Hi,
I have replaced this gasket with a new molded rubber one and only about 2000 miles later it has started to leak oil again at both the ends of this gasket where it goes around the crankshaft. The original gasket started leaking after only after a few years old at both ends also. Has any others had this same problem?? If so what did you do to fix the leak? Any good oil additive to add to the oil to stop this leak??

I dont think there is any additive that I would put in my oil in any motor.

Why not just pull the pan, is it a big ordeal on that motor?

Or just do what i do and keep topping it off rationalizing that it is fresher oil for longer lol.




"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Ok once again post your 1st gen ?s in the 1st gen forum! Not being pushy just we know these cars bc there are not as many fluent with the older ones in general.Now to answer this very easy.I know first hand the 1.8 and 2.0 engine are notorious for leaking either at the crank or trans end.The 2.8 really is not much different in this dept with the general design.The reason it leaks is the gasket on the crankshaft end slips (OUT) creating the gap.Now on the trans end there is a rubber boot/seal that slides in to a groove and that is meant to be there even if replacing.So steps to fix the leak.Drain oil and take the pan off.Then if you used any sealer scrap off and get to bare metal.Then use maybe 1-3 cans of brake cleaner to remove ALL the oil even up into the bottom end it will not hurt to prevent any oil dripping down before a new seal.I suggest using a cordless drill with a FINE grade 1/4 shank cordless brush from lowes the kobalt brand sold near the drill bits and buy one.These are gold in color and def use the FINE grade they are clearly marked.Cost about 4.00.Go over the entire area to rough up and smooth the metal and those brushes are sold in 3 sizes I use the smaller round and 1 flat style myself.Once brake cleaned and brushed it is ready for one more can of brake cleaner for the final clean off and make super sure it is bone DRY!Clean your oil pan the same way good clean surface with the brushes and brake clean.Now using not just any gasket sealer BUY some Permatex (The right stuff) cost is about 16.00 for the 4 oz bottle.Black on white cheese wiz style can u push the nozzle end to squirt out.Apply a 1/8 bead on the oil pan nice a smooth go around each bolt hole for coverage.Now this is important just USE the gaskets on the sides of the oil pan ONLY!!!!!!!!! Then apply one or two solid beads at the crank end of the oil pan and same for the trans end.Last run a light 1/8 bead on top of the gaskets on the sides this will touch the bottom of the block when installed.Now the final step is place oil pan in it's place and hold and run all the bolts in left to right all the way down and just snug by HAND with a socket.Lastly just go from either end and left to right and snug up each bolt by hand with rachet and socket until the pan is evenly snug.I do NOT torque these bolts myself soley by hand FEEL just continue this pattern until all the bolts in the left to right pattern are good and hand tight(meaning solid,tight but not over tight).Let the car sit for 12-24 hours and do NOT add oil.While the permatex the right stuff is a quick curing set up gasket sealer the longer it sits to get set,dried and NO chemicals on it will be problem free for a long time!This gasket sealer is expensive and works fast and will cure quicker but IF you want a leak free oil pan this method while lengthy is a pain but,guess what it works.I know this is a freaking book but my methods while tiring and costly in some ways very effective to fix a leak the CORRECT way.Oh forgot make sure to install the rubber seal gasket at the trans end with a touch of the permatex then install before you put the pan on with it ready.