Larry,
I don't even know if you can split the case with the axles engaged.
You may have to sacrifice the axles by cutting them off as close to the seals as possible.
After seeing what happens when the gears were not beveled enough and trying to get them off.
The clips have a square edge and need to be compressed to let the axles slide out.
The bevel allows that to happen.
Without the bevel everything has that square edge and will not separate.
Bob
I am aware of that. That is why we were having so much issues getting the tranny out, because parts of the axles were still inside the tranny. But now that its out it wil be a lot easier to cut and get to in order to take it apart
Well, the OBX is in the tranny and back on the engine.
Hope all works well once it's on the ground.
Doing a lot of other stuff while it's on the stand.
Re-wrapping the harness with heat tape, deleted all unused wires from harness.
Cleaning up the engine bay, etc.
Hope to get another 10-15 lbs. off,
Larry, How is the axle removal going?
The engine/trans axle are back in the car and all appears to be working.
No unusual noises or vibrations.
I will try to road test today if the snow melts.
Larry, How did you make out ?
Bob
Road test was successful. All things appear to be functioning as designed.
Will not get a chance to put it through it's paces until spring but all in all looks great.
Where can I find this diff? I searched eBay already.... do they even make them anymore? Also comparing this to say... Phantom Grip, Team GREEN, or Traction Concepts inserts.... better? easier install? all of them seem to be priced the same as well...
It is much easier to split this case than a Getrag 282.
The F23 is a snap to dissemble.
The only issue is holding the input shaft to un-thread the cap bolt on the secondary shaft (under the black cover).
I made a holder and it worked great.
The gear side of the case does have to be ground away for clearance for the diff.. A die grinder does the trick.
The big thing is the preload on the bearings.
I miced up the old one and then the new OBX after the bearings were pressed on.
and shimmed accordingly. Test fitted the unit and everything looked good.
A local transmission shop wanted $500 to install the diff. So I thought I would take a crack at it.
The transmission is back in the car and working flawlessly.
I would recommend this unit to everyone.
I was a bit hesitant to use it base on a few of the comments I've read on a couple of forums but decided to take a chance based on the cost of the OBX compared to the Quaife unit at $1200.
Anyone have pics of how and where to bevel the gears so the axles won't stick, also I thought I read long ago about using a break hone where the axles go in and honing .004 so the axles can slide in and out easier, any truth to this, thanks?
OBX LSD in my 500+ horsepower Sunfire, works great!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
worth noting to anybody that may be still trying to install one of these diffs, make sure you take it apart and bevel the inner gears. after years of having the diff installed, I needed to pull the axles and they were stuck in the diff. Had to hack apart the driver's side axle with a cutoff wheel in order to split the diff and get the passenger side axle out and the stub shaft of the driver's side... not a pleasant experience.
strat81 wrote:worth noting to anybody that may be still trying to install one of these diffs, make sure you take it apart and bevel the inner gears. after years of having the diff installed, I needed to pull the axles and they were stuck in the diff. Had to hack apart the driver's side axle with a cutoff wheel in order to split the diff and get the passenger side axle out and the stub shaft of the driver's side... not a pleasant experience.
Bro isn't that step 1 on the first page?
"In Oldskool we trust"
Y3llowCav wrote:strat81 wrote:worth noting to anybody that may be still trying to install one of these diffs, make sure you take it apart and bevel the inner gears. after years of having the diff installed, I needed to pull the axles and they were stuck in the diff. Had to hack apart the driver's side axle with a cutoff wheel in order to split the diff and get the passenger side axle out and the stub shaft of the driver's side... not a pleasant experience.
Bro isn't that step 1 on the first page?
Yep... and somewhere around the 2nd or 3rd page somebody mentioned that obx fixed the issue. I had also posted that mine was installed straight out of the box without issue. (Which I now know is not the case)
Hence my post...
That's unfortunate. But good info.
"In Oldskool we trust"
strat81 wrote:Y3llowCav wrote:strat81 wrote:worth noting to anybody that may be still trying to install one of these diffs, make sure you take it apart and bevel the inner gears. after years of having the diff installed, I needed to pull the axles and they were stuck in the diff. Had to hack apart the driver's side axle with a cutoff wheel in order to split the diff and get the passenger side axle out and the stub shaft of the driver's side... not a pleasant experience.
Bro isn't that step 1 on the first page?
Yep... and somewhere around the 2nd or 3rd page somebody mentioned that obx fixed the issue. I had also posted that mine was installed straight out of the box without issue. (Which I now know is not the case)
Hence my post...
So only mod you have had to do is the bevel the inner gears?
FU Tuning
my bellville washers were installed incorrectly as well. diff still seemed to function properly but I will be restacking when I reassemble.
I’m looking to install an OBX LSD IN MY GETRAG F-23. I thought it was a direct fit. But, it doesn’t seem that way. All the pictures here are super fuzzy. Can anyone post clear directions on what needs to be done here?
Can you post clear pix and details of what needs to be done with this install? I’m having trouble finding clear info on the matter.
Only thing that mine needed was to bevel the inner gears that mate with the cv’s to allow the c-clips to compress when removing the axles.
Aside from that, shim the bearings properly and install...
