ok.. so i got a pacesetter header and i keep getting the p1033 code for slow responding o2 sensor #1. i have replaced it will an ac delco one a couple times and it goes away for a bit and then comes back. i was wondering if there is a better o2 sensor like bosch or something?
-- MyZcar
dan im suprised you keep getting the code since the you have i had coated inside and out , which keeps alot more heat in the header
you might want to get a 18 x 1.5 tap , and grind down the o2 bung so its not as think and then clean the threads up and see if that corrects the problem
Bosch is bottom of the line.
A/C Delco is not only a tier 1 auto supplier they also belong to the same conglomerate that makes jet fighter electronics. Think about it.
I'm getting the same code and have for a while. What do you recommend grinding the O2 bung down with and about how far? Also, what about metal getting into the empty hole while grinding? With the cost of gas I really need this to be fixed.
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I am not sure why you would grind down the o2 sensor bung, if the seal was bad your o2 sensor wouldn't work initially either.
I have this same problem on my van as well, but I am sure it is the O2 sensor I bought from GM. My van is much easier to diagnose then perhaps the cavalier (haven't had a problem with mine yet), but here is the basic logic.
First your have to isolate your problem. You have just been assuming so far that it is the o2 sensor, now that you have done this multiple times you are not sure. Make sure it is.
Test the O2 sensor. On most vehicles this simply involves unplugging the sensor, and measuring the voltage with a digital voltmeter that reads small voltage and a good ground. The car needs to be warmed up, and you'll also have to figure out which wire to test. Note that you should probably research this a bit, I haven't done it on these new models, and it may be different, however a simple google web search should yield millions of sites that deal with this (I know I have read several, but you can look this up just as easy as I can). There is also some sort of test with propane.
If it is not the sensor, test the wires.
If not the wires or o2 sensor, try google the TPS sensor. The dealer told me this problem can also trip the O2 sensor.
There is a lot of information out there on O2 sensors, not just on this site.
Sorry I am not being a ton of help here, but hopefully this will give you a start of where to look. Better than nothing right?
Are you sure you're not burning any anti-freeze or oil?
I can no longer sit back and allow Communist infiltration, Communist indoctrination, Communist subversion, and the international Communist conspiracy to sap and impurify all of our precious bodily fluids.
Pearl WhiteZ wrote:I am not sure why you would grind down the o2 sensor bung, if the seal was bad your o2 sensor wouldn't work initially either.
I have this same problem on my van as well, but I am sure it is the O2 sensor I bought from GM. My van is much easier to diagnose then perhaps the cavalier (haven't had a problem with mine yet), but here is the basic logic.
First your have to isolate your problem. You have just been assuming so far that it is the o2 sensor, now that you have done this multiple times you are not sure. Make sure it is.
Test the O2 sensor. On most vehicles this simply involves unplugging the sensor, and measuring the voltage with a digital voltmeter that reads small voltage and a good ground. The car needs to be warmed up, and you'll also have to figure out which wire to test. Note that you should probably research this a bit, I haven't done it on these new models, and it may be different, however a simple google web search should yield millions of sites that deal with this (I know I have read several, but you can look this up just as easy as I can). There is also some sort of test with propane.
If it is not the sensor, test the wires.
If not the wires or o2 sensor, try google the TPS sensor. The dealer told me this problem can also trip the O2 sensor.
There is a lot of information out there on O2 sensors, not just on this site.
Sorry I am not being a ton of help here, but hopefully this will give you a start of where to look. Better than nothing right?
I was under the assumption that an oxygen sensor can only be tested by using an osciliscope due to the fact that it switches from rich to lean to quickly for a voltmeter to be able to recognize the changes. This is also a single wire manifold mounted sensor. The oxygen sensor has been switched out with another one with the same results which would lead me to believe that something else is causing the cel to come on and not a faulty sensor. If it is a leak around the sensor how would you recommend fixing it? A bad TPS can trigger an O2 sensor code? How? Mine was replaced last year while the cel was on and it didnt change anything as far as this is concerned.
Scummy - yes i do burn some oil. Like I said above when I put in a new O2 sensor and cleared the check engine light, within like 3 ignition cycles it came back on. I know that oil will burn out an O2 sensor but in 3 cycles?
I am curious about shaving the bung down because I belive that I have read that 97cavie24ls(JDM cav sedan™ works for pacesetter. I think that I read in a post somewhere that the problem is that the sensor isn't far enough into the exhaust stream to get an accurate reading. This would cause the slow switching because it doesn't get as hot as it should if it was in the "correct" spot.
Thanks for the replies guys.
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To test the sensor you would need a graphing meter to read the osculations, an oscilloscope would work but it is slight over kill. but I would try a graphing scanner first to see what the computer is seeing. ultimately i would use both and compare the two. If the Meter shows that it is osculating from 100mV to 900mV then the sensor is working correctly. If the computer does not agree you probably have a wiring problem some where.
<img src="http://geocities.com/jimmythekid1/gecat2.gif">
so where do i get one of these? i know that 450mv is stoich but i only have a MAC brand multimeter. I also dont feel like paying someone to "diagnose" because I have a custom exhaust and all they will tell me that it is the problem. I was hoping that someone has tried to shave the bung down and had success.
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I have used a simple $25 volt meter and it works fine. If the oxygen sensor never shows readings higher than 300-500mv, (while someone is rev and releasing the accelerator) or shows a relatively constant voltage you know its toast.
ok.....when the sensor was unplugged from the connector i wasn't getting a good voltage reading, .125 ish volts. so i connected it back together and back probed the connector and got about .420v. probably wasn't getting a good connection on the O2 sensor. so now what? GM manual says check manifold for leaks and i have and have also tightened down the manifold. any more ideas??
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When tested with it connected you may have been reading the computer feedback (if the system is in closed loop the computer generates the voltage). Anyway you still didn't read anything above 500 (I assume someone was reving the engine right?) so the sensor is bad again.
Here are more tests in case you are a real glutton for torture;
O2 sensor testing
other version of same
