hey as most of you know i have everything for my rebuild except a crankshaft, i see JBP has one where you send yours in and they lighten the stock one by 3-4lbs and make it stronger. question is do i really need this and how do they make it stronger and lighten it by 3-4lbs at the same time. i know this will make acceleration on the low gears and rpm's faster correct? anbody else make any decent cranks if this one isnt any good?
They probably knife edge and nitride the crank.
Nitriding increases surface strength.
another question i wanna make sure i get answered is, is sending my crank to JBP really going to make it alot stronger or could i get by with using the stock one? just trying to save some cash and widdle out what will need replaced and what i could still use.
id say honestly get it knife edged and balanced along with the rotating assembly and you should be fine
The one, the only, ME.
I would do it since you have it all apart anyway, and you will never need to upgrade it(hopefully).
2012 HD VRSCF
2010 Ford Explorer
2006 Ford Ranger
2004 Chevy Cavalier
JBP's doe's great work,but if you want a complete forged crank contact
www.scatcrankshafts.com
they'll make you a crankshaft there not cheap, but it will be top notch quality
Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Stock!!!!!
If you are going for strength, I think that the a stock 2.4 crank that has been balanced would be fine for atleast 400hp & 400 tq for atleast 7200rpm.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
jsunfireGT2000 wrote:another question i wanna make sure i get answered is, is sending my crank to JBP really going to make it alot stronger or could i get by with using the stock one? just trying to save some cash and widdle out what will need replaced and what i could still use.
To date, and I have been in the J-body "scene" for 11 years, I have never ever heard of anyone, anywhere breaking a crankshaft.
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JBP does very high quality work on cranks for a very fair price.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
protomec wrote:jsunfireGT2000 wrote:another question i wanna make sure i get answered is, is sending my crank to JBP really going to make it alot stronger or could i get by with using the stock one? just trying to save some cash and widdle out what will need replaced and what i could still use.
To date, and I have been in the J-body "scene" for 11 years, I have never ever heard of anyone, anywhere breaking a crankshaft.
I have only heard of one stock crank breaking.
I would say if your going to do a total build, get your crank knife edge and balanced.
Quote:
JBP does very high quality work on cranks for a very fair price.
That maybe true, but there are other places that do the same work and cheaper. I have priced having my 2.4 crank knifed edged and nitrated locally and it was roughly the same price without the core and shipping charges
Jason
99 Z24
Racers Edge
Johnny Mack Turbo Systems
Engineered Performance
04eco (theN/Aautoone) wrote: get it knife edged and balanced along with the rotating assembly and you should be fine
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
MD MotorSports wrote:I have only heard of one stock crank breaking.
I would say if your going to do a total build, get your crank knife edge and balanced.
How much power was the car making and/or what was the RPM limit on the engine? Or did the crank break from poor tuning?
There was a guy on here who tore up his 2.2 crank on nitrous, but that was because the nitrous solenoid was stuck open.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
Adler wrote:MD MotorSports wrote:I have only heard of one stock crank breaking.
I would say if your going to do a total build, get your crank knife edge and balanced.
How much power was the car making and/or what was the RPM limit on the engine? Or did the crank break from poor tuning?
There was a guy on here who tore up his 2.2 crank on nitrous, but that was because the nitrous solenoid was stuck open.
I do not know all that. It was posted on the org a year or so ago.
Adler wrote:MD MotorSports wrote:I have only heard of one stock crank breaking.
I would say if your going to do a total build, get your crank knife edge and balanced.
How much power was the car making and/or what was the RPM limit on the engine? Or did the crank break from poor tuning?
There was a guy on here who tore up his 2.2 crank on nitrous, but that was because the nitrous solenoid was stuck open.
im hijacking my own thread but what tuning would be needed to make sure the crank didnt break? this whole internals dead is new to me but im getting better and will get alot more familiar as the rebuild progresses.
jsunfireGT2000 wrote:Adler wrote:MD MotorSports wrote:I have only heard of one stock crank breaking.
I would say if your going to do a total build, get your crank knife edge and balanced.
How much power was the car making and/or what was the RPM limit on the engine? Or did the crank break from poor tuning?
There was a guy on here who tore up his 2.2 crank on nitrous, but that was because the nitrous solenoid was stuck open.
im hijacking my own thread but what tuning would be needed to make sure the crank didnt break? this whole internals dead is new to me but im getting better and will get alot more familiar as the rebuild progresses.
It really is not a matter of tuning. The stock LD9 crank is strong from the factory. If you build a motor that can produce enough power you might break one. The highest HP number I know of in a LD9 is 404hp and 410tq. I think and maybe Adler or someone can comfirm he was on a stock crank (maybe it was knife edged).
jsunfireGT2000 wrote:im hijacking my own thread but what tuning would be needed to make sure the crank didnt break? this whole internals dead is new to me but im getting better and will get alot more familiar as the rebuild progresses.
I would think that too much dentonation would kill the crank.
MD MotorSports wrote:
The highest HP number I know of in a LD9 is 404hp and 410tq. I think and maybe Adler or someone can comfirm he was on a stock crank (maybe it was knife edged).
Yea he was on a stock crank that had been cryotreated and there was very little knife edging done on the crank.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
As far as crank work is concerned, here is my view.
When building a motor for power, why take the time to pull the crank and the rotating assembly out, pay to have it cryo'd, why stay stock? is this someone who was just looking to see how much power he could put down with a "stock" crank? Why not have it knife-edged, balanced, and lightened a bit to actually help make more power and well, also to at least have a good reason to tear it all down.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:As far as crank work is concerned, here is my view.
When building a motor for power, why take the time to pull the crank and the rotating assembly out, pay to have it cryo'd, why stay stock? is this someone who was just looking to see how much power he could put down with a "stock" crank? Why not have it knife-edged, balanced, and lightened a bit to actually help make more power and well, also to at least have a good reason to tear it all down.
Because it is not cost / labor effective. For the amount of work it takes you to knife-edge a crank or pay someone to do it is not worth the 3hp gain you will get from it. Balancing it is always a good idea along with the rest of you rotating assembley parts.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
its possible to snap the crank on a 91 sunbird in half, seems i havent done it but my girlfriend did to her car, and she wonders why cars dont last for her
so basically ill be fine just installing pistons, rods and cams and leaving the stock crank in w/o any work with it? thanks guys
Skilz10179 wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:As far as crank work is concerned, here is my view.
When building a motor for power, why take the time to pull the crank and the rotating assembly out, pay to have it cryo'd, why stay stock? is this someone who was just looking to see how much power he could put down with a "stock" crank? Why not have it knife-edged, balanced, and lightened a bit to actually help make more power and well, also to at least have a good reason to tear it all down.
Because it is not cost / labor effective. For the amount of work it takes you to knife-edge a crank or pay someone to do it is not worth the 3hp gain you will get from it. Balancing it is always a good idea along with the rest of you rotating assembley parts.
It's not always about gains. You are missing my point. Suppose it sets you back a few hp. Besides, HP is useless. HP wins dyno challenges. Torque wins races. The point is, the price / time for crank work IS cost effective because you are reducing the risk of problems in your rotating assembly.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
It isnt the cranks breaking more problems with oil distribution. I have my crank balanced polished and knife cut to get better oil dispertion. Dont think I know anyone who broke a crankshaft, doesnt seem worth it to send it out, pay for shipping and machining when it can be done at most any machine shop.
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
what should i ask a machine shop in my local area to do, balance it deffinatly or do knife cut also?
jsunfireGT2000 wrote:what should i ask a machine shop in my local area to do, balance it deffinatly or do knife cut also?
Balance and chamfer the oil holes.
