-let the car cool down not all the way but below 100 degrees F (burned myself today)
-a piece of sandpaper gets off any oil filter with ease (good top IMO)
-never air wrench on a oil plug
-put a bead of oil on the oil filter gasket
-peload the filter with a bit of fresh oil
-a good hand tight filter should be all u need
-grease your zerk fittings while your under there
-start the car run it for 45-60 seconds, check oil and add more oil if needed, also check for leaks.
-every oil change is a good time for some fuel injection cleaner
feel free to add your own tips or advice
-Borsty
duh you forgot to mention to put the oil plug back in.
other than that, its pretty good. i usually just do my oil when the car is cold. i'll take a different car to go get everythin' and let the cav sit.
[quote=ßãggéÐÇåv98 (Ûñqùðtäߣè Øñé)]duh you forgot to mention to put the oil plug back in.
other than that, its pretty good. i usually just do my oil when the car is cold. i'll take a different car to go get everythin' and let the cav sit.i let it cool as much as i can because i don't liek burning myself.
i know the oil flows easier when it's warm, but it also burns easier.
I do it for a living at Jiffy Lube, and to be honest, Warm oil comes out better than cold oil, cold oil is like molasses, while warm oil just flows. My tips are to do the Zerks of course, and any time its in a shop (like when i bring my Sunfire in for what ever) IMO for the J's, the one's i dont like doing the most are Auto 2.2L OHV motors, as the tranny is in the way and hard to get to the filter, and if its a 2002, its even worse, as the PCM is outside by the top. IMO, the LD9 with either is pretty easy, as the filter's right in front, heck its easier than N-Body's with the same motor (less oil going everywhere, as theres no extra cross member on ours). As for Filters, definitly prime the gasket first, then i usually go as tight as i can get it to insure no leaks what so ever.
zerk fitting is a grease fitting for a chassis part.
this wasnt a how to guide guys, just tips.
this is actually a how to guide i wrote for english in 11th grade for changing oil:
The first step to change your oil is too make sure you have oil and a oil
filter (your local auto part store employee will help you with what weights of oil, which
filter and how many quarts you need). Also while at the auto parts store if u dont
have a 1/2" drive rachet with the socket for your drain plug, a drain pan and a
oil filter wrench pick those up.
Next if your car was just running allow it proper time to cool (about a hour)
if your car hasnt run for about 3 hours (the normal time for a vechile to fully cool)
start and run the car for about 1 minute to warm up the oil so its easier to
drain. Next set your parking/emergency brake and put blocks of wood behind
the rear wheels (make sure there big enough so the wheel wont roll over them.)
then raise your car with a jack (do not use your jack with your spare, their for
emergency only and should be used so.) then support the front of your car
with two jackstands on the frame.
Now, get under your car taking caution that most of the undercarriage
is hot (exhast especially) and I recomend wearing rubber gloves the whole time.
Then position your drain pan under the plug, and losen the drain plug with the
1/2" drive rachet intill u can spin it off with your fingers (make sure that the drain
plug doesnt fall into the oil pan, ive done it a few times and its not too much
fun to be 2" above your wrist deep in old engine oil, especially if its hot)
Now wait till the oil is completely drained and watch it the entire time
because the oil will shift directions as the amount of oil in the pan decreases.
Inspect the drain plug for metal shavings (drain plugs are magnetic to show
engine wear) wipe it off of any oil or metal shavings both on the plug and the
plugs hole. Tighten the plug into its place.
Next losen the oil filter. Sometimes it can be done by hand, most of the
time you have to use a metal strap oil wrench. Be careful, if the oil filter is above
your face oil can get into your eyes or mouth, so make sure your over to the
side. As u losen it oil should start to come out. so have some rags handy. If
possible hold your oil filter so the top of it is topwise the entire time to stop
oil spilling. Clean off the oil filter mounting point to the engine. Get the new filter
and put a bead of oil all around the rubber gasket to ensure a good seal.
Next tighten the new filter down with your hand the oil wrench doesnt need to be
used but u can just to give it a little extra tightness over hand power, but dont go
nuts a too tight seal could damage the rubber gasket.
Lower the car down after removing all tools from underneath. Then take
the oil cap off your vavle cover. Using a funnel (burning oil on the vavle cover
smells bad, trust me) pour 3-4 qrts in and check the oil level, if its within a good
operating range on the dipstick put the oil cap back on and start the car and let
it run for 1 minute. While that minute constantly check the ground for oil leaks.
