since im forced to sell my Grand National, my new 05' Sunfire will be my only car. of course i cant drive anything that isnt somewhat modified, so i will be throwing some $$ at this car for added performance. my question is if i got the bolton route, will i get my moneys worth? or will i be buying parts (i assume header, catback, CAI) to only gain around 10hp and a tenth or 2 at the track?

im new to the whole modding a 4cyl thing, and dont know how well these Ecotec motors respond to basic hotrod parts. basically what i am asking is what kinds of performance gains can be seen from strictly boltons and would it be worth it to go that route, or should i just save my money and purchase a turbo kit cause im gonna be disappointed spending X dollars for minimal gains


1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

Get Suited And Boosted!

If you are going to go boosted later, then you definately should not buy most bolt on mods. Motor mounts and stuff like that are good to get anyway, but if you go turbo later, a header and CAI would just end up not being used.

How much HP do you want to get...?





4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!

how much power? not sure, but i dont want to spend a grand or more for boltons to only gain like 2 tenths

like i said im new to the 4cyl thing (previous cars include 2 Vettes, numerous fbodies, and a GN) so im not sure how this Ecotec motor will respond to boltons. if i see around a half second or so with basic mods, then i can consider it worth the money (if its less than a grand). but if the gains are less than that ill just save that said grand towards a turbo kit

one more question... when i shift hard from 1st into 2nd, the car bangs like the motor/trans is hitting something. what causes this and how can it be remedied?

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

oh, and sorry in advance for the confusion... i changed my username to TPIVETTE. for some reason, the forum decided to post my real name for the last couple days instead of the one i chose


1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

tpivette wrote:how much power? not sure, but i dont want to spend a grand or more for boltons to only gain like 2 tenths

like i said im new to the 4cyl thing (previous cars include 2 Vettes, numerous fbodies, and a GN) so im not sure how this Ecotec motor will respond to boltons. if i see around a half second or so with basic mods, then i can consider it worth the money (if its less than a grand). but if the gains are less than that ill just save that said grand towards a turbo kit

one more question... when i shift hard from 1st into 2nd, the car bangs like the motor/trans is hitting something. what causes this and how can it be remedied?

better check out your trans and engine mounts

they shouldnt be bad already. my car is an 05' with only 5300 miles on it. is it possible that the mounts are just really soft from the factory and allow alot of travel during the 1-2 shift?

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

well my o4 has no travel so i would'nt think that was the case, it definately SHOULD NOT bang...

tpivette wrote:how much power? not sure, but i dont want to spend a grand or more for boltons to only gain like 2 tenths

like i said im new to the 4cyl thing (previous cars include 2 Vettes, numerous fbodies, and a GN) so im not sure how this Ecotec motor will respond to boltons. if i see around a half second or so with basic mods, then i can consider it worth the money (if its less than a grand). but if the gains are less than that ill just save that said grand towards a turbo kit

one more question... when i shift hard from 1st into 2nd, the car bangs like the motor/trans is hitting something. what causes this and how can it be remedied?

i say skip and do the major stuff first...

boltons you can get at any time, and whatnot.


if you are going boost, start now. most people plan for it and by time they reach a level to get it, theve wasted over 5K$ in the car. all of which they now have to get rid of cause headers dont fit with turbos or certain 2-300$ intakes dont work with the supercharger, etc.


some people have added 2000$ in mods to a z24, and still run 16.1's

others have added half that to a 2.2 ohv 3 speed auto and ran 15's which stock they run 17-18 seconds.


so some added 2 grand and gained a few tenths, others have added half that and shaved 3 seconds.


its all in who does their research, their homework, refrain from asking "which intake is best" and start asking more tech questions to learn about their car.

some do, some dont. you;re starting new, i would learn as much as possible and do the bulk work first. g'luck

yikes, i guess i better check them then. i guess i could get them replaced/fixed under warranty, but how could i explain to the Pontiac techs that "it only happens when i shift into 2nd at 6200rpms"

theyll probably blame my driving habits and not replace them after hearing that

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

so i guess the general consensus is that i wont be pleased with basic boltons. looks like i will be shopping for a turbo kit in the near future. however, im sure there are some bolton items that can still be used with a turbo setup. im thinking a crank pulley, a short shifter, and some solid mounts are a few. any others im not aware of?

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

throttle body....

basically once you know whats in a turbo setup... if its not replaced it can be used.


some are satisfied with basic boltons. thats why my entire engine rebuild is currently N/A... cause it gets the job done. turbos are cool and all, but if i, me, personally went turbo.... i wanna be the fastest or among the fastest in the least. theres alot of turbo cars and they are barely running faster than stock.... some slower even although allegedly untuned.


granted this is my hobby, i def have a boat load more hobbies and goals, so i def dont wanna sink all my effort and funds into a single car.

so boltons are great for me.


but unless i plan to spen ALLLLOOOOOOT of money to get up withere with mike karas, karo, frank, etc... all the 11 and 12 second cars.... all the tuning, etc etc etc.... at this time i dont see a purpose for forced induction.

yeah I say get a form of boost first. i've spent loads on the mods in my reg and i've only taken off 1.1 seconds of my quarter mile time and still i can't get 14's. Granted mods work with each other but dollar for dollar if i had got a supercharger first i woulda been faster then i am now with every bolt on for cheaper.

