This is going to be fun to try to explain... Alright, when I'm driving at around 30mph and the car is about as low in the r's as it will go in 3rd before it will go back down to second (in a 3pd auto, mind you) the car jolts/surges pretty badly. Ok, very badly. It doesn't want to stall at all just jolts the whole engine like im punching the gas reeeeeal quickly...It's pretty much like that feeling when you try to put the clutch in on a standard without enough gas and it shudders real bad ....yeah, thats the feeling. I give it some gas, bring it up around 40mph+ and it's fine. Does this sound like an engine problem perhaps? or more like a tranny problem? My car has 130,000 miles on it and this is transmission #2... So I'm kind of hoping it's not quite time for another rebuild.
Sounds like the pump in the tranny is going/gone. Possible it's other like the TC or Bearings, but doubtful.
Your torque converter lockup is not disengaging. At speed this bypasses the torque converter to prevent slippage and improve mileage. On the 3spd auto you can remove the plug at the front of the transmission near the radiator. This will prevent the lockup from engaging. You can drive the car with it disconnected but your mpg will suffer. Most times the lockup solenoid is faulty. If the symptoms disappear after the plug is removed this will confirm it.
Ernest Schulze wrote:Your torque converter lockup is not disengaging. At speed this bypasses the torque converter to prevent slippage and improve mileage. On the 3spd auto you can remove the plug at the front of the transmission near the radiator. This will prevent the lockup from engaging. You can drive the car with it disconnected but your mpg will suffer. Most times the lockup solenoid is faulty. If the symptoms disappear after the plug is removed this will confirm it.
TCC solenoid is exactly what I was thinking as well.
Jackass wrote:Ernest Schulze wrote:Your torque converter lockup is not disengaging. At speed this bypasses the torque converter to prevent slippage and improve mileage. On the 3spd auto you can remove the plug at the front of the transmission near the radiator. This will prevent the lockup from engaging. You can drive the car with it disconnected but your mpg will suffer. Most times the lockup solenoid is faulty. If the symptoms disappear after the plug is removed this will confirm it.
TCC solenoid is exactly what I was thinking as well.
Agreed
...They just HATE it when you ...POINT - LAUGH - then DRIVE OFF AND AWAY-!...
Indeed you are all correct. I removed that plug and the shuddering stopped. My next question, as probably expected: Is the solenoid something I can get to and replace from outside the transmission, or is something that you can only get to form inside the trans? Nonetheless, thanks for the diagnosis!
On the other hand, if you feel you cannot do the job yourself you will at least know what the problem is and what is involved. So don't let a repair shop try and rip you off. You don't need a transmission rebuild.
Me once again. You can decide if you want to leave the TCC plug off or not. My nephew drives his Cavalier with it permanently disconnected. He has a 40 mile commute each way every day and says he is still happy with his fuel consumption. In town driving you will hardly know the TCC lockup is missing and your fuel consumption will not be much lower than with it connected.
This is just a thought because you might not want to spend too much time or money on a high mileage vehicle.
This is what I used to change mine on a '93 2.2, less complicated way of doing it.
You will need a new solenoid and possibly a trans cover gasket.
http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fiero/TCC.htm
This article, by Chuck Kichline (Many thanks), gave me the insight into how it works and the confidence to do it.
This is written for a Fiero but is almost identical to ours.
I jacked up the left front and used stands, removed the left front wheel and trim behind it, To remove the lowest trans case bolt I jacked the engine up very slightly and blocked it . A very small amount of trans fluid leaked out, because the unit is tilted to the right.
With the trans cover removed the solenoid can be seen and is held in by one screw.
I checked the trans fluid level after the completion test drive and just added the small amount required.
Hope this helps
Alont
Thanks for that. Does seem much easier now.
Thanks a lot. All this info is very much appreciated...Looks like I have something to do this weekend!
Same prob here with my 4t40e 4 speed,Ill have to look into this.
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
