Im going to tackle this once an for all. I made a post in another thread Im going to let that explain my thoughts on this whole topic. and why I feel so passionate about making this known.

INTAKES ARE METAL TUBES WITH A FILTER


if the gromet hole is to small make it bigger. Im pissied becuase I hate to see people get ripped off by compaines that chagre any more than 30 dollars for an intake. have you ever read there arguments for why there so expeniseve

"yeah basicly our intakes are wind tested and manufactured to perfection to get you tht extra HP"

popycosh

IF there esppically bent how come they all have to be angel the same way?

and whats more they say that they give more HP then the cheap ebay ones. you know what I bet they do...about 2 hp if that. is 180 worth 2 HP? if so then by all means.

also whats even better if you read some of the reviews on compines like weapon R they have metal crap in the angels that people have had to dremel out.

and the final argument why do people still push the expensive tube crap?

easy becuase they bought the stupid tube crap. I will gurantee that at least 90% of people who say its worth it have bought the expensive crap and are trying to prove that they havent wasted there money. guess what they did.

there is no good argument out there for expensive intakes other then CARB approved or warrinted.(if you need a warrtien on a metal tube Id be worried) other then that its all garbage.

I would post this for every intake Q if I had the time.

finial thought is if you spend more then 40 dollars on an intake you have been ripped off period.

ok so with that said I Want to show people how to do this.

step 1

you need to purchase an intake off of ebay. your looking for one thats

cheap
has good seller feedback
has a GM IAT sensor hole
and looks exacatly like the one in this picture (2.4's) usually have arms on them dont worry your just looking for the bend shape.




step 2

after the intake is purchased and recived your going to want to inspect it for any problems cracks missing parts what ever.

now

step 3

remove your stock intake. since there are numorous threads on how to do this I wont post instrutions on this part.

step 4

remove the stock sensor and put it in the new intake it should fit fine if it doesnt leave hooriable feedback. this is the only real crucial part of the intake. if they get this wrong then there just a scam.



if it doesnt fit dont freat you can always make the hole bigger. if its to larg tape over the hole and drill an new one. easy as pie.

step 5

now this part will only pertain to you if you have a mounting bracket on your intake. if not skip to 6. ok if you do have it you need to follow these directions to the T...ok are you ready.
1
saw it off.......
thats it.



step 6

ok now that you just spent 10 whole minutes breaking your back its time for the fun part. put it on.

just slip the side with the IAT farthest over the throttle bodie and clamp it down with a bracket that they probably sent you. ( if they didnt send you enough brackets send them bad feedback)

step 7

ok now that the intake is on its time to deal with those two pesky holes left open. your going to want to do one of two things. ethier tape over the holes and put filters on the tube that leads to the head and the small tube that is located to the right of your head.




or put tubes from the intake to the sensors either way not that hard.

and yes if you need to drive to the auto store youll be fine without ethier of those with filters on them.

step 8

this is what it should look like when its done. all sexy and sweet

can you tell I just cleaned the filter with K&N cleaner

step 9

with everything on start up the car and make sure everything works. if you dont see any codes take it for a drive and vualah.
now if you see a code and you notice the car bogin or if you stall out then your IAT is unhooked. Go back and make sure it is pluged in.
there is really only this one thing that the intake can affect if there is something eles wrong you need to check other problems.

step 10

ok now that your done there is one last really important thing that you must not forget.












Happy dance

yeah thats Right I was jammin while I was working.


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

ok I pushed post instead of preview can someone edit this so

this one replaces one of the repaeats


and this is the finished product




"boobs now with Riboflabin"

you forget to integrate beer into the procedure. at least 3 times, not including before and after.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

19, I drink "soda"


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

that intake sits damn close to the (+) battery terminal, no fear of arcing with the intake bouncing around?

^^^^^^otherwise very nice

cmunn99gt wrote:that intake sits damn close to the (+) battery terminal, no fear of arcing with the intake bouncing around?

Zip Ties are your friend.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

the + battery post has a cover over it. so don't worry about "welding" anything. lol

and you don't need that filter on the fpr. just block it off or route vacuum line to the intake manifold.

I give an A+ man, Good work on the install and avoiding high cost.

I still love my aem..but thats just me.

just a note, you can fail emissions for having a crank case filter like that venting into the air, instead of it being sent through the intake track to be burnt in the engine.



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Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:

cmunn99gt wrote:that intake sits damn close to the (+) battery terminal, no fear of arcing with the intake bouncing around?

Zip Ties are your friend.

there normaly taped off so thers no worries also I am movign the BAT to the trunk so again no worries.

urweak wrote:just a note, you can fail emissions for having a crank case filter like that venting into the air, instead of it being sent through the intake track to be burnt in the engine.

