reading more about dropping an L67 into my 99 Cavalier. I found one on ebay with everything still attached (transmission, fuel pump, etc.) for around $2000. Not going to get that one, but it gives me an idea of what I'm looking at. How much would I be looking at to get one installed? I could help out, but don't know my way around the engine well enough to do it myself. Will I have to worry about keeping traction at the front wheels with this swap?
Any additional information would be great. Went to a site for L67 swaps, but didn't see my car listed for information on swaps.
doing it yourself? you are looking at about a month of downtime on your car. having a shop do it? best of luck getting them to do it for a fair price, not tell anyone about it, and nothing bad happening to it while it's at a shop. if you want, check out Raven's cardomain that features the entire write-up with pictures. I've been studying this swap for a while and am actually considering it if i can get a better deal on shop space. I'm going to take the drivetrain situation to a different level than Raven (well a different setup basically). His cardomain is http://www.cardomain.com/id/raven_sc3800
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Expect to spend approx $5G on everything necessary, and thats not including the labour of putting it together.
Isaak wrote:Expect to spend approx $5G on everything necessary, and thats not including the labour of putting it together.
ehhhh that depends on which way you go. if you go manual, and have to have a lot of custom work done, custom flywheel, then yes. however, if you use a GTP 4spd AUTO, then you just need those inner axles and joints, and use the J body outer axles and hubs. Make a custom boot and you are good. Wiring will be a pain and you will have to figure out your own gauges because your cluster will not work with that PCM / harness.
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for the power you would be better off building up an eco and turboing it, lighter, more power, cheaper, easier
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Rodimus Prime wrote:for the power you would be better off building up an eco and turboing it, lighter, more power, cheaper, easier
are you kidding, the L67 responds to mods a hell of alot better than the ecotec does. Think of it this way.... The L67 has 240hp stock.... now think about how much boost it would take to get an ecotec up to that amount of horsepower. And the L67 isnt much heavier than the ecotec at all, especially if you get rid of the heavy 4T65HD auto and use a getrag 5-speed.
Also getting, an L67 above 240hp is very easy and cheap to start with... 3.4" pulley, 160 stat, exhaust, intake, and a DHP pcm.... you got one hell of a fast j-body. Thats just my take on it, i dont like to screw around with 4 bangers anymore.
I was thinking of doing this swap too. I'd stay auto though. I might try and use all stock parts like tranny, ecu, wiring harness, ect. I don't really care about gauges.
It's an auto.
I would do it right now but I'm not so sure on actually mounting the motor
That lower subframe seems kind of scary.
Has anyone else tried it besides raven?
"Fu'k displacement, I'd rather be blown."
can you run any aftermarket longtube header for the GTP or do you have to have custom work done on those? and yes I'd definitely go with the L67 over the L61. Both are pain in the ass swaps. Besides, a rumbling v6 in a 3rd gen is sexy.
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Spotabee Racing wrote:can you run any aftermarket longtube header for the GTP or do you have to have custom work done on those? and yes I'd definitely go with the L67 over the L61. Both are pain in the ass swaps. Besides, a rumbling v6 in a 3rd gen is sexy.
yeah, but thats why i said i need the headers for the frame, because basicly you have to cut a tunnel into the firewall to get headers to fit in there. I'm going with the SLP stainless headers on mine.
Heh, what do I know... if you can do it for less than 5, congrats, you found some awesome deals!
Quote:
Im starting on my frame in about a month, just need my headers to get started
Can you take really good pics and dementions for the subframe? Maybe that will aliviate some of my worries.
What type of metal are you welding for the frame? What type of weld are you going to do? What type of stick if your stick welding (PSI)? Good Luck!
"Fu'k displacement, I'd rather be blown."
Mawk wrote:Quote:
Im starting on my frame in about a month, just need my headers to get started
Can you take really good pics and dementions for the subframe? Maybe that will aliviate some of my worries. What type of metal are you welding for the frame? What type of weld are you going to do? What type of stick if your stick welding (PSI)? Good Luck!
I definitly plan on it. I'm going to run a huge post in photos and media for this swap. I'm using just plain ordanary steel for the frame, same stuff raven used in his. 2" square tubing is what he used i think. As far as welding im going to use a mig-welder, although i do have access to a stick-welder, we'll just have to see.
Are you staying with the 4t65e? Or putting a different tranny in? What county in PA are you from?
"Fu'k displacement, I'd rather be blown."
Mawk wrote:Are you staying with the 4t65e? Or putting a different tranny in? What county in PA are you from?
going with a 2001 getrag 5-speed from a 2.2ohv cavalier, and im from Huntingdon county, right in the middle of PA
Heh that's what I thought. I go hunting there... and in Cameron county. Didn't you say your were doing something different than Raven? If so what is it?
"Fu'k displacement, I'd rather be blown."
Mawk wrote:Heh that's what I thought. I go hunting there... and in Cameron county. Didn't you say your were doing something different than Raven? If so what is it?
the headers basicly, but hes still gonna be a step above me for right now because hes intercooled
did raven have to do the same thing with headers as you are doing? because i don't think i saw that in his writeup. i'd go intercooled. more fun.
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Just to answer some questions here...
First off if you want to run headers you will have to cut about 9 inches out of the firewall and build a tunnel to run them. The side effect of this is you will lose your heater box inside the car (no more heat).
We used steel for the sub-frame. 2"x2" square tubing with a 1/4" wall thinkness. Everythign was mig welded together. Another thing you want to watch for is to get the oil filter housing that comes off the block at a 45 degree angle (there are two designs from the factory) other wise it will not clear the frame.
Meckster: You don't need the headers to build the frame. They don't come close to it in anyway, it's just the firewall that has to be cut.
And for the power it would be better to build an eco.....No way!!!
The 3800 is such a monster of an engine that you would have to put 10X the money into the eco to even come close to putting out the same power that the 3800 will. It will also be much more reliable.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
are u talking about putting in the 3800 series II or the 3800 series II supercharged. there is a 40 hp difference.
AkA joe m.
Ricer ELIMINATOR!
you guys are making my dick hard.
Whats an estimate on the price of this swap? For the parts... and then for the work.
Wide Body Progress
Tom Sylvester wrote:Whats an estimate on the price of this swap? For the parts... and then for the work.
impossible to estimate accurately. and once again that depends on who's doing it
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im with rodimus on this one.. i know you can get 300-400 HP without much hassle on these engines but you can do the same with an eco.. and not need a new custom subframe, pcm, flywheel etc...
this swap is hella cool! dont get me wrong but if you are going for something other than WOW factor, id say stick with the eco right now. and btw the 2.0 s/c eco is rated at 205 (more like 230ish, and thats not even revved out like it should be) and thats only 35 HP less than the 3.8 s/c. but for $5000 you can have one very nice turbo kit with forged rods and pistons and be laying down well over 240 WHP..
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
