr and let it hang there then clear the codes, it shouldnt throw a code for a few minutes so that will give him enough time to run emissions on it.
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did you install the throttle body and egr simat the same time??
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