I need help with a few things. Its a 2002 ecotec.

First, in the posts on replacing the head/cams they talk about the different colored links, well i'm seeing only a couple of silver links and no different colored links. Are the silver links the ones im supposed to look at?

Second, how do I remove the fuel rail? I really do not see how it comes out.

Third, how do i unclip the 4 sensors on the intake manifold? The have the green color on them, and i dont see how they unclip.

Fourth, i need to know what to torque the crank pulley to.

Sorry if these questions seem easy or whatever, but i really am having a little trouble. Any help will be appreciated. If i have anymore i'll post them.

Thanks

ok, i figured out the second and thrid thing i asked but now i need to know how the @!#$ do i get the head bolts out. IMO they are in there tighter than the crank pulley bolts. I used an impact gun and it didnt do anything. Should i buy a ratchet with a long handle or what, i'm knida stuck here.

I still need to know about the link and the torque specs.

them head bolts are tighter than $hit from the factory. When i was building my motor i just took a breaker bar about 3ft long and broke them loose. and yes the silver links should be the ones. If you haven't taken the chain of yet rotate the crank to where your #1 cylinder is top dead center and all of your links should match up. Hope that helps you some


If your interested in custom aluminum tilt wheel levers hit me up!

yeah use a breaker bar. Put all your back into it and they will break loose,some times constant leverage is better then impact. Sometimes I run into that too and I have an IR that hits around 700ft lbs.




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

yeah i got the bolts out. I bought a metal pipe and put my ratchet in it and used the pipe as he handel.

Thanks for your help guys, if i have any more questions ill post them. I think i got it though.

I bought a metal pipe and put my ratchet in it and used the pipe as a the handle. Easily got those bolts out.

Thanks for your help guys. If i have any more questions, i'll post them but i think i got it though. Think

OK, i need some more help.....

How the @!#$ does the chain tensior bolt come out. Ive used pliers, and my hands are all scratched up because of it. I can get a grip, but it wont turn.

I'm using this as a guide http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=64256&t=64256#64256
on step 9, what is the hole with the plug sealing and how can i take it out with out using a torch.

also, im only seeing 3 of the 4 star shaped bolts, 2 on the left of the engine and one one to the left of the exhaust cam gear, which i cant get to budge.

After i get these done, im practically done with the disassemble. Also, i lost some oil, should i replace my oil when im done?

First of all you should always change your oil after doing any major engine work. Im assuming your are talking about the bolt that contains the hydraulic tensioner. It should come out pretty easy I recommend using the the right size socket for this job. also while you have it out you should replace, then you have no worrys while you start the thing up. Do you have an Impact driver? If you don't get one it will help you will stubborn blot heads that strip easy like t- bits. The seal compound is be so oil does not leak by the treads, make sure you clean it and but new compound on it. You maybe able to get it out with out a torch trying a impact or impact driver. Put a torch will make it easier.




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

1 1/4 inch socket on a 1/2 inch flex head rachet and the tensioner bolt is no problem, if your using pliers as a way of taking out bolts during and engine tear down/rebuild step away from the vehicle

yeah i got that huge bolt out.
Which bolt is it that has the seal compound? Like where is it.

i do have a impact driver.

get one from sears they work great, don't by a super cheap one I did and after about two hits with my 32oz hammer the thing literally fell apart. I've had my sears one for over a year and it is still going strong. It is by the automotive tools in the craftsman department I think about $20, It is a worth while investment. It is really good for froze up screws. It supplys about 300ft lbs of force. I would hate to see you ruin those torq bit screws.




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

yeah, i have one. I need to know where this bolt with the sealer is because im really not seeing it.

my bad I forgot my glasses let me see if I can find you a picture...




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

I'm looking at gm instructions and the only bolt with sealent that they mention is the guide acess bolt/plug




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

you should already have this out?




1979 Impala Sport Coupe Aeroback

i need to check that because there is supposed to be a 10mm bolt behind it that will move the black timming chain guide out of the way.
after i get that out of the way i can remove the star head bolt that the guide is blocking. Then i can finally take the head off

i just went to my garage to look for that, and BAM there it was, i didnt even think about looking there.
Thanks jimmy you're awesome.

so yeah, there is no way this bolt is coming off.

i tried heating it and using pliers.....nothing, outside is a little messed up.

i even tried an allen wrench....i stripped the @!#$in bolt. why the @!#$ is this @!#$in bolt even like this anyways.

im stuck. i have no @!#$in clue how to get this damn bolt off. I dont want to reassemble without my new head. OMG this a mother@!#$in headache. I dont know what the @!#$ i should.

You can tell im a little pissed and frustrated. Does anyone have any idea what i should do?

Quote:

step away from the vehicle

give it some time and relax engine work requires patience

I am not sure if you are doing this, but the 2002 ecotecs came from the factory with a weak timing chain oiler. you need to replace that , mine snapped at like 38,000 miles and GM did not warranty it cause it was not a recall. Just FYI. The replacement timing chain had the colored links on it - it was pretty (LOL). I've got lots of pictures from the fun time i had with mine... Good Luck!!!!


~OPSE

i'll will have to look into that when i change my cams.

The colored links were on my chain stock. Sorry for the confusion. there should be 3 colored links though and they will only match the correct marks on your gears in one way. So, no matter what the color, you should be able to time it correctly...

Honestly, that access plug was hella-hard to get out. We tried allen wrenches, but nothing could get in there because of the motor mount.. We did just heat the bolt with a torch and turned it loose with some massive pliers. Although, keep in mind, my headwork was done with roughly 5000 miles on the engine. We all know engines with more age to them act differently...

Short of pulling the motor mount bracket, I'm no help... Sorry..

vise grips...lock them on there and give it hell. All after heating it of course.




-da chinchilla

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any other suggestions, i tried all day and nothing.

i heated that son of a bitch up. i got a good grip and it does move at all. i @!#$ up both of my hands now with some big ass cuts.

i talked to a mechanic and he said all you need is an allen wrench socket. well that did nothing but strip the bolt some more.

Look i really need some help, wtf do i do.

dynamite....well not in the explosive sense.

Take a flat punch and put it in the alan socket. Hit it with a hammer a couple of times. Remember you are dealing with an aluminum head, so don't pound the @!#$ out of it. Just give a bunch of good wraps with the hammer. Sometimes this is all it needs to break the sealant up...especially after the extreme heat of the torch has dried up the sealant.

It has worked for me in the past with stubborn bolts, but I can't guarantee anything.

Snap the vise grips on it and bang on them with a hammer too....Just be careful not to break the tools.




-da chinchilla

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