If anything is leaking turn off the engine and tighen up the drain plug or oil filter.
After that check the oil level again and fill to the top of its operating range
(the new oil circulated through the new filter and oil passages.)
Take the old oil and put it into a container with a cap (milk jug, windsheild
washer fuild bottle, etc.) and take it to your local auto parts shop and they will
either take it, or tell you somewhere to take your oil for disposal (simply throwing
out oil is illegal)
After your first few trips, check your oil. About a week after you change
your oil you will may need to add a quart/ half of quart.
-Borsty
...lessee..maybe oil types, filter types?
I like redline 5w-30 and k&n filters...dont know if i need that nice filter, but hey, its only a few bux more.
tho i am gonna try royal purple on my next oil change...
but good write up!
...don't hate!.. respect people that have talent, even if it is in something you don't like or understand.
i use fram, nothing but good from them
and i use penzoil 10w 40 in any 4 cyl or v6 20w 50 in any v8.
-Borsty
Borsty wrote:i20w 50 in any v8.
I seriously hope you set your clearences loose or the oil might not flow well enough.....
I just use the cheapest 5w30 oil in my ecotec (penzoil or castrol, for 5qts and 10bux you cant go wrong) and a Wix filter. Replace the filter every oil change and the air filter every 3 oil changes.
1971 camaro 427 --- here!
Stock... and loving every minute of it.
20w 50 works fine.
-Borsty
........ maybe 20 years ago, but not now. Ever since Allied Signal bought them, they have went down the toilet! AC, WIX, Purolator, Baldwin, you can't go wrong!!
Just my 2 cents!!
WJB
Real Cars ( and Trucks. ) Have 3 Pedals, 2 Shifters, and No Sparkplugs!!
Pour some Seafoam in the crankcase before the oil change... cleans it out nicely.
ive heard bad things about seaform
and yes a.c delco, purolator are good filters too.
never used the others.
-Borsty
Valvoline...i never use anything else
My advice? Take it to a shop. heh. It's a dirty job, and I'm happy to pay someone else $20 to do it for me.
no man touches my car but me.
-Borsty
I'm always standing right there when it's done.
I just can't be bothered dealing with the old oil and everything. heh. It's too cheap a job to bother doing myself.
Ok, I 've been a long time member but never really posted. My wife has an 01 sunfire 4 door SE (the non GT motor). After reading this thread, I've got a good idea about getting the filter out.
My problem is what size nut is the drain plug. I can't easily get my craftsman between the oil pan and the tranny pan to get a good bite, and my 5/8 or 14mm wrenches arn't big enough.
I need to get this done soon, so I'm praying somebody can answer quickly. BTW, I'm not new to wrenching, just used to my ford where I can change the oil without jacking it up.
I work in a full service lube/oil shop and borsty pretty much got it all down as far as an oil change goes. I also agree with the post from the jiffy lube tech about draining it hot/warm. Yes the 2.2 ohv is a pain when it comes to changing the oil filter. most times you can change it from up top from the top of the hood or if you have a kevlar anti-burn arm sleeve or something similar you can usually get to it alright from underneath without fear of burning up your arm. the manual 2.2's, 2.4's, and eco's IMO are a cinch to work on and you can save yourself some good money VS. paying someone/someplace to do it. I'm not sure if these oil filters are available to non commercial markets but i prefer service pro filters (m111 for the 2.2 ohv, m4006 for the 2.4) and champ filters(ph47 for the 2.2 ohv, ph44 for the 2.4, and p3244 for the eco). I feel they hold up very well and are designed better than most other filters and are closer to OE or better.
Tim, your drain plug should be a 15mm
I use a K&N Oil filter, and Valvoline 20W50 oil (not VR1 Racing oil) since the engine was broken in on Motorcraft 15W40 diesel oil, the timing chain chatters on anything less
I work at a ford-chrysler dealership, thats why 15w40 oil was used in it, cuz the guy i bought it off of i work with.
96 Sunfire,SE/GT, 2.4L Twin Cam, est 180hp
check to make sure old gasket came off with old filter.
You have to change your oil? Crap! I just turned 90k and no one told me! Damn it!!!
lol, that's justnot right jonathan, lol
96 Sunfire,SE/GT, 2.4L Twin Cam, est 180hp
