I recently installed my autometer coolant temperature sensor, and i'm not sure if I got any air into the system or not. Anyone know how I can make sure there isn't any air in the system?
My '96 2.2 has two bleed valves, one aft of #4 cylinder on the head, and one in the heater return tube that goes by the exhaust manifold. With this, you open the #4 bleeder, fill with coolant mixture 'til it starts to overflow. Close the bleeder, run engine for a minute, shut off, 'burp' the return tube bleeder till the presure is gone or coolant flows out Run engine for 5 minutes, burp tube bleeder again, top off coolant, run engine, burp, top off, etc until the tube bleeder no longer yields a burp of air.
Rule of thumb AIR pockets rise to the highest point on a engine.U can simply remove the radiator cap and if there is air trapped it should vent back thru the resevoir or radiator cap fill area.I know there are block plugs to do this but are mounted below the highest point for flowing coolant typically.U can try this just top off the antifreeze and get the engine hot will cardboard covering ur radiator with the radiator cap off DO NOT accerl the throttle it should cause the eng to warm up quick with no air flow blocking the radiator,I hope this helps u should see air bubbles while the car is running while the caps off meaning its moving up and out of the system,do it for 15-20min or normal temps.This is how I have done it for yrs and while working on diesel eng buses,same principle just a different vehicle.OK
True, true, however, late model J-bodies don't have the traditional radiator cap. That won't work here. Our pressure cap is over on the recovery tank.
hehe late model, on Z's it's been like that since '88 i belive. Ne-waz, rule of thumb still applies. Thats why if you notice the expansion tank is located at the highest point, so it can bleed all of the air. But I don't think there is any bleed screws on the ld9. If you wanna be sure all the air is out, run the car at idle until the fan comes on(you might have to rev it up a bit to pass operating temp.) If the fan goes off within like a minute or so(give or take a bit, not much)..you can safely say your system is bled. If the fan stays on and the temp rises, theres stil air in the system.
When your tiring to get the fan on, make sure the heat inside is off
I could be wrong about there not being a bleed screw, but i don't recall any