Ok, my 2000 cavalier has continually given me an issue with the tps since I put in the new motor and wiring harness. I have replaced the sensor 3 times, 2 used and 1 brand new. I replaced the ecu, I also checked for continuity between the sensor plug and the ecu. I checked the continuity by using a 12 volt battery, a 15 inch neon and plugged 1 side into the sensor plug and the other into the ecu harness, when it lit up, it worked, obviously. Now I am beginning to wonder if I have to have the tps calibrated to the ecu somehow, if so, how do I go abouts doing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Scott


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so...what makes you think the tps is bad?

Oh yea! I suppose that wouldb good 2 explain. The check engine light is on and it gives me 2 codes, both of which are the same, tps low voltage. I think that's p0114. I don't really remember off the top of my head.

Scott


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Sounds like a wiring harness issue to me. What are the Ohm readings to and from the TPS?


Tach Out Motorsports
Option D Inc.

see, thats where I am stumped. I looked at my haynes manual and it says what to do but it doesn't tell me which wires to connect it too. How do I know which ones I connect my multimeter to? thanks

Scott


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did u put the same year ecu in? does the ecu and motor match? is it a junk yard ecu or ebay?

the ecu is from my year, a 2000, its my ecu, the tps was from a 2001, a 1998, and a 2000. The ecu that matched the motor died. The motor and ecu were out of a 2001. Its both a junkyard and ebay motor/ecu/supercharger/tranny. The ecu died and I put my old ecu on it. I got this issue with the tps sensor ever since the ecu crashed, and for some reason it still gives me an issue with a new sensor and ecu. The fuel cuts at 4K if I don't have full throttle, but I think thats just cause of the tps issue. I thought it would be wiring, because of this being an issue with both the ecu's and I never had an issue before, but when I checked the wiring with that 12volt battery and the light, everything checked out.

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
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Have you checked your map sensor?

how do u know the fuel is cutting? do you have a fpr and gauge? If so what is the fp dropping to when it cuts?

Well, I checked the map sensor aka pulled the plug while the car was running and the car died. So I am not so sure it has anything 2 do with that, plus I have had map sensor issues b4 and the car tends 2 suck down fuel like a bastard when the map is screwed up.

I have an af guage and when the car seems to bog, it shows that the car is leaning hard.

I was kinda wondering, would it have anything to do with the map sensor being from the supercharger kit and the ecu not having the reflash? IDK, just kinda running out of ideas.

What's the diference between the map sensors anyway, physically, like the s/n, so I can verify that I actually have the sc map sensor.

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
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they prob look exactly the same, but see if there is a part number if not just order a new one, Unless your a/f gauge is hooked up to a wideband i dont trust them.....Are you running the charger now? Have you tried putting the old ecu back in, with the s/c map sensor? to see what happens?

And what exactly is the car doing? Is it just throwing a code? also check your charging system make sure everything is to the right voltage.....umm....You could always just buy a new TPS and if it doesn't change take it back.....I would make sure the map sensor is from the kit, having the right map sensor is crucial. Are you reseting the computer each time you do this so it clears out any info?

My AIM is Liquidred098...if i'm online you can ask me more ?'s to get to the answer quicker

ok, so I used my multimeter this time and got some good readings! As it stands, the grey wire, which is the voltage wire is only seeing 0.3 volts. The dark blue, signal wire, sees from 0.03 to (you guessed it, for obvious reasons) 0.3 volts. Now I just recently rescanned my ecu for more codes and it seems that the fuel pressure sensor is seeing a low reading too. Now, according to my haynes, between the fuel pressure sensor, the tps, and the map sensor, they all have 5v input. The MAP sensor is seeing 5volts, I don't know about the fuel pressure sensor tho, I couldn't find those wires. So, anyone have any idea why the TPS is only seeing 0.3 volts?

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
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nobody?

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
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I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.

0.300-0.500 volts at idle or with the key on is normal.When you turn the the throttle,the voltage should go up also.If the voltage jumps around,the tps is bad.If it goes up smoothly,its good.With the throttle wide open,it should read anywhere from 4.60-5.00 volts.Did you change the throttle body or anything?You might have to adjust the idle screw to bring the tps voltage up to spec at idle.


Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust

just to add some info we were talking about this the other day and comparing it to my car.. the highest i saw was 4.00volts at WOT and my car sits @ 0.31volts anytime the throttle is closed. the other main problem i see is on my scanner it shows throttle position mine is 0 untill you touch the throttle the goes up accordingly. his is 0 and stays there. but im thinking its gotta be in one of the connectors or the PCM itself because we tried a known good TPS off of my car with no change.
just some food for thought!

I am thinkin that I have a bad ground somewhere or the ecu wiring harness is a piece. But I had ground issues b4, so this wouldn't b a first. I think I am gonna find the ecu ground and hard wire it to the ground on the battery, c if that helps

Thanks guys

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.

When you check the voltage on your tps,one of the wires should read 5 volts with the key on.If your not getting 5 volts,you have a shorted wire somewhere.Did you check the main ecu ground that bolts to the transmission?Id check that first if i were you.Good luck.


Peter
'06 Cobalt ss/sc W/G85 Package
Gm Stage II W/2.79" Pulley
K&N Drop In Filter
Custom Magnaflow Dual Exhaust

well this is what I did. I checked continuity on all three grounds that come from the ecu and they all check out to be ok. I thought that maybe because the battery is in the trunk, there is an issue with ground to the battery anyway, so next what I did is ran two 10 guage wires from the battery to the ecu ground location on the transmission. Guess what, STILL have the issue! IDK what to do now. One thing that bothered me is that I left my battery unplugged for 4 hours and as soon as I plugged it back in and turned the car on, the check engine light stayed on. It never went off, seemed like it never reset itself. Any suggestions???

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.

Just incase anyone was curious, I torched the car. Took it out to an open area, poured gas all over it and torched it with two full bottles of NAWZ, it lit up the night sky. Went home and reported it stolen. They laughed at me and said I didn't have that kind of coverage.

Kidding.

Turns out that another code came on too that was never noticed by autozone. It was the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor. I cut a hole in the floor and replaced the sensor thinking it grounded out the system when it blew. Replaced the sensor and it still was all fubared. I was gonna jump the wiring from the sensor to inside the car and skip the wiring harness cause I noticed that when I disconnected the sensor I would get the 4.99 volts back. In the wiring to both the FTPS and the TPS. Also noticed there was continuity between the power and ground when the sensor was connected. Continuity between the battery positive and the chassis. When I went to cut the wires I noticed they were melted together. I pulled them apart, taped them up and thats all she wrote. Everything now runs great!

I figured that when I had the exhaust cut to the cat the hot exhaust fumes must have melted them together. So just about two years of torture is over..... for now. Thanks to all whom helped. I appreciate it. I am just goin to copy and paste this to all the posts I made about the issue.



Scott

When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.