Well, been working on this for a while, and finally ot it back last week, so figured i'd take some pics and show everyone. This is going to be matted with a jbody performance block, that is almost finished being built.
Here's the specs on the head:
ported exhaust side
1mm oversized valves
3 angle valve job
new valve seals
HD Springs (jbody performance)
Chrome Molley Steel Retainer
Chrome Molley Steel 10° Valve Locks
Anyways, here's the pics:
without flash:
intake side:
Top view:
Side of spring view:
Another:
Here is the exhaust side before:
After:
Another after:
Exhuast side:
Retainers and locks:
Ok, thats all for now.
P.S. The rust on those studs will be removed before install, incase you were wondering.
How much did that run ya?
Definitely something I'm going to do this summer. Doesn't hurt that jbodyperformance is 15 mins away from my house.
__________________________________________
Quote:
Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.
Thats some good lookin head.
what valve springs are those?
C R J wrote:How much did that run ya?
Well, i got the head remanufactured from a local place for $300, i was originally going to use mine, but messed it up. I won't go into that.
Chrome Molley Steel 10° Valve Locks: 116.00
Chrome Molley Steel Retainer: 116.00
Chrome Silicon Metal Springs: 179.20
new valve guides (head had the wrong ones) :about $35.00
3 angle valve job, redo valve seat for larger valves and install new valve guides, valves, springs and retainers: $100
exhaust ported: $160
having such great head: priceless.
haha, i couldn't help myself. I just can't wait until jbodyperformance gets the cam in for my block, so they can install it, and ship it to me. Then i can put my car back together
gee man, why didnt you get the jbody performance head as well? that head porting job looks incomplete! am i the only one that sees this?
Henry Mac wrote:gee man, why didnt you get the jbody performance head as well? that head porting job looks incomplete! am i the only one that sees this?
nope, you're not missing it, he only did the exhaust. When we looked at the size of the intake diameter, with respect to the gasket, it matched pretty closely. And, you may also be refering to it not being polished, i felt the gains in that wern't worth the effort.
VTLoki wrote:C R J wrote:How much did that run ya?
Well, i got the head remanufactured from a local place for $300, i was originally going to use mine, but messed it up. I won't go into that.
Chrome Molley Steel 10° Valve Locks: 116.00
Chrome Molley Steel Retainer: 116.00
Chrome Silicon Metal Springs: 179.20
new valve guides (head had the wrong ones) :about $35.00
3 angle valve job, redo valve seat for larger valves and install new valve guides, valves, springs and retainers: $100
exhaust ported: $160
having such great head: priceless.
haha, i couldn't help myself. I just can't wait until jbodyperformance gets the cam in for my block, so they can install it, and ship it to me. Then i can put my car back together
I forgot about the valves themself. They were $100 from
www.carcustoms.net
ehhh... aluminum head right.......? Just go out and buy some billet polish and a hard-bristle toothbrush. You should have really done the intake side too..... Why bother paying all the money to do the exhaust but not the intake? What about the pushrods too? You've upgrgaded everything to rev higher but you did not mention pushrods. You need those too. Electronics? It all just isn't making sense to me.... Personally, I would have just swapped in the 2.3 H/O since you are already running OBD1 and all. You could have seen the same N/A horse power and torque (if not then more) for way less money.... I just don't understand.
Cardomain|
Myspace
LGO my eggo (Josh Roberts) wrote:ehhh... aluminum head right.......? Just go out and buy some billet polish and a hard-bristle toothbrush. You should have really done the intake side too..... Why bother paying all the money to do the exhaust but not the intake? What about the pushrods too? You've upgrgaded everything to rev higher but you did not mention pushrods. You need those too. Electronics? It all just isn't making sense to me.... Personally, I would have just swapped in the 2.3 H/O since you are already running OBD1 and all. You could have seen the same N/A horse power and torque (if not then more) for way less money.... I just don't understand.
I may go do that, sounds easy enough. Pushrods are upgraded too, from crawler. The lifters are also upgraded with
these from jbodyperformance.
As for the 2.3 head, i had no clue that it could be used on the 2.2. Isn't it an over head cam engine? so it'd be a conversion? because i have ohv. That be sweet, but i didn't think it was possible. correct me if i'm wrong. For electronics, i'm going to run an e-manage. I already have a m-500 wideband installed from www.plxdevices.com. I don't like to spend lots of money either, i'm a do it yourselfer so, don't misunderstand me. What do you think I should do on the intake side? How far to widen it? or, what casting anomolies are there, and where can i look for those. If i can do more to make this head better, i will. thanks.
vtech power wrote:Definitely something I'm going to do this summer. Doesn't hurt that jbodyperformance is 15 mins away from my house.
..O_o why is that quote by me in your sig?
My Car Domain Page
A few things caught my eye here:
VTLoki wrote:new valve guides (head had the wrong ones) :about $35.00
I assume the valves you ordered had a valve stem larger than 7mm? Doesnt anyone offer an aftermarket valve with a 7mm stem?
I'm surprised you went away from the conical style valve spring. I see no reason that a replacement spring couldnt have been used with the stock retainers and keepers.. which by the way it looks could have saved you a buttload of cash.
Also noteworthy was that the porter took out the vanes from your exhaust runners. I guess seeing as you plan a turbo build that should be OK, but from what I understood those should remain in everything other than an all out racing build...
What I would have/would still do to the head is fully polish the combustion chambers and exhaust runners. Smooth and contour the bowl around the valve guide on the intake side, clean up the casting lines, but do not polish anything on the intake side.
