ok so ive already started searching and reading up on this. but in the meantime i am posting a short vid up to show what the car is doing. the consensus in the threads ive read so far was to check the IAC, which i have done to no avail.
so far i have checked the IAC and EGR sensors and they appear to be fine. no CELs (well, one for the rear o2 sensor...but thatll be replaced soon enough)
im assuming its a vacuum leak, but im not sure how to check for it or really where to start. but i'll be doing that shortly.
the vid shows how it was acting today. yesterday it would stay around 3-4k during idle AND driving. i didnt have to push in on the gas for it to accelerate.
also, when i took my TB cover off to check the sensors, this is what i found (pics are of the back side of the TB cover and the hose that it goes into behind the TB)
now ive owned 3 2.4s and this is the first MT 2.4 that i've had and ive never had any of these problems before. any help would be great.
all else fails, blame paul
This is completely different but my civic rev'd itself when the tps was defective. Not sure if GM would be the same???
I would clean the IAC with Throttle body cleaner also the Throttle body and also check the map sensor vacuum hose...then reset the computer. Whats the stuff inside the breather hose?Anyway I would take make sure it is not clogged.
well you have a lot of buildup in the air output tube for the oil air separater.. .you may need to replace that...
theres a howto on jbodysource.org
http://www.jbodysource.org/wiki/LD9OilAirSeparator
from the sound of the engine, sounds like a large vaccum leak but i'd take a look at the oil air separator first
^ Eh, don't replace it, just pull the tube off (it pops straight up) and clean it out. You'll also want to clean that stuff out of your airbox. BTW, as nasty as it looks, that stuff is normal, you just seem to have a lot of build up.
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no doubt about it...thats a vacuum leak
unplug the IAC and see what happens
I had that problem ,but mine was not reving as high,mine turned out to be the timing was off one tooth.so if you touched the timing it could be it.also check that L shaped hose that connects that metal pipe to the front of the throttle body.just some of the problems i had with my 97 z24. hope this helps
Shifted wrote:^ Eh, don't replace it, just pull the tube off (it pops straight up) and clean it out. You'll also want to clean that stuff out of your airbox. BTW, as nasty as it looks, that stuff is normal, you just seem to have a lot of build up.
Chances are he probably has the build up in his oil/air separator as well... in any event, my car stopped dumping oil through that tube after changing it
thanks for the suggestions guys. i think im gonna push the mustang out of the garage tonight and put the drop top in there and take the whole intake-to-manifold off and see if i can figure something out.
any suggestions on how to check?
DTP: i got your call today. thanks for that! i guess i'll start by spraying fluid on the intake S tube, then the tb cover, then the vac lines under that, then the mani itself.
Did you check the vaccum hose on the map sensor? This si very common to have them rot and suck air. Try spraying TB cleaner around the manifold, TB etc while the car is running. You will know when you find the leak,.
FU Tuning
i tried doing that but didnt notice any considerable jump in the engine. a buddy of mine is giving me a whole intake mani/tb (and sensors and hoses, i think) so i hope to put all of that on tomorrow sometime.
i took it half apart this evening (before i got the call about the free mani/tb/etc) and cleaned out the TB cover and that hose below it. damn....it looked like cholesterol. what exactly causes that?
thanks for the help so far. i suck so horribly at diagnosing problems. if you tell me to take something off and replace it, now thats a different story. but diagnosing? i am teh suxor
Ben that "chlosterol" looking stuff is oil... if its milky, it may be mixed with antifreeze or water...
that tube is only supposed to redirect air back to the TB (its like a PCV valve, but they used an oil air separator)... theres another tube that runs on the timing chain housing thats supposed to feed the oil back to the motor...
how exactly is oil getting into there?
The one tube is your CV hose,per Chilton's manual,the air/oil separator is a separate thing,change that gasket that Speedline suggested,it helps.That buildup is NOT normal,you get normal looking oil that is blow-by that flows thru the CV hose back thru the t.b. and back into the engine to be burned off by normal combustion.That strange colored buildup you have is the same as I had when I had a bad headgasket.t was the same color as my oil was on my dipstick.A peanut buttery,chocolate colored oil is usually anti-freeze mixed with oil,so you could have some problems starting to happen.
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
so far nothing of the sort like that is on my dipstick when i check the oil. so thats good.
If you have a way of checking your MAP sensor reading I would suggest checking them against a know good engine. My 02 likes to do that with the new cams and the MAP reading at idle is a lot higher (or lower) than it would be with normal cams.
alright.....
i took everything up to the mani off. did my best to clean all the connections, etc. cleaned the tb. cleaned the hose and tb cover with the build up, etc. i checked the small hose connected to the sensor (cant remember which one it is) and it was in fine shape. i get it all back together and it starts acting like it did before -- idling around 3k.
then after a minute or two like that ^^^ it went back to the same old bouncing up and down, like in the first vid.
now a friend is giving me his intake mani and tb and im gonna put that on and see if it gets any better. other than that......suggestions are still appreciated.
this is gonna sound funny...but I've done it before. On the fuel rail, there's a little metal bracket that is supposed to go between the manifold and the intake bolt on the right side. I've accidently stuck that between the manifold and the head, making a huge leak. idling 3k...NO QUESTION....you got a vacuum leak bud.
Biggs...his head gasket is fine, I just rebuilt that motor 10k miles ago
I assure you, that buildup is due to his air/oil separator being a little dirty, and if he's SUPER concerned about it, he can change it for a new one for like 25 dollars, but it's not going to cause any drivability issues or hurt anything
alright.....this is gonna sound weird, but the car is running fine now
so i did everything above like i said and drove it to elizabeth and home (bout 25-30 minute round trip) and it drove horribly. then i drove it to mineral wells tonight (cause i needed to get a bottle of rum to drink my worries away) and by the time i got to mineral wells (25-30 minutes one way) it was not acting up much at all. so when i went in the store i left the car running. come back out and its fine. saw a friend at the store and talked to him for about 5 minutes with the car idling the whole time and again, no problems at all. drove home and its not doing a damned thing.
so maybe it just needed cleaned???
either way ive got an extra tb and intake mani in case it starts acting up again.
BTW....thanks to everyone who has posted. its this sort of thing that makes being premo (or even just a member) well worth it!
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Friday, April 04, 2008 9:58 PM
thats good...
yeah... sometimes the ECM has to relearn after you clean the sensors and such
thats what i thought afterwards.....but i didnt think that just cleaning it would fix anything, since it really acted like a vacuum leak. again,
?
but hey....if it works, then great, ya know?
Start spraying brake cleaner everywhere and listen for a leak.My car has been sitting for a while,and when i started it up,it had a few vacuum leaks.I found 1 on the egr valve.It was coming from from that metal pipe that goes to the intake manifold.Right where it bolted to the egr valve is where it was leaking from.I just put some high temp silicone to seal it up.I also found 1 of my fuel injector o-rings leaking.Also check that big brake booster hose in the back of the engine,that could be leaking also.
Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
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The J engine or PCM is kind of temperamental....sometimes just resetting the comp will fix it.
it must be very tempermental because its doing it again
went out to go to town today and it was idling around 3500 again.
gonna have to rip it apart and install the other tb and mani.
