Power window conversion (write up with pictures) - Interior Forum - j-body.org

Power window conversion (write up with pictures) - Interior Forum

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Power window conversion (write up with pictures)

Monday, June 19, 2006 7:56 PM

I did this write up to give something back to the community. I hope it helps answer any questions that are floating around

J-body power window conversion How-To

This conversion was performed on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire coupe using the A1 Electric Life window kit www.alelectric.com and 2 button console mount switch kit. This conversion can be done for roughly $250-$300 and a couple 4 hour days of work with 2 people. I recommend taking your time because if it is rushed you will make mistakes.
The kit itself does come with instructions and this write up is made to accent it. This how-to is for extra reference and to let the community know what to expect before they decide to do a conversion.

PARTS
right window motor/regulator
left window motor/regulator
tracks from stock regulator
switches
switch bezels
door window crank caps
main power wire (20-25 amp fuse)
left window power wire
right window power wire
switch illumination wire
ground wire

TOOLS
drill and drill bits
drill tap
ratchet and socket set with extension
Phillips, standard screwdrivers
wire crimpers/strippers
pliers
electrical connectors (14 - 18 gauge rated)
electrical tape
zip ties
a lot of extra 20-25 amp fuses!
wire clothes hanger

OPTIONAL
electrical test light
dremel
torx screwdriver

Installing driver side regulator. (Passenger side shown in some pictures. don't worry. It is the same, just mirrored)

DO THE DRIVER SIDE FIRST!!
Start with removing the driver side door panel and sill and place out of the way(fig.1a) To remove the window cranks you will need to have a crank removal tool or simply find an old rag and slide it between the crank and the door, moving back and forth to pop out the hidden C clip.

There will be a plastic lining glued on the door frame. cut this out for now, it can be taped back on at the end of the project. Using the removed window crank, lower the window so that the two bolts on each end of the window (bottom) are visible within the door frame (fig. 1b). These hold the window to the regulator. Remove with a socket + extension and carefully slide the window out of the door.

There are four rivets that will be holding the stock regulator in place. To remove them you will need to tap a pilot hole on the center of each rivet(fig. 2a) and drill them out starting with a small 1/8" dia. drill bit (fig. 2b) and then using a 1/4" dia. bit. (If the rivet starts to spin tuck a flat head screwdriver in between the rivet and door to hold it still.) Once the the rivets are drilled out the regulator will fall. Remove the two other screws holding the main track to the door frame (fig. 2c) and slide the regulator from the door. Place it along side the new powered regulator. (fig 2d)

You will need to remove the tracks from the stock regulator and place them in the same configuration on the new one (fig. 2d). Using a pair of pliers or a screwdriver, lift up the tabs at the end of the tracks. Simply slide out the track and apply it to the new regulator. Don't forget to crimp down the tabs after they are installed (fig. 3a) This is what stops the motor from going to high/low.

Remove the mounting bolts(x3) from the new regulator and slide the regulator into the door frame (fig. 3b). Hand tighten the two screws that hold the main track to the door first, then position it so that the three holes on the regulator line up with three of the holes in the door. Mount with provided bolts. Once the regulator is rested in place, tighten down all bolts. The top most rivet will need to be tightened with a standard wrench because it is slightly hidden (fig. 3c). Test the regulator for power/interference before installing the glass.

Wiring for test run.

The window motor wire needs to be run through the door jamb grommet using a wire hanger. Run the wire hanger through the door frame and through the grommet first. Tape the motor wire to the hanger and pull it back through. Attach the wire to the motor (fig. 4a). Tap the main power wire with the attached fuse to your fuse box where it is only hot when the ignition is turned on.(fig. 4b) (you can check this with a test light) Run the ground wire down under the door sill. Grind away any paint with a dremel and screw the ground wire down. Tap the window switch illumination wire into the cars interior dimmer switch (fig. 4c).

Plug in the 2 motor wires, the power wire, and the 2 ground wires to one window switch. (if any two wires should happen to touch each other while the power is on you will pop the fuse so have extras handy.) Turn the car on and move the regulator up and down. It should smoothly raise and lower the regulator. ( If the up/down is reversed, switch the black/blue motor wire locations on the switch.) Now it is safe to attach the glass to the new regulator. Lower the regulator to about 3/4 down. Slide the glass in slowly and line up the brackets (fig. 4d). Tighten the two mounting bolts.

re-apply the plastic lining with duct tape to the door frame and install the crank caps on the door. You are now ready to re assemble your door trim. Follow the same regulator installation procedure for the passenger side door.

Clean up
run all of your wiring to be hidden and out the way (fig. 5a). It is a good idea to remove the bolts holding the center console so you can easily run your wires (fig. 5b, 5c). Be sure to avoid letting wires get close to linkages or other moving parts under the console.

In my case i fabricated a center bezel to hold my switches(fig. 6). This part of the job is completely up to you. Your turn to get creative.