This is just mainly a rant. BUT if you have any positive input it would be healpful at the moment. Heres whats going on. My fuel pump went out this past sunday. So I got an oem replacement (dont ask why I had problems with the holley pump i got ) because i needed to get the caar rinning again so i could giv emy buddy his car back. Now its thurs day and i just finished getting the oem pump in and it ran like new again last night.
This morning i put both tank straps on but the heat sheild back in place and got to start it one more tiime and the car wouldnt start at all !!!! When i crank the car over or leave the key in the on position the fuel relay goes nuts making all kinds of clicking and ticking noises. Then i switched the ac relay with the fuel relay and same thing. But I'm running out of ideas now and i got to get to class in 30 min. when i get home I'm going ot check for spark and i have fuel pressure at the rail.
AAny help is greatly appreciated.
Jeff
i've contemplated many times how nice it would be if my car spontaneously burst into flames. seems like every day almost theres a new problem.
sounds like maybe when you put the straps back on a wire got cought under it, or disconnected or something.. or maybe the plug didnt go in all the way and not making good contact at the pump.. i'd probably if i were you drop the tank again and check out all connections and make sure there good and make sure none of the wires are broke, cut, frayed or anything... good luck man..
ok i am not completely sure, but it could be a few things,
wiring got wet, grounding out
the ac relay might work in its place but ussally it wont, the fuel relay is only a 18.00 dollar part, i had the same problem come to find out my crank shaft sensor went out, but the sensor was not duing that so sorry but thease are my best ideas
also i heard there is a inertia switch on the cars somewhere for the fuel system if its triped it wont let the pump run but i doubt thats the issue since the relay is freaking out... its almost like a wire is shorting out somewhere..
Well I just got back from class at 2pm and on the way home i grabbed a new relay and the problem is still there. I Just dropped the tank and checked all the wires none are pinched at alll and all connections are good. I have fuel preesure at the rail.
When i put the new relay in the car started for all of 1/2 a second and wouldn't again. Seems like the car wants to start the longer it sits but wont run. Then when i tried agin the relay went nuts clicking again.
I'm waiting for a friend to come over after work to check for spark because i need to have someone push the clutch in and turn the key.
The only things i can think of right now are.
1. injectors may be clogged
2. MSD coils went out.
3. bad ground maybe
4. fried computer? ( dont know how since i disconnected the bat before i started anything.
anybody else?
UPDATE::::::::; I now have a Theft system light on and it wont go away. I have all data and it states that I need a tech 2 to reset the theft system and I have also tried the reset where you put the key in the on position for ten minutes and all that crap........... What really angers me now is that I never had a theft system light until a little while ago.
Does anybody have any experience with the theft lock system on the 3rd gen cav's?
Where is Lenko when you need him???
i had a similar problem...it ended up being a short to ground on my fuel pump. Never had power going to it. Check every wire.
"Custom cars, custom problems."-me
Clicking relay sounds like a short to ground. I would pull you bat pos cable and drain the system (turn you lights on) and then use a multimeter and test for a short.
There should be a diagram on your relay for the correct prongs to test.
something like (ignoring the "."s):
1---.........----4
...8......../.....
...8...3---0......
...8..............
2---.........----5
Put you multimeter on the olhm setting and put one wire on the ground of the body and test each prong receptical (3, 4, and 5) with the other to see if you get a low reading (aprox 1-10 ohlms). Then you have a short.
pushrods wrote:Where is Lenko when you need him???
Why, writing new FAQ entries of course!!
Clicky, clicky!
Awsome i will try it again tomorrow morning when i get up. Your the man Lenko! Who said Canada wasn't any good for anything!! Thanks again.
Lenko it worked for all of 1 minute then the car died and the theft light came on again. Also my odometer still says Error on it. Can you think of anything else. I will drop the tank for a fourth time tomarrow to check all the wiring and make sure all the connections are tight. My gas gauge stopped working as well now........I'm going to bed now as i have to get up early and ride my bike to work.
At work a few months ago, I just finished installing a handsfree kit in a customers suburu- and the car wouldn't start... just a dead starter, almost like a starter kill...
We opened the hood, and there was a relay clicking really fast down by the transmission somewhere- pretty erratic sound...
Ended up getting towed to the dealer- turns out I fried the computer.. Accidently buried a screw into some wires- a part of the ECU recieved voltage when it shouldn't have- and smoked it.
Just throwing that out there.
RedDevil wrote:At work a few months ago, I just finished installing a handsfree kit in a customers suburu- and the car wouldn't start... just a dead starter, almost like a starter kill...
We opened the hood, and there was a relay clicking really fast down by the transmission somewhere- pretty erratic sound...
Ended up getting towed to the dealer- turns out I fried the computer.. Accidently buried a screw into some wires- a part of the ECU recieved voltage when it shouldn't have- and smoked it.
Just throwing that out there.
Thanks for the input. I think i might have done that as well because of the odo reading error when i crank. All data states that the error message is shown when there is a loss of comunicationn of the class 2 bus.
Well boys after lots of probing with my volt/ohm thing-a-ma-bober, I hav ecome to the conclusion that the BCM is bad. So i have to wait about a week before I can get the cash for another one.
Thanks for all the input you have all givin me.
Later Jeff
Sounds probable...
Go to a wrecker... probably cost you $5. If you can't find one, let me know what options your car has and I'll go get you one. Heck, I probably have one sitting here already. I know there's at least 5 in my apartment.
Lenko, John Lenko wrote:Sounds probable...
Go to a wrecker... probably cost you $5. If you can't find one, let me know what options your car has and I'll go get you one. Heck, I probably have one sitting here already. I know there's at least 5 in my apartment.
Thanks but....when i went to take it out one of the metal plugs thingys that go into the clip that connects to the bcm was loose. I fixed it and now the car is running.
So....me and my little blue bottle have a date tonight...Peace ya'll I got a beatin to atend to...lol
Oh and THANKS to everyone3 again.......beatin time.
Well it could be a couple of problems. A blown fuel pump fuse, pinchen fuel line or body harness is not getting power.
Tach Out Motorsport
Http://www.team-tachout.com/
Falmouth,VA
