Hello,

I'm posting to find out what kind of oil you guys are using in your boosted rides. I have always changed my oil every 5000km. I have always used a GM Filter and GM Oil. I guess I always did b/c at the time my car was under warranty and I always had the dealer do it.

Now that I have been out of warranty for a while (passed 100,000km) I guess I can stop taking it into the dealer. It was just easier b/c they have drive through oil changes and being in a lowered ride w/body kit, believe me it was easier then doing it myself or having them try and get my car up on the lift which I didnt want them to do.

I reciently S/C'd my car about 2000km ago. I figure since my oil change is coming up real quick that I might switch to mobil 1 or maybe royal purple.

The mileage on my car will be 135,000km. So I mean she does have some miles on her. What would you guys suggest? Is it to late to start running synthetic? I figured since fall is coming and up, and up here in canada we have DAMMM cold winter days at times I figure it would be a little easier on the motor on those cold morning start-ups. My car is a daily driver.

I would run an engine flush then new oil and filter and start doing it myself.

Is synthetic bad for engine seals/gaskets? I currently dont have any oil leaks (knocks on wood) but wouldnt want to cause any. Does it eat gaskets? I think I heard this somewhere but dont know if it's true or not. Has anyone had any problems running synthetic?

Any comments would be appriciated.

Synthetic is always a good idea and it is never to late to start using it. Even more so with the added heat and stress on the engine due to being boosted. It will not cause any leaks. I would highly reccomend changing the oil yourself. I always use the wal-mart brand full synthetic. It is far cheaper than the name brand full synthetic and we all know wal-mart did not start making their own synthetic oil. It is just one of the name brands repackaged. As for the filter I personally like the fram ones with the stuff to grip onto on the casing.

The long and the short of it is how often you change your oil is far more important then the brand of oil and filter. And by the way when you took it to the gm dealership unless you requested a synthetic you got the cheapest stuff they could buy in bulk.

As for your moter just try and plan ahead so you can can let it warm up for a few minutes before driving it. Make sure you are using 5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer and you should be good.



FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

I have always run 5w-30 all year round. I guess when you really think about it. I guess GM would use the cheapest oil they could get in bulk. It has worked every 5000km so far. I just didnt want to chance anything screwing up when I was under warranty. GM oil change, GM tech doing it. They screw something up there held responsible. Not that I'm a goof. I have changed enough oil over the years myself.

But Ill take a look into what synthetics are out there. Probalby be mobile 1 I think but Ill check out the walmart oil along with an engine flush product.

Regards,

mobil 1 is the oil of choice for corvette, viper, all turbo vw's, etc.... its perfectly fine for a boosted cav as well. Synthetics are definitely preferable in a boosted setup because they are less prone to thermal breakdown. Standard oil needs to be changed more often in a turbo setup because the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causes it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow. Either way, bad juju. Synthetic every 3-5K miles is the way to go.




Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

using mobil 1 5w30 in the g/f's s/c eco and in my s/c 2.4 , and mobil 1 10w30 in the gtp

Mobil 1 here, 5w30. No leaks, 166xxx km, boosted over 4 years now.




14.330 @ 96.37mph

I use 15W-50 Mobil 1.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

mobil 1 5w30 since day one and i use it in the race car

They just had a article in Modified mag about different oil types. Synthetics can hold up to more abuse then a conventional oil in the high heat or even track days. I've been using synthitic since I've owned my J (about the 100,000 mile mark) and am now 113,000 with no problems. Cost is another big factor, you want a good oil your gonna pay same with synthetic. Vettes, Vipers, AMG Benzes and the M3 all come standard with synthetic oil.

Check out one of the detailed Amsoil websties about switching to a synthetic oil. Because of the improved viscosity of the Synthetic, gaskets CAN begin to weep out. It doesn't eat the gasket material itself but it can be an issue. Research how all synthetics are NOT equal in thermal breakdown. There are some side by side comparisons on synthetics written by Automotive Engineers. Read a little before you switch. They are not all the same.




"Are you sure your A/F ratio is correct? That hole in your Block custom?"

thanks for the tips oldschool78. I know that it doesnt cause leaks. But as you menioned it may cause weaping. I currently have a clean under body with no oil leaks in site. Which is a good thing for a car with 135,000km on it. Ill do some reasearch on the brands of oils out there. Looks as though most J owners here are mobil 1 fans.

