ok... my car is a 98z, white in color. the paint is pretty decent in terms of gloss and quality. the car has 95,XXX miles and the paint looks to have been kept nice. ive waxed it at least 20 times since ive owned it.

my plans for spring are to paint my front bumper (brand new stock 95-99 z24), side skirts (stock used 03-05 Ls Sport side skirts), and rear bumper (brand new 2002 z24/ls sport w/ bottom lip), as well as a JSP carbon fiber trunk lid that WILL be painted.

i'll have you know that the body shop im planning on doing this at is a reputible place and is known for good work. but they havnt seen my car yet to determine its ability for matching paint.

my questions are:
would it be ok to paint these pieces the stock paint code without any matching computer programs or "play it by eye" painters? IMO, i think it will be ok, at least on the body kit because its down low and the sun doesnt really directly hit those areas of the car. please correct me if i am wrong.

i want the best possible paint to be used, would this be PPG? do you think it would match the stock color?

im just worried about it not matching the best, but i dont see how a base-coat clear coat BASE color could fade (if it can, fine...please school me) i can however see how the clear can fade, but since i wax the hell out of it... would it be ok? the car is a show car and i want the best for it. please help me on finding the best course of action.

thanks a lot guys.

I wouldn't paint the CF stuff, get FG if you want to paint it. The CF has a lot of dimples that aren't visible when its cf, but if you put paint on it, it'll look bad. To get it to look right, you'll have to add a lot of body filler, which will negate any weight savings you get with cf, so just go f/g. Its easier to work with anyway.





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i cant. i need the CF. its not nessesarily just for the weight savings. this sucks man i guess i'll have them make it as smooth as posible, idk what u mean tho, my hood doesnt have any "dimples" in it, so hmmm...

o-BASF makes excellent paint.




STREET ANTIX, it's coming...

paint the whole car, and i wouldnt paint the CF either.

Vincent Morris wrote:paint the whole car, and i wouldnt paint the CF either.

i really wish i could, but im so anal... i would have to seriously take every single part, peice off... inlcuding the entire drive train and interior to paint my car, as well as all the glass, so im not seeing that happen for like 20 years.

thanks for the imput guys

1. White is a biotch to match... you wouldn't think so, but I'd bet there are literally HUNDREDS of whites out there... and yes it does stain and fade... so if you JUST paint the bumpers/sides/whatever... you WILL notice it. An option to fix this without painting the WHOLE car would be to have the shop blend it... however... with that amount of blending you might as well just paint the whole car so it looks decent.

2. As far as paint brands, there's tons of them... I like DuPont, some prefer PPG, and there's others. Usually when you go to a shop you don't have a choice. Most shops have contracts with ONE paint company, so if you want a different paint, you have to go to a different shop.

3. Clear can't really fade.... it's clear. It can stain, but not really fade. Clear will NOT prevent base coat from fading... it's clear. Think about it. If you lay on a table for example... in a glass room, with the blaring hot sun on you... can you still get sunburnt? I'd be prettty safe to say yes you can. The clear coat is not 100% effective at all in blocking out all of the sun/uv rays. So you have a car that is almost or is 9 years old... that's 9 years of the sun beating on the car... yes... it's faded.

4. If you don't blend the paint or just repaint the car, you're going to REALLY notice the difference in the newly painted parts. Even if you "computer match" it... it's not exact. A "paint scanner" will only give you the closest "stock" color to the color your vehicle is. Sure it'll make it less noticable, but you'll still notice.

And, if you just blend the paint in... you're going to have to:

a. blend the front bumper into the fenders and hood
b. blend the side skirts into the fenders, door, and quarter panels
c. blend the rear bumper into the quarter panels and trunk

So... you're painting the front bumper, both fenders, hood, doors, side skirts, rear quarter panels, rear bumper, and trunk. The only things you're NOT painting is the roof, and those little pillars in between the rear and rear side windows.

Granted with blending, you're not putting base coat on the WHOLE panels you're blending into, but you still have to reclear everything... so if you're going to go through all that trouble, why not just repaint the whole car?

to me blending is a waste, i would just paint the whole car.

but IMO, stock plastic pieces such as bumpers look a tad different right from the factory in terms of shade. so im thinking i'll be ok if they match the color.

also, i had an 89 beretta, which is considerably older than my 98...
i had a set of testorossa style side skirts painted and put on, and they did NOTHING to the old paint around it except buff it and it matched just fine.

but its ok, im going to have them paint a test peice and see how it comes out, if its a lost cause, obviously i wont bother til i have enough to paint the whole damn car.


i am planning on spending $2000 for the trunk lid and stock body kit just to be painted.

i say wait and paint the whole car, whats wrong with the front bumper u already have on the car? i painted my side skirts on my old z and u could tell even in my garage/dark areas.


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i keep it gully like im havin a old friend for lunch

have the body shop match the paint by computer it will work
take them a peice of the car with the parts (gas cap door is good)

they did mine that way and you cant tell

ministock64 wrote:have the body shop match the paint by computer it will work
take them a peice of the car with the parts (gas cap door is good)

they did mine that way and you cant tell

That doesn't always work. There's a lot of factors, as in how "old" the paint is, fading, staning, what color it is (some colors are more difficult than others), etc.

You wouldn't think so, but white is one of the harder colors to match... period.

let me explain how those computer things work..... they match your paint to the closest paint in their database... lets say you had Toyota Super Red... car is old, it faded, still looks good, but looks a lot more like GM Victory red... it will match it to that.... if it's the closest match... it doesnt give a formular on custom mixing the exact faded hue that it scans... and i personaly wouldnt take the chance of just scanning it with a computer laser thing and ordering paint and letting them go at it with white....


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

I just bought a 20 inch widescreen ultrasharp flat pannel..I'm going to have to subscribe to the high quality porn places now......damn

why would u paint the cf? thats prolly a $400 lid that u prolly like the shaved lock or something. why not get a stock lid for $50 and shave that?

im just confused y you would HAVE to have a cf lid just to be painted?

Joey Baggs (Eazy716) wrote:why would u paint the cf? thats prolly a $400 lid that u prolly like the shaved lock or something. why not get a stock lid for $50 and shave that?

im just confused y you would HAVE to have a cf lid just to be painted?

because its a secret... lol i will post pics if it all works out, it pry wont be THAT big of a deal, but nobody that i know of has done it yet.