I love PA there very lineant


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

Thats great and all but I see 2 little problems. Not huge ones and they can be fixed easy enough. First, that little hard plastic tube is for the fuel presure regulator and it does need to be hooked to the intake so it can adjust the fuel presure in relation to the amount of vaccum it sees ( yes it does indeed get vaccum where its hooked up to )
Second, That tube that you capped off with another breather should also have vaccum sorce hooked to it as its basicly your PCV valve. By disconecting it from its vaccum sorce you are allowing all those nasty blow by gases remain in the engine ( a not so great thing to do ) Hook up those 2 lines to the intake like they are supposed to be and your golden. Good job on the cheepy how to.




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

Jackalope wrote:Thats great and all but I see 2 little problems. Not huge ones and they can be fixed easy enough. First, that little hard plastic tube is for the fuel presure regulator and it does need to be hooked to the intake so it can adjust the fuel presure in relation to the amount of vaccum it sees ( yes it does indeed get vaccum where its hooked up to )
Second, That tube that you capped off with another breather should also have vaccum sorce hooked to it as its basicly your PCV valve. By disconecting it from its vaccum sorce you are allowing all those nasty blow by gases remain in the engine ( a not so great thing to do ) Hook up those 2 lines to the intake like they are supposed to be and your golden. Good job on the cheepy how to.

I appreciate the input. I do know about the FPR line. If im not mistaken there are other readings its getting for its info and if not it would be reading atmosphereic which means that It would be giving maxium pressure. which is at least safe just means Im running rich. Ill see what I can do.

as for the PCV I never new I'll have to see what I can do the car runs fine and Ive never seen any performance changes what so ever ill look into it

for those that are reading that want to do this. my car has been running fine for a year and a half with thsi setup. although I think I might just add a few pics due to jackalopes englightenment. thanks man.


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

For the fpr vacuum tube, there's a nipple where you can hook it on the intake manifold, just remove the cap and plug the tube :

Cool Ghost I didn't think of that !

Jcavi, Yes it will run fine but that top filter on the valve cover should be covered with oil on the inside. Right ? Thats because the crankcase presure is eventualy building up to the point where it can vent itself out. Its just better to have it vaccumed out thats all.
But it is a very good idea, go get yourself a cookie !




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

Da Ghost (Qc) wrote:For the fpr vacuum tube, there's a nipple where you can hook it on the intake manifold, just remove the cap and plug the tube :

beautiful

Jackalope wrote:Cool Ghost I didn't think of that !

Jcavi, Yes it will run fine but that top filter on the valve cover should be covered with oil on the inside. Right ? Thats because the crankcase presure is eventualy building up to the point where it can vent itself out. Its just better to have it vaccumed out thats all.
But it is a very good idea, go get yourself a cookie !

yup.

and have you seen my happy dance do you really think I could be that happy WITHOUT a cookie


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

my g/fs eco has had the fpr connected like in GHOST's pic since rk came out with their intake for the eco's

and the tube in the cam cover is fine with a breather filter , but emissions wise if they are picky it really need to be in the tube for the intake

So chocolet chip or Oreo ?

And it may be fine but I prefer the "Better safe then sorry " route myself.




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

at least we have something to post when noobs ask the intake Q


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

as long as the air going in is filtered , its all good

Jcavi wrote:

urweak wrote:just a note, you can fail emissions for having a crank case filter like that venting into the air, instead of it being sent through the intake track to be burnt in the engine.

I love PA there very lineant

I live in pittsburgh PA, and i know people who have been failed for that. So maybe you have it easier over in Montgomery County then here in Allegany County.



Click the banner to enter the best Quad4 & Twin Cam site on the internet.

What seller did you use.

1cavy wrote:What seller did you use.

I cant rember it was a long time ago. just try and match up the pics to the one on the post. make sure that there are rubber boosts and clamps in the pic and youll be fine.

urweak wrote:

Jcavi wrote:

urweak wrote:just a note, you can fail emissions for
having a crank case filter like that venting into the air, instead of it being sent through the intake track to be burnt in the engine.

I love PA there very lineant

I live in pittsburgh PA, and i know people who have been failed for that. So maybe you have it easier over in Montgomery County then here in Allegany County.

I guess



hey by the way if anyone does this post pics so people can refference. make sure to include happy dance


"boobs now with Riboflabin"

nice job......... Jcavi and the rest of you with the 'tweaks'........




SPD RCR Z - '02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT - '04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI - '78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap

Team effort, thats why Iike it here so much! We may piss each other off sometimes but noones beyond offering a helping hand and noones beyond takeing the help.




Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.