is the rocker stuck 3/8 or 7/16 ?

also I found this, will it work ? 1033-12B Chevrolet 6-Cyl. 194-292 7/16" 1.75 (taken from comp cam website)

if not, please go on the comp site and post the part number of the one which will work in my car ! (1996 2.2 ohv)

3/8, you need part # 1414-1 for singles of the magnum Comp Cam Roller rockers.

i found that buying the CCA-1414-12 kit from Summit Racing was cheaper.




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Like said above, those are cheaper from summit..

Do you need to get anything else if you buy these rockers? meaning can we just place these right in and we're good to go?









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
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2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

WHITECAVY wrote:Like said above, those are cheaper from summit..

Do you need to get anything else if you buy these rockers? meaning can we just place these right in and we're good to go?

this is the writeup i did on the rockers for ClubCav.com

Quote:

Roller rockers: Our engines have solid rocker arms which the pushrods hit and they move like divets opening and closing up the valves... 95-97 2.2L OHV engines have 1.5 ratio solid rockers and this can be improved upon with 1.6 ratio roller tip rocker arms, also known as "roller rockers". The 1.6 RR not only give your engine more lift and act like adding a mild cam to your engine, but also are roller tipped to reduce friction, the stock ones do not have roller tips... this mod will make your engine run smoother and give quicker acceleration from 3500RPM on up and also make the power kick in right away instead of a 2 second pause before the power hits on these engines. Competition cams is one brand I recommend, but the sets are only sold in sets of 8 or 12, and you only need 4, so plan on selling the extras or finding a buddy to go in with you on it. For the 95-97 2.2L you will need a set of rocker arm studs sourced from an 89 2.8 v6. However, there seem to be a few different part numbers for different style studs used in the same motor in different years, so your best bet is to order a set directly from GM with the following part number: 476530

I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Thanks man, great write up.. So I just need 4 2.8 V6 rocker arm studs, along with the roller rockers of course..

Thanks again.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Why do you only need 4 studs for an engine with 8 valves?

Are you doing a split ratio, or experiencing a major brain fart?

Roller tip rockers like you are mentioning are not going to produce more power because of the roller tip. A true roller rocker can add a little power because of the roller fulcrum.. which is where the major amount of friction takes place.



JLP
01' 5 speed Z <--- 03' 15.2 @ 90
79' Blue Monte <--- 03' 12.18 @ 110.86

SeriouZ wrote:Why do you only need 4 studs for an engine with 8 valves?

Are you doing a split ratio, or experiencing a major brain fart?

Roller tip rockers like you are mentioning are not going to produce more power because of the roller tip. A true roller rocker can add a little power because of the roller fulcrum.. which is where the major amount of friction takes place.

Exactly,, I had a brain fart lol.
Lol, thanks for bringing that up ha









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

The 95-97 2.2 has 10mm threads in the head and 3/8 thread on top of the stud, and the 98+ has 8mm threads in the head, LS1 screw in studs work very well for the 98+ engines, i have them in mine and no problems at all.

If you buy the magnum roller rocker kit for the 2.8 V6 engines you will have everything you need to do the swap.





Mike

1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!

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Crane Cams Gold Race Roller Rockers for the 2.8L V-6 will work also, and they come with the studs needed for the '97 and older motors. The part #'s are 25750-12 for the 1.5:1(stock ratio) or 25759-12 for the 1.6:1 ratio. They come in sets of 12, though. Split the cost with two other people and get two sets and all three of you get an even set.

For more info see http://www.ny-jbodies.org/library/engine/2.2/2.2rockerarm.htm.

For clearer valve lash instructions see http://www.howellautomotive.com/Howell/Store/catalog/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41_154_383&products_id=1232. Note this rocker set is for the '98+ 2200.

BTW I'm using the set from Howell on my '96 2.2L, but with some modifications to work.

i was under the impression i needed 8 of those looks like i only need 4 so around 70$ not that bad

sunstealth wrote:i was under the impression i needed 8 of those looks like i only need 4 so around 70$ not that bad

you do need 8



Kevin Johnson
Jbody Club of Alberta
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no you have 8 valves so you need 8 rocker studs.


That Crane kit is a nice setup, and has everything you need, it will make more power than the comp casm ones and is basically the same thing Howell is selling for the 98+ engines, but at 325 (summit) its kind of on the pricey side. I would go with the Comp rockers in a 1.6 ratio for alittle more power, and either get the crane rocker studs or the GM studs, and the factory 95-97 pushrod guildplate will stil work also.


Mike

1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!

1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.

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you need to get new pushrods also,because yours are worn to your old rockers. i have a set of rockers i am trying to get rid of some i got left over from buying my set if anyones interested


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BTW, Like I said, I used the Howell set($244.24), and had to get the ARP studs(Summit part #ARP-100-7221, 2pc stud set, 4 sets for $45.56) and some washers from the hardware store that are about the same thickness as the guide plates(less than $1). Although this is more than the Comp set-up, it is a little less than the Crane V-6 set.

The rockers from Howell are self guided, so don't use the guide plates with them. Just remove and discard the stock studs and guide plates and install the ARP studs with the washers (to compensate for the guide plates). Note: the washers adjacent to the head bolts must be ground on one side if you want/have to remove and/or install the head with the studs in place.

Syn i am interested in yur roller rocker depending on price in cnd $ shipped to quebec !

http://www.ny-jbodies.org/library/engine/2.2/2.2rockerarm.htm <- here is everything you need to know

written by colin b..


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email me Thysynster@aol.com, i have the 2.8 studs and everything


cavaliers been laid to rest
The saturn is being born
a new cavalier is in the mist

if your pushrods are not bent at all then why would you need to replace your stock pushrods? now i got a good deal on the comp cams pushrods so i went ahead and used those.

why are we carrying on 95-97 roller rocker and 98-02 roller rocker conversations in the same thread? someone is bound to get confused and end up buying something that won't work.




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Don't you need to upgrade the valve springs to handle the extra stress?



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theres no need to upgrade the valve springs stock is fine, if you would of read more carefully the need for new pushrods is because your old ones are worn to your old rockers.


cavaliers been laid to rest
The saturn is being born
a new cavalier is in the mist

also you can get longer pushrods to create more lift


cavaliers been laid to rest
The saturn is being born
a new cavalier is in the mist

leave your stock pushrods honestly, it's the best idea unless you are making enough power to need that length and different valve springs / retainers / valve locks... and if you do then i have those part numbers from Comp Cams.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

the pushrods might be worn to your old rocker, but if the roller rocker is new, I dont see any immediate need to replace them.

If you were buying used roller rockers, then yes I could see wanting to get new pushrods.

Its like a used set of piston rings on the cylinder wall, you can deglaze the old wall and still put the used rings back in. Provided they aren't really old, the 2 surfaces will mate again.

thats how I look at it, you can make your own call from here.

Im sure if I'm wrong, someone will correct me.


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Well you dont have to replace the pushrods, but its good insurance and they arnt that expensive to get a new set.


I have a set of the Crane ones that Howell Sells brand new never used for sale, i need longer ones for my build, paid something like 75 bucks out the door. Will let them go for 60 bucks shipped.


Mike

1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!

1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.

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Support the site that supports your habit, Go Premium.
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