Skilz10179 wrote:I use 15W-50 Mobil 1.

X 2

ive had this in my Z-24 sence 35K.

clock just went past 130K,,, still going stong.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

i use Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30 and change it every 2,000 miles

pennzoil platinum 5-30



Blew it up, build numbers coming soon

5-30 royal purple..altho im not boosted, i am spraying 100 shot quite a bit

I use Mobil 1 5w-30. the type of filter used also can make a difference. I've heard (2nd hand info, but I trust the guy...) that the fram filters use less filter media than the WIX filters (which NAPA repaints as NAPA Gold filters). I've also heard (same guy) that Royal Purple isn't that great. He said he tore down an engine that had had nothing but Royal Purple in it since it had been baught, and it was varnished like hell...
But really:

Quote:

The long and the short of it is how often you change your oil is far more important then the brand of oil and filter. And by the way when you took it to the gm dealership unless you requested a synthetic you got the cheapest stuff they could buy in bulk.

Dealers always try to save money wherever they can, but that oil isn't necessarily all that bad- when the oil company (or distributor) sells bulk quantities, they charge less. that's not even considering the fact that said company doesn't have to pay for packaging on bulk oil- it's just pumped from a truck into a storage tank at the dealership.


LD9 F23 FTW!!

Well yesterday I picked up a 4.4L jug of Mobile 1 5W-30 and a GM filter and a bottle of engine flush. So I'm going to do that tonight.

Question: Can you get the Mobile 1 oil caps for the 2.4L like on the Eco & TRD cav? I think that would kind of a cool add-on.

Question: What is the crank case volume? I think the dealer always put in like 4.2L with empty filter. Or is it 4.4L so it will take the whole bottle. Clarification on this would be great.

Regards,

Found the answer to one of my questions. People say 4 quarts the 2.4L takes

Conversion of 4 quart [US] = 4.404 883 8 liters, so it will take the whole 4.4L jug of mobile 1.

Taetsch Z-24 wrote:

Skilz10179 wrote:I use 15W-50 Mobil 1.

X 2

+1 for turbo, but I'd go lighter on a blown motor.

Here's some info I found on another site:





fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster

mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30

Something you 5W-30 guys may want to think about. The more hp your motor makes, the more heat it makes as well. The hotter a motor oil gets, the thinner it gets. When oil gets thinner your oil pressure will drop, when oil pressure drops parts will fail.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

Once more, 130K... raced sence 36K,, Blown sence 30K..... stock motor........

M-1 15W-50 makes me happy.

Chris


'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08

Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:mobil 1 is the oil of choice for all turbo vw's

not true...

they say Castrol right on the oil cap now-days

seems to be a lot of response to this already, but since i change oil for a living i feel obligated.....
synthetic will NOT eat your gaskets. is is the same as conventional except, becuase conventional is pulled from the ground, there are many impurities in it that can either foam, boil, freeze, microscratch or even cause rust in your engine . synthetic is pure hydrocarbons.

theres no point in switching between 5w and 10w-30 during seasons. in summer heat the are both SAE 30 in viscosity. in winter 5W(inter) is thiner to prevent fit between the small smaces of a cold engine.

ok... off topic. u can use thinner oil to fill up the micro scratches in your cylinder walls from your high miles. it also helps if your running rich cuz you burn more off. however switch to thicker, synthetic oil to help pass smog.



Listen F***ers. FASTERTHANAHONDA is a joke because I WORK FOR HONDA. I'll talk @!#$ about Fords to, that doesn't mean I can beat a 12 second mustang.

Well I got it all done last night. Ran the engine flush for 10 minutes. Drained and put on new filter. Filled up with the whole 4.4L jug (4 quarts) of the mobile 1 5w-30.

I'm sure the engine flush helped clean out the insides a little b/c that oil was BLACK when drained and almost clear now even after taking it for a rip up the highway (figured it would have colored a little from gunk inside the motor but its still nice and clean). Checked the oil again and all is full. It seems to be running a little smoother now, but maybe I'm just imagining things as well.

I'm happy right now and i'm sure my car will love me this winter when it gets down to like -25 to -35 at night and there will be no more cold starts and bang, bang, bangs.

Regards,