Ok well i have gotten a few requests for this, And i did a step by step install procedure which should make this a very easy proses.
here it is, and not sure if you want to make this a "sticky" but i am sure it would be help full for a lot of Jbody owners looking to upgrade their pulleys with an amazing set up and very easy to change pulleys..
M45 – J-body and N-body
OEM pulley removal
1. Start by removing the radiator over flow tank. You will want to have a pop can or something else to pour the coolant into.
2. Apply anti-seize to the 8mm stud and install into the end of the 5/8 threaded rod, the 8mm washer and then install the 5/8 rod assembly into the end of the supercharger shaft
3. Apply the anti-seize to the 5/8-rod assembly where the 5/8 nut will have thread contact during the pull. Install the 5/8 nut and then both of the washers after that. The two washers together, with anti-seize between them, this will act as a thrust bearing.
4. Place the triangular top plate over the 5/8-rod and fasten to the back plate with three 3/8 bolts tightened at an equal length
5. Hold the 5/8-rod steady with a ½ socket and ratchet while turning the 5/8 nut counter-clockwise against the top plate with a 15/16 wrench, this will remove the pulley. Note you may want to slide a piece of cloth in behind the ratchet head as it will scratch up the paint some with the tight fit.
6.To prevent breaking the M8 screw, keep the 5/8 main rod tight on the supercharger shaft at all times.
7. The pulley may take quite a bit of force to remove. It is also common to hear a pop when the pulley breaks free.
Quick Change Hub installation
1. If any corrosion is present on the supercharger shaft, use an SOS pad to buff clean
2. Coat the shaft with a thick layer of anti-seize
3a. Grab a blowtorch (if there is two people working use 2 blow torches, as it will heat up more evenly) heat the hub up until you can almost see it glowing (takes about 5min with two torches)
3b. If you do not want to stand with a blowtorch for that long, turn your oven on as hot as it can go. When you start to pull the stock pulley off (Step 5.) set the hub on a pizza pan and slide it in the oven for approximately 15 min. This way it will take only a short time with the blowtorch to finish heating it up. This will also heat it up more evenly then just with the torch.
4. Once the hub is heated up enough grab it with some tongs or pliers and slide it over the shaft until the hub is flush with the end. You will only have about 2-3 seconds to get it in place until it cools off and sticks in place. If you slide it on to far you can pull it back into place, (**but let it cool down first or you could damage the hub**) this is where the hub removal plate comes in handy. Be careful you do not put the hub on to far on the initial attempt or else the hub removal plate will not fit in between the hub and supercharger to pull it off, and you will end up having to grind the hub removal plate thinner to slide it into place.
5. Now that your hub is on give it time to cool down. Once its cool enough that you can touch it, you can now install the pulley along with the 5 screws.
6. After you have taken your car out for the test drive to see what kind of power you now have check the 5 screws to make sure that they are all secure.
Any other questions you can PM me or email me at freeebs@hotmail.com
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
excellent writeup, followed these instructions and my 2.7" pulley went on easy as pie.
heated the hub with a mapp gas torch, glowing red..slipped on easy.
i used an M8 2" screw to hold it when using the torch rather than a vice.
drives nice too.. has me thinking about the 2.6 now
14.82 @ 97 mph
^ do you have alky injection? how do you like the 2.7 so far? comments!
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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
NOTE: Heating your hub/pulley as described here will void your warranty on the parts.
Just so you don't get blamed, Josh.
no instructions with the pulley in the mail. if heating it voids the warranty how might it go on the snout?
heating up to 600-700 for the hub shouldn't be a big deal.
14.82 @ 97 mph
Yes if you do not heat it there litterly is NO way to get this on... be my guest and try to find another way.... we dont have a threaded hole in the end of our shafts to get it on by reversing the puller tool like the GTPS do...
Glad to hear you got it on nicly...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Josh F wrote:Yes if you do not heat it there litterly is NO way to get this on... be my guest and try to find another way.... we dont have a threaded hole in the end of our shafts to get it on by reversing the puller tool like the GTPS do...
Well, my supercharger's shaft is threaded and I just put my pulley on today with a Power Steering Pulley Installer. Worked like a charm. Too bad the 2.7" only makes 5.5psi.
i've heard that some require heating and some have gotten it on without. good write up Josh.
I have also noticed a threaded hole in the end of our M45. So is that tp say it should be an easy change?
Phlatcav, if your's is threaded it'll be very simple. Just get a power steering pulley remover to remove the stock pulley, it did absoltely no damage to mine, then use the power steering pulley installer to put the new one on.
i wonder if the last upgraded S/C's came with the threaded shaft??
reason i say is cause i know that GM did one last upgrade to the S/C kits spring of last year and that's the kit i got and my shaft is threaded.
does the 2.7 pulley really only make 5.5 psi if so how much is stock
is it? ahah you F'er ahahah lucky you, then you got it easy and if you got the pulley puller you would only take like 10 min to do all this ahah
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
my stock pulley makes little over 5psi. and the stock pulley i will be using for ever. i wonder if my s/c shaft is threaded. i will have to take a look at that one of these days when i see the car again. (damn winter).
thanks for the info though josh.
no problem man... ahah i have been threw almost every thing with this s/c'er so i know a fiar amount about it...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Mike D. wrote:does the 2.7 pulley really only make 5.5 psi if so how much is stock
Stock I was making 4.5 PSI, with the 2.7" I make between 5 and 5.5 PSI. I have yet to try the 2.6" on my vehicle, though I do have it sitting here.
interesting how everyone's car varys in boost even with the same pulley. i imagine it must have to do with zaust and cat and header and stuff. one of the guys in our club was seeing a solid 6lbs with his stock pulley. i haven't hooked up a guage to mine yet to determine what its doing.
purplezed wrote:interesting how everyone's car varys in boost even with the same pulley. i imagine it must have to do with zaust and cat and header and stuff. one of the guys in our club was seeing a solid 6lbs with his stock pulley. i haven't hooked up a guage to mine yet to determine what its doing.
I'd imagine it would have a good deal to do with the atmospheric pressure in the area/altitude which one lives.
ahhhhh yes that too. we live at sea level here.
I also used the power steering pulley puller to remove the stock pulley (without any damage) and install the 2.7" pulley. I get 6psi unless my boost gauge is fibbing.
Good write-up though.
its all dependant apon your elevation of where you live, temps out side pressure ect...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
