I have so much on the go right now this happens to be the last thing I want to deal with. ARG!!
Anyways, yesterday, the car started, got me halfway down my street, and quit. I thought I was out of gas (sender doesn't work), but a gallon didn't fix the problem, so I had it towed home. At first I suspected the fuel pump, but I can hear it running. So, this morning, I pulled a plug-wire, plugged in an old sparkplug and got my stepson to turn it over and bam! it started, and the plug in my hand was sparking away. I revved it a few times, and it quit. So, same exercise again and no spark this time. It tried once or twice, but wouldn't spark consistently enough to start up. It won't even try, so it's not one coil pack not firing, it's both of them.
So... I don't know much about the ignition components on these cars, I would THINK that the coils and module would either work, or not work, not just work sometimes. So I would think of a loose connection, but I have no idea where. I got under the car tonight, and it's such a pig to even see the coil-packs, I can't tell if there's a loose connection. I unplugged a couple things, cleaned them and plugged them back in, but still no spark. My stupid Haynes manual is NO help, and where it's supposed to cover DIS ignition systems, has cut and paste the HEI section. *shake* I checked the ECU fuse, and I checked that the pink and black wire to the coil-packs had 12v with a test light, so that stuff is all getting power.
Where do I begin here? Does anyone have links to pictures, or some kind of trouble shooting guide for this engine specifically? I can't even tell by looking how I'm supposed to R&R the coilpack/module assembly. All I can tell is that it will be a PITA.
Help Please!!
Well for starters the coil packs are just the same as the normal ignition module and coil in terms of a intermittent start no start or running issue.Like for instance my 85 cav has the one coil and normal distributor set up and if the coil or igniton module were to fail or cut out it is a sign of the part failing not necessarily a short or bad connection.I would replace both packs and you might as well do the wires too not because they are old but ,if u do the packs and the wires are weak or old it could become a problem again with missing or irratic idle.Coils are fickle and while u did check for fire and it worked at the time does not mean it will not happen agian.IF these are the original equipment I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the packs being the car is 17 yrs old!! I have owned my 1st gen for 11 yrs and replaced my coil just last yr and the ignition module b4 that due to intermittent hesistating to start and try again to run normal with no running issues just starting only at any time.
Thanks very much for the reply, but I still have a couple issues. I guess I should really make the function and importance of this car clear. It cost me $500, 3 years ago, and it's sole function in life is to be cheap and good on gas. Spending a bunch of money to replace parts because I might as well isn't an option - I just need to get this thing running for another month or so. Normally I'd agree with you 100%, but I guess my point is if this repair is going to cost more than $200-$300, it's getting scrapped. The other issue I have with pointing at the coilpacks is that if it were one of the two coil packs, the engine would try to start on two cylinders, but it doesn't. It either starts or it doesn't. That says to me that the ECM, the Module, or one of the sensors has an intermittent function. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the solid state Ignition and Engine control modules are prone to that kind of intermittent fail. If they ARE, then that would be the first thing to try. What I would really, really hate to do is contort myself into a pretzel for several hours and spend $200 on an ignition module or a pair of coil packs and find out there's still an intermittent connection.
Would something like this throw a code I could use to identify the source of the problem?
I'm still looking for a photo of how to get at the ignition components. I'm not a small person, and I have several war wounds just from trying to get my hands on the wiring down there.
I did actually swap the plug wires a couple of years ago... that was my last experience trying to work on the ignition on this setup. I've never had it take an hour to change plug wires before!!!
The Detroit engineer gods certainly spent a lot of time thinking about how to make it really hard to reach the ignition system on the OHV 2.2's!!
I am fairly small and you work by feel being contorted into places that a human should never go.
Intermittent problems are the hardest to fix. IT is much easier when the car is dead and towed in for repairs.
A faulty crank position sensor could be the cause. Not all that expensive but it is mounted right below the coils just above the oil pan joint. Held in by one 10mm nut and then is a press fit with an o-ring to seal the oil in.
Sadly, electronic stuff is hard to diagnosis. Even the modern diagnosis systems we have today are unable to always pinpoint to the exact problem.l Even the pro's with all the professional grade toys often resort to plugging things in just to see if maybe that works! Sometimes the ONLY way to find a problem is to start replacing parts.
Do you know anyone with the same engine? Have him come over and start swapping parts until his does not run and yours does? (would have to be a really good buddy!!)
Dave
Thanks. I did look into the CPS as well, and it's the cheapest to just replace and hope for the best. I need to do some crossover parts investigation. I have access to a 2003 2.2 ecotek... It may have the same CPS, but I don't think anything else in the ignition system is the same.
