I don't know which mod to go for next; either throttle body, upper and lower engine mounts, and lightweight crank and alternator pulleys or stage III cams. What do yall think, or do you have any other mods that I should go for?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Mounts, pulleys, cams, then TB(is that right ppl?)
i know the mounts are the first of things to go on to prevent the engine from moving and shaking excessively.
i would do, mounts, pulleys, port and polish and cams, then T/B..everything will start to click together...but i wouldnt just go out and buy the stage 3 cams just bc they put out most hp... the stage 2 threw lots of codes, i dont trust the stage 3.
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.6@86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
I personally wouldn't mess with the cams unless you have some way of tuning them or the fuel. Which stage 3 cams were you looking at? and where were you looking at alternater pulley's?
Whatever you decide ...good luck!
2004 Cavalier
13.2@105........
Mods...
BFG Drag Radials
Saab Turbo kit
2.5 exhaust, w/cutout
Spec Stage 2+ Clutch
from what i have read in the past the lighten alt pulleys will work wih the 3rd gen j-bodies bc 99% of them use the same alt.
MY 2003 SUNFIRE 15.6@86mph
"A N/A ecotec is not gonna give Honda's and Mitsu's that much of a run for their
money unless their blown or bottle fed.GM is still smokin crack!"
~1QWKZ24
www.streetracing.org, 08/2001
It all depends on what you're trying to achieve and what you have in mind for the engine. I wouldn't start adding mods because they were suggested to be good, and don't get the cams until you lay out a plan. Are you planning on building the motor (not just rebuilding) and gong N/A, or turbo, or s/c, or nitrous, or completely stock but with a few mods here and there? If you plan on heavy mods like turbo in the future then I wouldn't touch the cams. If you absolutely want to add a mod then I'd go with upper and lower engine mounts, always a good mod and helps to regain lost power in the driveline.
Blown.
NA; i want my engine to last another 5 years (senior year and college) and I want to rebuild most all my internals and valvetrain eventually. NA is what I want becuase your underestimated, they aren't visible mods like a turbo (when it comes to racing for money) and you get more respect having a fast NA then a fast car with Turbo.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
I dunno about that .............. when I roll into the races with my car ..... SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS PPPPSSSHHHHHHHTSTSTSTS......... I get A LOT of heads turning in my direction ......... but in canada something is up with s/c.... everyone has em .... no one is turbo ......geeze...
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
Well some people are different, I don't want people knowing I have major mods like a turbo becuase then they will underestimate me. If I challenge someone to race for money and they ask me what do I have, I can tell them minor mods (the visible ones) and they will belive me and then accept the challenge, no? Plus in Houston, Cavi's are so underestimated, like whoa.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Having a turbo or s/c doesn't always mean you'll be sacrificing reliability. I, too, am in college and I'm in the process of supercharging my Cavi. It'll definitely be a sleeper in my city and on my campus.
As for your situation, I think if you went with a full-on engine build then you might reach 170 to 180 hp Max. For an N/A build you should get a P&P head with a valve job, cams, pistons, rods, lightweight pulleys, throttle body...since you don't want to boost, up the compression of the engine. Also look into a header, cat, muffler, and piping (figure out what piping size you'd need from the mods you'll be doing).
Blown.
I already did some mods, I just got a few left. I would have gone supercharger but I can hardly find any, but all of them are hella expensive. But I think you can get more then 170, 180hp max going NA becuase just to let you know, I have an automatic with a few bolt ons and I beat a manual Si with CAI and a manual GSR with exhaust and kept up with a random Camaro.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
No, you won't get more than that. And even if you beat those cars, they, technically, should have beat you.
The mods you have done are minor compared with the work involved with a built motor. Like I stated earlier, you need to do alot of work to have a built N/A. Do some more research and see what would be a good setup for you. And for the record, with the amount of money you'll spend on a completely built motor, you could purchase a turbo or s/c kit (or piece one together yourself) and have Much better numbers. I think you have to do alot more research and alot more reading before doing any serious mods.
Blown.
Quote:
NA is what I want becuase your underestimated, they aren't visible mods like a turbo (when it comes to racing for money) and you get more respect having a fast NA then a fast car with Turbo.
very well said
N/A = da shiznit
you get alot more heads turning when you out run a boosted car in a N/A one
FACT : Statistics show that you are more likely to to be hit by lightning than to die street racing.
FACT : It is our American RIGHT to own a GUN but not to drive a car.
"Those who would sacrifice freedom for saftey deserves neither Freedom nor safety!" - Benjamin Franklin
"The real destroyer of liberties is he who spreads among them bounties, donations and benefits." -- Plutarch
Actually, I've been thinking. You can attain a large number even with N/A, but even then it still seems to me that you need to do alot more research before diving in with serious mods. Everything else still stands.
Blown.
^^ agreed....
FACT : Statistics show that you are more likely to to be hit by lightning than to die street racing.
FACT : It is our American RIGHT to own a GUN but not to drive a car.
"Those who would sacrifice freedom for saftey deserves neither Freedom nor safety!" - Benjamin Franklin
"The real destroyer of liberties is he who spreads among them bounties, donations and benefits." -- Plutarch
I know, I know.. I have most my mods in mind, but not the money. Give me another 6 to 8 months and I should be done with my car; well performance wise. Get done with the bolt on mods first then all the engine internals, and I know a mechanic that will do all my internal work for cheap. But yeah, I still have a few hours of research before I finally decide everything.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Few hours?? Took me a year to finally begin buying serious mods for my car...just something to keep in mind. But good luck with the mods; hope you come up with a good plan for yourself.
Blown.
Not just hours in one day, I mean hours every now and then (every weekend til summer) when I get the time, I stil have to worry about school and SAT's.. I want to be able to buy me a M3 when I get out of college. But thanks for the help. Oh and quick question, for engine mounts I can put in my upper by just popping the hood and my lower by raising up my car, no? Becuase that's what I heard.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Its almost that simple for the mounts. You'll have to place a jack under the engine and support the engine, remove the stock upper mount, place the new one in, and move the engine around with the jack so it sits exactly where the bolts should go. As for the lower, I'm not completely sure but I think you have to support the engine for that mount. Do a search in the performance forum, its been covered before. I plan on doing mounts as part of my winter project before I have to go back to college at the end of January.
Blown.
Ohh alright cool, thanks, I just bought a combo; lower engine mounts and upper engine inserts. I know it's not upper mounts, but it's still something, and plus it was a good deal. I think I might skip pulleys and go to cams, throttle body, then add pulleys when I rebuild my engine. In the meantime, maybe get some bucket seats, carbon fiber hood, and reduce some more wieght?
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
Waiting to put certain mods in the engine until the build starts is a good idea. To reach high horsepower goals on an N/A build requires lots of cash. But if you want a mild build with solid internal work then I think you'll be pleased. Plus, with a built motor, boost would be so sick; just something to think about. Keep in mind that with engine work (like complete engine build with head work) means you'll have to keep track of your fuel and ignition somehow.
Blown.
I forgot to add, check out the Full Ecotec Build Guide put together by NJHK at the top of this forum.
Blown.
By that I simply meant plugs and what not. For my s/c application I purchased plugs that are 1 step colder to handle the increased engine temperatures. It all depends on what you're planning on doing. You may simply keep the stock injectors and plugs or you may not.
Blown.