I'd say that head should work out pretty well for you, I think it just needs a little more time stuck into it.
JLP
01' 5 speed Z <--- 03' 15.2 @ 90
79' Blue Monte <--- 03' 12.18 @ 110.86
SeriouZ wrote:A few things caught my eye here:
VTLoki wrote:new valve guides (head had the wrong ones) :about $35.00
I assume the valves you ordered had a valve stem larger than 7mm? Doesnt anyone offer an aftermarket valve with a 7mm stem?
I'm surprised you went away from the conical style valve spring. I see no reason that a replacement spring couldnt have been used with the stock retainers and keepers.. which by the way it looks could have saved you a buttload of cash.
Also noteworthy was that the porter took out the vanes from your exhaust runners. I guess seeing as you plan a turbo build that should be OK, but from what I understood those should remain in everything other than an all out racing build...
What I would have/would still do to the head is fully polish the combustion chambers and exhaust runners. Smooth and contour the bowl around the valve guide on the intake side, clean up the casting lines, but do not polish anything on the intake side.
I'd say that head should work out pretty well for you, I think it just needs a little more time stuck into it.
The valves were 7 mm, but the valves and guides that came in the remanufactured head were 8 mm. I believe that is because the 93-94 2nd gen had the 8 mm valves. Whatever the reason, i had to change the guides to fit the ones from karo.
I guess for the springs and retainers, i just wanted something strong, since i'm going to try and increase the redline.. just a though,
and i do (now) plan to polish the exhaust runners, and chamber. Thanks for the input
Quote:
Quote:
LGO my eggo (Josh Roberts) wrote:
ehhh... aluminum head right.......? Just go out and buy some billet polish and a hard-bristle toothbrush. You should have really done the intake side too..... Why bother paying all the money to do the exhaust but not the intake? What about the pushrods too? You've upgrgaded everything to rev higher but you did not mention pushrods. You need those too. Electronics? It all just isn't making sense to me.... Personally, I would have just swapped in the 2.3 H/O since you are already running OBD1 and all. You could have seen the same N/A horse power and torque (if not then more) for way less money.... I just don't understand.
I may go do that, sounds easy enough. Pushrods are upgraded too, from crawler. The lifters are also upgraded with these from jbodyperformance.
As for the 2.3 head, i had no clue that it could be used on the 2.2. Isn't it an over head cam engine? so it'd be a conversion? because i have ohv. That be sweet, but i didn't think it was possible. correct me if i'm wrong. For electronics, i'm going to run an e-manage. I already have a m-500 wideband installed from www.plxdevices.com. I don't like to spend lots of money either, i'm a do it yourselfer so, don't misunderstand me. What do you think I should do on the intake side? How far to widen it? or, what casting anomolies are there, and where can i look for those. If i can do more to make this head better, i will. thanks.
Sounds like you have the electronics all worked out. Sorry about the confusion though. The 2.3 head will not bolt up to the 2.2ohv block or any of the 2.2 blocks. I was talking about the whole motor. A built N/A 2.2 puts out about the same HP as a stock N/A H/O motor. Deffinately polish the exhaust side or carbon is going to build up very fast and take away all of the goodness that came from the porting. E-manage is a great choice for a boosted car. Good luck with everything.
PS: How high are you planning on revving this thing and what size turbo?
Cardomain|
Myspace
Well, planning on going to 15 psi, not at first, but gradually working my way there. and going to be running a T3/T04E turbo. 0.48 or 0.63 a/r and a 50 trim.
still undecided on the a/r I mean, a .63 won't fully boost for a while, but then again, i'll get some good in town gas milage. for full out tract, i'll probably be in full boost after i shift each time. (rpm's should be high enough) dunno... input?
as for reving, the components are safe up to 7K, but i dun know where i'll stop making power, need a dyno graph for that. I still don't know how to bypass the rev limiter on the ecu. any thing you since i have the obd1?
Nice pics
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
MSD wrote:vtech power wrote:Definitely something I'm going to do this summer. Doesn't hurt that jbodyperformance is 15 mins away from my house.
..O_o why is that quote by me in your sig?
Because it makes me chuckle every time I read it.
__________________________________________
Quote:
Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.
nice pics but shouldn't u have left a lip on the bottom of ever exhaust port?
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/h8hondaz/sig.jpg">
Matt wrote:nice pics but shouldn't u have left a lip on the bottom of ever exhaust port?
Well, maybe if I was going N/A but i plan on putting a large turbo on, and I want it to flow very well, and a lot of volume. But i dun really know if removing it will help. I was told it would by one person, the porter, but I am unsure, and kinda disappointed with him, since I didn't get the intake done, or exhaust polished. Which I will do myself.
hmm, can i port the intake without removing the valves? i guess as long as i get the particles out, and dun hit the valve stem. Probably safer to just remove them again....
let jbody performance take a stab at fixing it... tell them henry sent ya.
Definitely take the valves out. You will hit them with the sanding wheels when you port it. Porting is not just about making things bigger, it is about cleaning up the casting flash, and smoothing sharp radius edges...all things which are huge hindrances to airflow. So even if the intake ports match the gasket already, you should still go in and break all the sharp edges. And definitely polish the combustion chamber as well. It increases airflow and keeps carbon from sticking to have the chamber and the exhaust ports polished.
By the way, is that head make of styrofoam?
-da chinchilla
<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/jiggamon/avatar15569_2.gif">
