Okay, I hate to do this in one post But i would rather not make 12 topic's and clog up the forums.

So the Story is this, I race quite a few cars for Auto Cross. One of them was a 98 Cavalier RS Manual with the 2.2L engine. I know, I'm pathetic but there you have it. After I retired it for other cars, I gave it to my sweetheart to drive around so she had a car. Well, somewhere along it's 170K mile journey, issues upon issues have erupted. So I will give all my BEST description to what has happened with that car. Anyone tell me if you can help me figure out whats wrong, tempted to take it to a Chevy dealer and have it looked over.

Issue #1
The car seems to suffer from MASSIVE over-steer. Original i thought it was the poor tires on it worn from racing, but after swapping 4 new Michelin defenders onto it, it still happens, usually when it's just a lil drizzling out or wet. I have yet to see issues while it's dry. It has spun out in a 30 degree bank turn and a 90 degree turn, both at speeds i could have maneuvered my pickup through without flipping or skidding. So My assumption is a Sway bar issue? no? If i can, I'll try and record video, and let you see what it does in the turns. With snow season coming, I'm afraid of her getting hurt.

Issue #2
The brakes..... I hear a lot of stories about ABS being bad on the Cavi, I have yet to test removing the ABS fuse and seeing if it fixes the car, but again while it's wet out, the brakes while I'm pushing them have gone COMPLETELY out for 1.5 seconds, then came back, then gone out again, without me moving the pedal. While this happens, i can hear what sounds like a plastic bucket being dragged along asphalt. It's happened twice both within a short drive. And Thats another issue that i don't exactly know what is wrong.

Issue #3
The Cavi seems to be throwing CEL code P0442, which I am working on, I think it's the gas cap's one-way vent is faulty, But if the Cap isn't the issue, where should I look?

Issue #4 The transmission.... Oh god, how do i even describe it. First issue with it, it is very hard sometimes to get into gear, I have to SLAM the shifter to get into gear, and even then, sometime it grinds going into gear while the clutch is in, I just need to adjust the Clutch cable right? How do i do that on this car? Next transmission issue, It's again hard to get into gear, sometimes it gets stuck, or i can't get it moving left or right, or sometimes up or down. So what do i do to repair this issue? I think the Trans needs fluid but I cannot confirm.

Issue #5 I can't use the 2 lower fans speeds, however I saw the sticky and am going to attempt the repair first! So ignore this until i update the post.

If any other issues occur, They will be added BELOW this post, Thanks to any of you who help me

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

Extra short bit of Info, I have had the Front end realigned within the week, no change in steering.

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

Issue 1: the rear end in the 3rd gens does not have a sway bar unless you installed an aftermarket bar. I would look at the bushings in the torsion beam as the tear will get loose if they are worn.

Issue 2: could be a faulty abs unit. Pull the fuse and see if it still has the issue. The abs is noisy in these cars but I wouldn't describe it as a plastic bucket noise... More a whirring.

Issue 3: if the gas cap is not the issue, other causes include: Defective or damaged fuel cap,
Distorted or damaged Fuel Tank Filler Neck,
Small tear or puncture in the Evaporative system hose(s) and/or Carbon Canister,
Defective Fuel Tank Sending Unit gasket or seal,
Small split in a seam of the Carbon Canister,
Defective Evaporative Vent Valve and/or Evaporative Purge Valve,
Defective or damaged Fuel Tank,
Defective Fuel Tank Pressure semder gasket, Slightly loose and/or worn clamps or hardened O-rings anywhere in the EVAP system

Issue 4: the clutch is hydraulically actuated. You could try to bleed the line to make sure there is no air but based on your other description, it could also be an internal issue in the trans. (Bent shifter fork, worn synchros, etc). Will it go into gear when the engine is off any easier? If so, you may just have a bad master or slave.

Alright, Thanks, Here's the update

Issue #1 Will now inspect the Torsion beam bushings.

Issue #2 The ABS system is bad, pulled fuse causes the brakes to dramatically improve. Will check the wheel sensors for damage.

Issue #3 Repaired, faulty gascap

Issue #4 Shifter is significantly easier to use when the engine is off. So this is a Master or slave cylinder issue? Is it possible the fluid is low or something similar? I do have to change the trans-fluid, I can tell. I can confirm the clutch is not fully disengaging, my clutch pedal goes to the floor without much resistance.

Issue #5 Inprogress

New: The 2.2L ecotech normally produces insane heat right? Like it's the middle of the winter and it gets rather hot very quickly. Not an issue per say but was checking if this is an advisory issue, i know I have todo a coolant flush next week. It's well overdue.

