I have two problems that I was curious if anyone else has dealt with. I own a 1997 2.2 liter cavalier.

PROBLEM # 1
LIFTER TICK! Man those lifters won't stop! Last summer after a lot of "Marvel's Mystery Oil" additive in about 3 oil changes I finally got the tick to stop completely. However, I was unable to change the oil for about two months (roughly 3,500 miles) during the winter and the tick is now back. Is there an easier way besides additives to make this go away? If not, has anyone found a useful additive?

PROBLEM # 2
OVERHEATING! Well....it doesn't quite overheat, but the engine gets a lot warmer than it used to. Earlier in my car's life, it would stay directly in the middle of the "operating zone" on my temp guage (no numbers on the temp gauge). Now, after about half an hour of the engine running it will start to creep into the dangerously high end of the "operating zone." It never crosses the operating zone but it ALWAYS stays near the hottest end of it.

I have given the cooling system a regular flush with just water, then a chemical flush (lots of gobs of goo came out when I did this, but eventually came out clean) and I have even replaced that dexcool crap with the green stuff which I've heard normally works a lot better. After that I replaced the thermostat with a thermostat that runs about 10 degrees colder before it opens up. I've bleeded the system, run the pressure test, checked the cap, and even tried getting more air-flow to the radiator.

My car has the street fighter front bumper on it, but I don't foresee that being the problem since it appears as though it would get better airflow to the radiator with this front end.

Does anyone have these problems with their 2.2? If so, has anyone successfully conquered them?

Zac

My 97 Sunfire 2.2 likes to run hot as well. It makes me quite nervous. It only seems to creep up at slow speeds and while idling or on hot restarts. Freeway speeds are always ok. I usually turn the AC on to control the temp guage.

I recently had my coolant flushed as well with the machine at the local oil shop, but it did not help.

I am getting to the point where I may simply go for the thermostat or water pump next!





1997 Pontiac Sunfire

When I pulled my thermostat out it was corroded pretty bad, but it was still effective none-the-less. I can't imagine how a water pump would help this situation. If you are having the exact same trouble as me, I think the problem lies in the radiator. Here is my reasoning:

For me, the car has to be running for an extended period of time before it begins to get hot...normally about half an hour at least. The way I see it, the thermostat is opening up and the radiator is cooling the coolant to a certain extent but is not lowering the temperature enough. This is why the car can maintain a normal temperature for a certain amount of time, but every time the cycles through the engine and back to the radiator, it leaves the radiator just a little bit hotter than before (since it goes in hotter and is not being sufficiently cooled).

Now, a 1997 vehicle should not be old enough to be concerned about corrosion issues as there are cars that have radiators that last 15 years or longer....however, when one of my coolant hoses formed a hole and leaked out half the coolant, I mistakenly put green coolant in with the dex-cool coolant. I meant to flush the system immediately but never got around to it and there was a mix of conventional coolant and dex-cool coolant for about a year. Now for those of you who have done your homework on dex-cool, you'll remember that it does not cooperate well with conventional coolant. It is said to form a sticky "goo" substance over time and can speed up the corrosion process on your cooling system. This leads me to believe that my radiator may be suffering from extensive corrosion which not only lowers the flow of the coolant but also lowers the overall efficiency of the cooling.

Have you by chance ever mixed dex-cool (orange) with another color coolant? If you have this would pretty much prove this hypothesis. heh.

Zac

Nobody has any tips on this? Must be a unique problem with j-bodys.

Zac

I think I know what your problem is.


its your Radiator.

Also, if you want, you can put a 160F thermostat, and drill a little hole to bypass air pockets just in case there's air in the cooling system. not a big hole, just a little hole








ohh!!
one more thing.
when your car gets to the normal temperature, check your Radiator and make sure both
sides are hot, but I think it might the your radiator.

To my knowledge, my car has never seen mixed coolant.

I was planning on changing my water pump simply because I am 66,000 miles and it has yet to be changed. My brother's water pump on his 95 lasted until 140,000, so I am second guessing myself. His car exhibits these temperature issues as well. So does my girlfriend's 97 Malibu.

Honestly, I think it is a manufacturer thing!


1997 Pontiac Sunfire

Hi Am new to the forum.

Check if the radiator cooling fan is turning on. In my buick86 skyhawk turbo, the radiator is just infront of the exhaust. Instead of radiator cooling the water, it is being cooked by the heat from the exhaust. My solution was to make the cooling fan run all the time at slow speed. (just like when you turn on the Airconditioner).

There are cooling fan switches somewhere in the thermostat housing that automatically turns on the fan at certain temperature but I think it is activated to late.

Yes, for some reason the fan is set to only turn on when the temperature is approaching the high operating zone line. In my opinion, that is much too hot for a car to run.

I too believe that the problem lies in the radiator....but I think it could be solved if I set the fan to run continuously at low speeds. I also wonder if I make an attempt to get more air-flow to the radiator from the front if that would help.

Zac

Additives, such as that mystery oil don't correct the problem, they hide it.

I believe the oil is much thicker, which insulates the noise.

But the problem is still there until its fixed.




I know it's JUST a Cavalier, and I'm sorry if I hurt your ego.

Ah same here. I've replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, fuses, flushed system, changed the cap, etc. and NOTHING WORKS. Its starts fine, runs fine for 15-20min then gets hot and never comes back down. I'm going to see if I can tap the OEM fan with a manual switch so the fan can be on at all times.

It's so frustrating I want to get rid of the car...
Thanks for letting me vent.

z24challenge, If what you're explaining is correct, that the thicker oil hides the problem, then that wouldn't apply to Marvel's Mystery Oil. It's called "Mystery Oil" because you can put it in anything. It goes into your crankcase, or you could put it in your gas tank if you wanted.

I don't know exactly what's in it, but it has a very sweet smell to it and is a very thin watery substance. I believe it is alcohol-based possibly. I've been told it can get into your lifters and free the grime in them over time. It is supposed to be one of the best things you can use for a sticky lifter problem. Changing the lifters would work....but seems like a really expensive bandaid to me. Lifters normally stick for a reason. Usually a change in oil weight, type, or frequency of changes per year solves that issue. Changing the lifters just gives you a clean slate....but it won't take long before they're grimed-up again if you don't change anything.

Zac

The fan its supposed to come on at 240F
why can't it come on at least 210F if 196F is normal temperature?

Well Zac Fields if you got a lound tick sound front youre lifter arms under youre valve cover, It could be a number of things.

1). Maybe you need to re-adjust youre lifter arms or re-torque them.

2.) Or youre cyl head valves may need to be replaced, Could be wornout.

Cooling trouble shooting.

1). Have you got the rad pressured tested? Could be blockage in the rad.

2). What kind of condition are the rad hoses in?

3). Are you losing any coolant.?

4.) are you added 50/50 mix of coolant with water.?

5.) Do you have tiny bubbles in youre coolant while car is idling.?

well if you got bubbles forming in the rad resisvoir 9/10 its youre cyl head gasket.
Hopefully its just a minor thing like blockage in the cooling system.

Their is a product out in auto parts stores from RED-LINE Products called = Wetter water. It works really good.

Good Luck