alrighty, kinda cruddy gas milage, and a miss after warming up, power loss, CE light after warm up. TV cable needs replacement.

New plugs, wires, and EGR
Could an improperaly sealed EGR housing cause those problems? or an old fuel filter? or both?

Where the hell can I buy a new TV cable? How do I adjust it to lower the shift points, mine only seems to raise them. and the lowest I got it was at like 22mph with the cable pushed ALL the way back away from the TB.

I bought my last TV cable at Advance Auto. You might get a Chilton's while you are there so you can read the CE codes, it gives a pretty good way to jumper the diag plug for "flashes". Since your Sunbird is a '95, i think it's OBD I, Autozone or Advance will scan the ODB II cars i think. A consistant miss usually is plug wire or plug related, pull your plugs and see if one is black or fouled. Might be an injector, have you tried any injector cleaner? Seafoam is pretty good as well as Chevron Injector cleaner. If you don't know when your fuel filter was last changed, i'd also do that.
Don

if you have never changed your O2 sensor, that may be a possibility.

You would need a scope to verify this. but on a Ford Thunderbird I worked on it had the same sypntoms as your car and turns out it was the coil.

Does it miss more under hard acceleration, than normal acceleration?




- 2004 Cavalier - 124k, owned since new

Brand new Plugs and wires, Plugs were Pre-gaped, as well as the miss is off/on, so Couldn't be distrbutor replated. it misses equally WHEN it is missing... if that makes sense....

2 questions then, How hard is it to replace the TV cable yourself, I unbolted it just to give it a tug to see where it goes... do I have to pull the tranny to attach the new one or what do I have to do?

If it was an O2, wouldn't it be throwing codes for that? Only codes its throwing are EGR, but the EGR is brand new... if it wasn't sealed with RTV and just the gasket could that cause this intermettent problem?

Replacing the TV cable isn't hard, you have to pop the trans pan off and you can see the wire connector end there. It has one bolt that attaches the cable to the trans and the clips on the top next to the TB. EGR can cause misses, and if it's having codes for the EGR i'd look there first. Did you replace the original with a Gm/Delco or another brand. Some of them are "generic" and have to be set like the original for plunger travel / stroke. I replaced one on my mom's car with one from Advance, had to set the stroke there were instructions in the box. An O2 sensor might cause a problem, but a miss is usually ingnition or injector related. Was it doing it before the plug/wire change? If not, then one of the new parts is bad. Happens.
Don

my roomate replaced it FOR the prior owner, so I'll ask what he replaced it with... but I can't see how u'd change anything on it, all u can see is the bellhousing, 95 was diffrent from the rest I thought? Before the plugs and wires and airfilter the car had nearly no power, didn't drive it enough for it to warm up to feel a miss though, so dunno about that. O2 looks pretty new, how much is a new one though?

Alrighty, The pattern has finally arisen. Only after the car has reached operating temperature, it has a mis, and a large amount of power-loss under anything pass light throttle. Any thoughts?

Well, for what they are worth my thoughts are:-

1. Agreeing with Rob S above-coil/ignition fault-because I have come across very similar faults.

then

2. Engine Temperature sensor-because the fault only occurs after warm up



Alont

Do you think that it could be related to it having the Green coolant *I know I know, I've had the car less than a week, Flushed it out yesterday with Dexcool* could have been causing it? I haven't driven since I flushed it.

The coolant type, green or Dex-cool dosen't matter to the sensors they just look at temp. Sounds like a coil or ingition related problem or maybe a temp sensor or TPS sensor. The ECM dosen't go into closed loop until the engine's up to operating temp, it runs on default settings until then. After it goes into closed loop it uses the sensors to determine what to do with the injectors & timing. Guess it could be the knock sensor pulling out timing because of the miss. The miss might be causing enough noise for the knock sensor to think it's knocking and thus the loss of power. If you could get it scanned while it's hot it might tell you some info pointing to something.
Don

would a TPS sensor also affect Shift points because of the TV cable on my 3 speed?

I don't think its coil related because it drives perfectly fine for the first 10-15 min of driving, it isn't untill after then the car starts to really miss, So how do I re-adjust the EGR? i took it off to look at it, and I seriously see no way to adjust it.

Ok, so after 10-15 min it starts missing pretty badly

other 2 problems *Maybe related?*

Really bad Exhaust rattle after warmed up, I assume its just toast
Car will not upshift out of first if I go WOT, hits red and bounces.
Floor it, from anything will always downshift to first.
TV cable still? cause it still wont upshfit under even the lightest of accelration untill 22mph.

Bump? any help?

wow, ever get tis fixed? Sounds like a bad ignition module to me.




-=[2004 JBody Bash - '82-'94 Street Modified - Third Place]=-
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/

[TZ3] 1994 Cavalier Z24 Convertible, Automatic, (Boost around the bend)
[TZ2] 1993 3.1 Liter V6 Intercooled TurboChevrolet Cavalier Z24 Convertible 5 speed
:: REST IN PIECES :: (Parts available, PM me!)
1994 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon 5sp/EJ22 - Daily Driver
N3LEE - Amateur Radio