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

It could be a bad hydraulic line too but likely a master or slave. if it shifts easy when the engine isn't running, I'd say it's highly unlikely that it's internal damage.

My Eco heated up relatively quickly in the cold but there is no harm flushing the coolant. Might want to do the thermostat as well just for piece of mind.

Yeah, Will do a thermostat swap, Have a spare somewhere. How should i test the master or slave? Or should I take it to a shop?

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

Usually a failed master or slave will have some visible sign of leakage.

On the clutch/shifting issue. I would start with bleeding the system really well. A bleeder valve on the line going into the tranny. Bleed like you do brakes.

You mentioned 2.2 Ecotec? Your car is a 98 RS. did you do a motor swap in it?



FU Tuning

I will check the Clutch ASAP once my lift gets the new motor.

Yes, I keep forgetting, I had during rally a 2.2L ecotech (L42) Installed, but I blew the engine up during a run with the car so I was wrong, it's back to using the LN2 stock engine with the crappy Isuzu transmission.

Question, Would there be any benefit or even possible to swap the Getrag F23 in to replace a dying Isuzu transmission? I have a Getrag F23 here for the 05 Cobalt that was supposed to see rally but was destroyed in an accident. Needs to mount to a Gm 2.2 122 Engine(LN2).

Also, I have fixed the oversteer, was a problem with the back drums. once of them was so rusted it was locking the wheel sometimes and causing the back to slide. Easy fix, new Drums.

Heck, Should I bring some photo's Of thunder fang in? The paint is wearing off the poor old J-body. I've retired it from rally a bit ago. Won't lie, the car was fun driving Auto-X and what not. But it had it's time. And now it's back to stock.

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

Update

Issue #1: Fixed

Issue #2: Cannot tell, Currently am experimenting with the brakes

Issue #3: Fixed

Issue #4: Got a new lift motor, going to inspect

Issue #5: Waiting on parts

New #6: Well, Guess what, Turns out the thermostat is probably junked. Or it's too cold for this LN2 engine. At idle while it's 7 Degrees out, the engine coolant won't get above 115F, but if i drive it, even just normally, I get upto 150-160. If id rive hard i can peak 180. The running temp is like 180-200 isn't it? Jammed thermostat no? Sucks cause it puts out no heat like this.

Same question, I learned my Cobalt F-23 won't bolt right on, but could i pull a F-23 Transmission from a wrecked 00 to 03 cavalier and pop the Transmission inplace of my Isuzu MK7, I really hate this trans, it's noisy, has some bad gears, and feels flimsy.

PIC's

Attachments

IMG_20150109_231341.jpg (273k)
IMG_20150109_231356.jpg (282k)
IMG_20150109_231348.jpg (300k)

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

#4 could be worn synchros if it's grinding also too when I ran 75/90? Gear oil was a lil rough getting into gear. Easily confuse ppl when ur told its the same as synchromesh? Sry can't remember exactly. and yea sounds like u need to bleed the hydraulic line. as far as the thermostat, make sure it's not upside down


ReD RaiN

you can run an f23 from a ln2 equipped car from 00-02... (03 were eco powered)

trans mounts are different though so you'd need to cut the Isuzu mounts out and weld in the getrag mounts. you'll also need axles, slave cylinder/clutch line (possibly master and pedal as well), shift cables, and the shifter assembly out of an f23 equipped car. I would assume you could run your existing clutch/pressure plate but it may be worth changing out while you have everything apart.

Would the Swap be worth it?

So far, I haven't gotten much work done, I've been busy, but I'm now hearing another stupid issue.

While braking, the right front brake makes a clicking kind of sound varying with the speed of the wheel. Bad brake pad, rotor, or caliper? Will look at it tomorrow, I'm sick right now with the flu.

PS: Thank god, the thermostat isn't upside down

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian

I have a clicking sound to under breaking when my tire slides on the driver side, I. Guessing it's the abs sensor


ReD RaiN

Okay, Finally got some work done

I put the ABS fuse back, I think the brakes are working right, I can't tell, Whats best to do? The Clicking sound vanished after some brutal driving.

Also, I bled the clutch, HOLY HELL It is so much better. Before I could move the clutch the the floor and it wasn't fully disengaging, Now I have a Full 3-4 Inches where it's disengaged, the clutch works, and i can shift again, without grinding too

Cleaned the Thermostats out and its working

Refilled the Powersteering system which was bone dry, steering improved, and no longer can i hear pump whine.

Last this to do, Probably change all the coolant. Gonna check the undercarrige and exuahst system and than soon repaint the thing, It's in need of it. Need to fix my trunk and hopefully I can get my rims put back on.

"I like to burn money in piles too" -Brian