I just put on some new calipers i tried my hardest to keep the master cylinder full of fluid but perhaps it got too low?.. I put the new calipers on i bled each wheel like 3-4 times starting from farthest to master cylinder and working my way closer.
Anyway the pedal still feels way "spongyer"? then when i started so i must need to bleed the master cylinder anyone know how?
I've never bled one on the car, there might be a way but if there is I don't know what it is. I've bench bled new ones before, before they are put on. To do that you get it off the car and put it in a bench vise. Plug off the brake line holes and put brake fluid in it, then use a screwdriver to manually push in the piston. I guess it might be possible to just plug off the brake lines while it's in the car and pump the brakes, that theoretically should have the same effect but I dunno for sure.
You can't outrun the radio.
try bleeding the brakes with the engine running.
some GMs with ABS require this.
Well Brandon Schmidt :
Just get a buddy to sit in youre car, With the car not running, get him to pump the brake pedal 3 times to allow pressure to accure, Then after the 3rd brake pedal press hes got to hold it steady until you loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper, Then Each time you bleed all 4 bleeders you should have a normal brake pedal feeling again.
Good Luck
i asked how to bleed master cylinder not the brakes themselves ive already done that several times
Well have you removed the master cyl? Last time I checked their is a tech1 scan tool to relieve tension on gears inside ABS unit. Usually you just have to add brake fluid to the master cyl it primes its self when bleeding the brake system.
i dont know ive heard a couple different ways.. i didnt change master cylinder i added new calipers so the master cylinder got too low.. all you have to do is read my original post and it would answer post of your posts..lol
Did you try the bench bleed method? I did just remember there is an ABS bleeding procedure you can do with the scan tool. I'm not sure if that would help, but it couldn't hurt.
You can't outrun the radio.
well Ive gone alot of complete brake jobs, Never had a problem with getting air out of the system. If you brakes are still spongy, Their is still more air in youre system, As 94 Red Bird : has said there is a method called bench bleed way, In which is done when the master cyl is new out of the box, In which is the same way of pumping the brakes, releasing the bleeder screws. Other way is to buy one of those brake bleeder hand gauge pump. If the spongy brakes still occur then something else could be wrong, Rear brakes may need to be adjusted.
Please remember,
brake fluid goes in from the top...
Air has to be bled from the bottom...
what are you saying?.. air rises
Actualy the fluid forces the air out so since the fluid will come out with gravity it will force the air out the bottom. To bleed a master cylinder on a car you would do just like you would on a bench but its a hell of alot easier since its bolted on you don't have to worry about it moveing. Also its far easier to press the brake pedal with your leg then a screwdriver with your hand. I used to do them on a bench till I stoped and thought about it and realized it was infinetly easier once it was already on the car. Next time you guys do one try I bet you'll never bench bleed again!
As for your problem whats beed recomended a few times by others would be the way I would do it myself. Just fill the master cylinder and open the bleeder valves on both calipers and keep an eye on it. Once the fluid runs clear shut the bleeders have a friend
START the car and then bleed the brakes with the car running. Nothing bleeds them faster or better then useing the power brake presure the car has while its running.
NOTHING! And yes this is how I do my cars and it always without fail works like a charm. In fact this is how I do all the brake jobs I do. Work smarter not harder I always say.
Semper Fi SAINT. May you rest in peace.
If that doesnt work you can have someone hold the pedal as if you were bleeding the system and crack the lines loose on the master one at a time until you get only fluid, that will bleed air out of the master.
i dont know.. i think the bleeding is fine but i think may have a bad wheel cylinder in the drums.. they always want to lock up and squeak and brake awkard. and yes i know how to adjust them with the clicker thing etc so its not that
