what do i need w/o going forced induction

04 ecotech
auto tranny...(reason to keep below 250 at crank...dont have 15k to rebuild tranny)
right now i am at approx 120...stock.
i know the easiest way is just toss on a s/c and thats like 80 hp...but i want NA untill i get the tranny built than i am goin t3/t4 garrett
any sugestions

Thanks

add mods till you get there....

realistically there isnt like a 200hp parts list that you just look up, add, and magically its 200HP.

and just cause a supercharger says it gives you 80 hp, doesnt mean it will...


you realistically wanna do it, keep learning what mods do, add the important ones, and dyno your car really.

p.s. ecotec doesnt have an H

If you don't have 15K to rebuild the tranny, you don't have enough money to make 200 hp n/a


My Car

yeah i REALLY wanna know who told this guy you need 15K to rebuild a transmission....

a built 4t40e or 45e is about 3600 with a lsd


most n/a mods will work good with a s/c , but for a turbo some of the n/a mods youll have to take off


best is to work on suspension and brakes first , while decieding which way you want to set the motor up , then figure your mods according to that

200hp won't kill the trans. may put a hurting on the clutch but the trans and axles in our cars are beefy enough for 200hp.

Dont know if you'd hit 200 but intake, header, cams, throttle body, and exhaust would be a good start. If you didn't hit 200 you should be pretty close. 180's to maybe 190's
with tuning and some T.L.C. if not try a 25 hp shot of N.O.S. 25hp shouldn't hurt anything or need many upgarde to support it. But I'd say it should give you about 200hp
at the wheels.

good luck.



Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

Oops sorry you'll need head work too.



Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

by 15k i mean build it to be bullit proof
15k = exaguration(spelling sucks)
and the ecotec with the H.....lol...i was spelling it as echotech for a while...i isn't dat smrt with spelling lol...

i know that the s/c numbers are only estimates...but it would be close...

so would the s/c be the cheeper route to get to 200 hp?
i know i need exhaust, maybe increased fuel demand. and where would be the best place to buy said s/c...i seen them on rsm racing...but they seem a tad overpriced. I am also worried bout the whole 10:1 comp ratio and still using forced induction. i could maybe use 8 psi if i ran like 100 octane fuel...but that can get pricey...'specially at 104.9 a liter for 87 octane.


as far as 200 hp goes...its only a number...175 and above would suit me fine for now. if i got 200 well thats great.

Thanks guys

As far as a supercharger goes, you may want to look into the progress of this.
You can run 10:1 with forced induction, it just takes more tuning, more fuel, and less timing
And as said before, you don't need a bullet-proof tranny for 200whp, or 300whp for that matter.


<img src=http://hometown.aol.com/yogiandbooboo7/images/french.jpg>

thanks ... i was under the impression that the auto tranny could only take about 250. ok so that makes me feel better bout addin boost..

'less moving parts', right Event? If you want the tranny parts to last longer, it's always a good idea to upgrade if you can for longevity's sake, maybe some stainless clutch packs. But, I've never heard of anyone grenading that tranny from raw power (but I could be wrong), and if you're worried just have everything you can cryo-treated.
It's been said that the rods will only hold 250 however, but I believe that was on a shot of nitrous.


<img src=http://hometown.aol.com/yogiandbooboo7/images/french.jpg>

uh huh das rite

well how much would it cost you to go the intake, header, cams, throttle body, and exhaust route oppose to the super charger, and whats the power difference?

I am asking this cause I am pretty much stock now, so I would like to know also.

