I receently got my 086 frrom Jasmin and it sat for all of maybe two days before I started to go at it. I am doing a mild porting job on the intake side and removing all casting flaws on the exhaust side so I can polish it. I am keeping the stock valves, springs, retainers, ect. but I think I am going to put new guides in just to be on the safe side. So far I have gone as deep as I felt was safe without removing the valves. The valves and guides will be coming out on Monday if all goes well so I can finish the job. It should be done around the middle of March as I will be finishing it off with a three-angle valve job. As soon as Exploited finally ships out my H/O turbo manifold I will also see what I can do about rounding out some edges on the exhaust side to try and get a little better flow. After it is all done it will go to the machine shop and be milled 100% flat again and o-ringed if I can't find I better headgasket than what I have.
If anybody has any questions just let them out.
Cardomain|
Myspace
I think since your already getting a valve job you should buy some stainless steel valves from karo and put those in instead of using the stock. But nice job on the porting
nice job man! im a turd and need to work on my car..
Sven you totally quarterloafed your computer..
Colin Gee wrote:I think since your already getting a valve job you should buy some stainless steel valves from karo and put those in instead of using the stock. But nice job on the porting
yes that would be a good idea. if you want to build a high-RPM motor, there is a write up on Quad4forums somewhere about using Comp Cams valvesprings for an LS1 in the 086 head... i believe. i could be mistaken
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
I will check that out. Thanks. I may replace the valves. If I do I am going 1mm over. I'm trying not to spend too much money on this though which is why I am doing the valve job myself and only paying for the stones I am using. This is an 086 head though, I don't think Karo has them on his site. I would have to go through Mantapart. I REALLY don't want to go through the waiting game again. We'll see what happens.
Cardomain|
Myspace
doing the valve job yourself huh? What all is involved tool wise? a couple of dies with the angles and what, a drill press and some kind of mechanism to hold the head perfectly square to the bit?
-da chinchilla
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Dont oversize the valves on the 086 head. Your already talking about a head that is notorious for cracking between the valves due to a lack of "meat" so machining the head to allow you to put in larger valves & seats are going to cause one hell of a problem. Plus I dont even believe Manta makes or sources larger valves due in part to this issue, but i could be wrong. Personally i'd never do it.
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^^^^ That's cool. I reallu didn't want to oversize anyway. I know about the cracking which is why I am going very mild with the porting. In order to do a valve job you have to have a special machine. It is very expensive so I don't recommend going out and getting one. I don't have one in my garage or anything but my friend has one and I have used it before and checked my work so it should be good. I am just buying the carving stones to use so I don't use up his. I will take a picture of the machine if you want it. You need a different stone for every angle.
I think I am going to take your advice though kernol. I really did not want to replace the valves anyway due to the cost. Plus, the valves all seem to be in good shape. on exhaust valve on cylinder 3 seems to have been replaced before.
If anybody else is following my progress on the motor, all I have left to buy is the EGT gauge and the 92 LO block. I was going to go with a 442 from a Low Output quad, but then I found out that pre-92 2.3s had diiferent mounts and I don't want to go through the trouble. I am also thinking about putting the 2.4 timing chain cover assembly on it so that I can get rid of the oil seperator and the oil fill to have more space around the intake manifold. The fill would be on the 2.4 chain cover and the oil seperator would be replaced with a PCV. Is there any more to it that I am over-looking?
Thanks for the feedback thus far!
Cardomain|
Myspace
Using that setup for your oil fill will work fine, except one issue i would keep in mind. When you switch to the 2.4 timing chain housing your changing the setup on the water pump, so now your using a water pump that has the integrated driveshaft.... whereas the 2.3 used a pump that was seperate from the timing chain housing so that you could technically replace the pump without tearing into the timing chain housing. Personally I prefer this pump for exactly that reason, not to mention they tend to last much longer than the 2.4 pumps. If i were you i'd stick to the 2.3 housing and just go after an aftermarket oil fill tube, like something from Lokar, that is flexible and can be routed anywhere you need, out of the way of your manifold. Then to plug up the hole on the timing housing just throw a simple breather filter on there and your set.
Now as for the block, I assume the mounting points your talking about are the dogbone style vs. the hydraulic front center crossmember style mount? and the rear lower mount *right near the water pump* vs. the newer center of the timing chain housing mount...correct? If so you can convert your older style front/center mount to the dogbone, by picking up some parts at the j/y and perhaps doing a little block tapping. On alot of the older blocks you will still have those mounting points cast into the block for the side mount, all you will have to do is tap the existing holes if they are there, or just drill into those point and tap them. But if you can get your hands on the block you need fairly easily it would save you these headaches.
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^^^^^^Good deal. We will see what the search at the yard comes up with. Maybe if I find a 442 I wont have to turn it down then. I guess only looking will tell.
Do you know anything about removing the oil seperator in favor of PCV? The oil fill wasn't the least of the problems. The oil seperator covers two of the intake runners that I need injectors in
. It is a pain in the butt and an eye-soar on top of that.
My NGK TR6 plugs came in today from Karo as well as my Accel 8.8mm wires. I got the wires for a small block and am going to use the best four I can use for the size and give the rest away or something. I got them close to free so I'm not complaining.
Cardomain|
Myspace
You can just eliminate the Oil/Air seperator if you wish, basically its operating like a PCV vale, but instead of a valve its filtering the air. I'd just pull it off and eliminate everything associated with it. It hooks into the stock fill tube, so if you go aftermarket that solves that issue and i'd just throw a breather on the timing chain housing. If you really want to run the PCV valve, which the only upside to it, is its possible to reduce ring blowby by creating a positive vacuum throughout the crankcase, but your also going to loose some performance as your pulling in warm air coupled with oil vapors from the crankcase. So its your call on that one.
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