Darksun280 wrote:yeah I say get a form of boost first. i've spent loads on the mods in my reg and i've only taken off 1.1 seconds of my quarter mile time and still i can't get 14's. Granted mods work with each other but dollar for dollar if i had got a supercharger first i woulda been faster then i am now with every bolt on for cheaper.

actually i woulda built the engine FIRST...

one rule of thumb i was taught over the last 6-7 years from all walks of automotive sports...



build the bottom end strong and it will take whatever you put on top of it.

well, its gotta be reliable and drivable on a daily basis. so a cammed, high compression N/A motor isnt for me. also, im leaving behind (2) 13 sec C4 Corvettes, a 12 sec Grand National, and a few modded 3rdgen fbodies. so this car has big shoes to fill. id say my goal would be mid - low 13s while still maintaining drivability. adding a few pounds of boost (8 - 10) seems the best way to get there to me. tuning shouldnt be a big deal, (like i said earlier ive modded a GN). however, while i know the basics, im now dealing with an OBD2 controlled 4cyl that i dont really know how to tune. are there any programs like LS1edit for Ecotecs? ive always heard that FMUs are garbage and should be avoided, and thats what generally come in turbo "kits"

i could always go the bolton route and add a small shot of N2O. if boltons could get me in the mid 14 sec range, then a 50 - 75 shot ontop of that should take me to my goal. but reliability is also an issue for me, and with the 5speed, there is always a chance i could blow a shift and grenade the motor. yes i could get a window switch etc, but thats not a 100% fail proof item

i guess im still on the fence about this one. i guess for now ill just start with the basic boltons that i KNOW transfer over if i decide to add boost down the road

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

weigh em out, make a list and then decide is what i would reccomend.

alot of people go into modding haphazzard, but with your record you are pretty seasoned and have a set goal as opposed to just "i wanna be fast"

bottle or bost both are attainable.

even N/A on a rebuild i doubt you would need that large of a cam. theres been a 2.2. ohv that was 13 second N/A although had to do some weight lightening.... with twin cam, it should be even easier.

thing is most who have bought the newer cars havent put any money into em yet.

check around, there area few boosted cars, turbo and supercharged, and some nitrous people doing those time, prob a few n/a as well.

so really you have 4 options if need be

yeah like Event said i would plan it out first but I know in my case I had a book made with the different performance routes i wanted to go and prices and such and some how Things still didnt go to plan. I wanted to build my bottom end up for boost but cost verse car down time verse how much i could realistially do myself came into play and in the end i could only get new stuff for the top end of the car and ran outta cash and time. Just off bull $hit i lost my car for three months with no beater car I'll never do that again.

Darksun280 wrote:yeah like Event said i would plan it out first... I wanted to build my bottom end up for boost but cost verse car down time verse how much i could realistially do myself came into play

its that same cost and down time why im now considering a bolton + nitrous setup over a built motor (whether it be for turbo, charger, or N/A). i could still retain stock like drivability with the bolton mods, and then spray it with a 50/75 shot to obtain my performance desires

ive been browsing the nitrous forums, reading and absorbing alot of info. seems pretty basic to get started: things like good fuel (we have 93, 94, and 100 octane unleaded in DE), colder plugs, upgraded ignition, AFPR, and your nitrous kit (im gravitating towards NX... they seem to be the most complete)

now i guess its time to get my car to a dyno and a track to record some baseline performance numbers. then i can start picking out boltons

1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/1LE
- LS1 6speed, 3.42s
ported 5.3 heads, comp 224/228 cam, boltons
(410rwhp/390rwtq)

BOOST
BOOST
BOOST
GET BLOWN MAN!!!!

tpivette wrote:
its that same cost and down time why im now considering a bolton + nitrous setup over a built motor (whether it be for turbo, charger, or N/A). i could still retain stock like drivability with the bolton mods, and then spray it with a 50/75 shot to obtain my performance desires

ive been browsing the nitrous forums, reading and absorbing alot of info. seems pretty basic to get started: things like good fuel (we have 93, 94, and 100 octane unleaded in DE), colder plugs, upgraded ignition, AFPR, and your nitrous kit (im gravitating towards NX... they seem to be the most complete)

now i guess its time to get my car to a dyno and a track to record some baseline performance numbers. then i can start picking out boltons

id say good choice. with that setup you can maintain good daily driven with the bolt-ons and easily forefill your performance needs on the track.

i would recomend talking to 04 ecotec LS Sport or Nitro <------(running low 13's) about the nitrous.

if you change your mind and go the boost route keep Shifted as your freind. he knows what he is talking about. i think ive only seen him stumped on something once. cant remember what it was though.

either way good luck with your choice and happy 13's

also remember you can get a used motor for under 200$ in many places, and then rebuilt it... no down time really.

thats what i did. http://www.angelfire.com/md/TOWSONFTBLPLYR/PROject2200.html

i'm still running my car now, but i;ve gone through that total build up without touching the original engine.

tpivette wrote:yikes, i guess i better check them then. i guess i could get them replaced/fixed under warranty, but how could i explain to the Pontiac techs that "it only happens when i shift into 2nd at 6200rpms"

theyll probably blame my driving habits and not replace them after hearing that

well dont worry about what the service advisor thinks, just tell them exactly what happens , when , besides if GM didnt want us to take it up to 6200 rpm's , then they would have placed the rev limiter at 5200 or something, so they cant hardly refuse to replace them. let me know what happens..

Yeah plan it out first. If I wanted to go turbo, the almost $800 I spent on my header would be wasted. Well almost. My father in law would probably buy it off me. Personally I want to build my engine to handle boost so I don't have any problems further down the road. I got all the stuff for my top end except for my P&P head. After that I'm going bottom end. Pistons, rods, and bearings. Then some year I'm getting a super charger. Also if you do decide to go Turbo you might wanna build up your suspension. Sway bars and strut towers. And also motor and tranny mounts.

wow 800$ for a header

also with suspension....add what you need, not just cause its there.

i see alot of people adding HUGE swaybars, and all they do is drag race... no point in having a sway bar if all you basically do is drive in a straight line.

i vote bost too. I don't think you'd be satisified with the money to performance gain ratio with going n/a.