1000-1500$ vs about 2000$ +

power difference depends on what supercharger you get.

well im at about $1200 and am working on getting a 62mm TB and all my mods are in my reg. the only thing is, you will need some fuel tuning example SAFC-II or equivilent, becuase the ecotec likes to run richer with more mods, id say though, about 1500 you could see over 200 whp (my mods and a 50 shot and a 62mm TB)

dont tell him 1500 dollars. man you have to get this installed too. the tb and intake you can do yourself. but unless you have welding tools for your exhaust and head work experience this all has to be done by professionals. add 150-200 for exhaust installation and fabricating, but shop labor on your head and cam installation.

i have an ecotec as well. and it has 140hp stock. not 120. and an average of a lil over 130whp on a dyno. sometimes less though because every motor is different.

but i agree, get an intake, tb, full exhaust *header, cat, 2.25 piping, good muffler*, and the cams.

but my question is do you have to get cams? could I upgrade my ignition instead and run 89 octane or something? ie : new denso plugs, coils, msd DIS-II

and so by resetting your ecu fuel levels with an aPexi SAFC-II how much more effiencent does it make your mods?


AkA joe m.

Ricer ELIMINATOR!

cams will give the biggest gain and make the other mods work better.



Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.

but like i was saying, unless you can do most of it you have to be at the mercy of people who can


AkA joe m.

Ricer ELIMINATOR!

the cams make all the intake and exhaust mods worth while. it would be like adding 3" exhaust all the way back and then having a stock 88 accord muffler with a 3/4 tailpipe on it, obviously restrictive. If u want the most outa ure TB, ported mani, intake, header, exhaust, then u want cams that are gunna be able to move the air in and outa there faster........

now i would like to think u can get real damn close to 200 w/o having to p&p.......if u go too aggressive with the p&p w/o going forced its gunna hurt the cars times and accels, then boost will be the only way.....

id say a good start on the way to 200 would be....

Ported intake manifold
62mm TB
Ceramic header or Stainless
upper lower motor mounts (torque)
light crank pully (torque)
Injectors (not sure on what the eco runs, and how they react to mods)
Full 2.25 or 2.5 exhaust, depends on if u go forced, and how much
Fuel Pressure Riser
Intake and Exhaust cams
Apexi Safc
MSD Dis 2
B&M Shift plus for ecos yet ? (cause uve got auto)

Ull be running pretty heavy duty after that, get blown and ull be set....

the route i plan on going eventually is the same as what you r currently looking at,
the things i have found so far are the basic... i/h/e, port and polish, upgraded fuel rail and bigger injectors, big bore throttle body, cams and adjustable cam gears, and the cheapest horsepower available n2o. then if you don't want to spend anymore you can start with weight reduction cause i believe it works out to every 100 pounds is a tenth of a second quarter mile time. Also you can gain a half a second quarter mile time off of suspension mods alone like upper and lower motor mounts, better springs and struts, rear sway bar, and a front strut tower bar. Weight reduction and suspension work don't mess with your tranny at all.

only thing i wanna know, what would a rear swaybar have to do with people who run the quarter mile?

Knocking time off quarter mile with suspension mods requires a combination of parts not just a lowering kit. They all work off of each other.

04silvercavy wrote:Knocking time off quarter mile with suspension mods requires a combination of parts not just a lowering kit. They all work off of each other.

fact.... struts especially. bouncing around is sure to diminish traction and improve wheel hop.

Hey thanks everyone...
I was looking at the s/c kit from rsm...they come with an fmu from vortech would that do the same job as the safc i thought these units were better..another thing is, the kit they show is for the 2.4. they sell it under the eco' section. I'm kinda at a loss here i have never went forced before. also i have only built sb/bb chevys... i know most of the concepts are the same..i'm just used to getting like 50hp by changing out a carb and intake.

Does anyone have an opinion on the RSM kit?

thanks again

Nytemare wrote:Hey thanks everyone...
I was looking at the s/c kit from rsm...they come with an fmu from vortech would that do the same job as the safc i thought these units were better..another thing is, the kit they show is for the 2.4. they sell it under the eco' section. I'm kinda at a loss here i have never went forced before. also i have only built sb/bb chevys... i know most of the concepts are the same..i'm just used to getting like 50hp by changing out a carb and intake.

Does anyone have an opinion on the RSM kit?

thanks again

you are gonna get alot and i do me alot of views on that... but i;d reccomend checking the boost forum. plenty of posts on it there between gm supercharger vs rsm...

matter of fact, if you use the search function in that forum, and put in

GM VS RSM you should get a few hundred posts on it easy